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Discussion Starter #81 (Edited)
Toro Wheel Clutches

If there's a topic in this thread that will have the interest of 526/726/826/832/1132 owners it's these wheel clutches.

Specifically, a TSB for getting a solid mesh between the clutch dogs and wheel hub.

Some time during this machine's storied history, a previous owner had an affinity for washer & cotter pin hacks!

You may have noticed earlier that there was a rusty piece of 1/8" stock being used to get more throw on the linkage.

^^^ It worked for the most part however that's a shoulder bolt that centers the traction assembly in the chassis holes. I don't recommend this fix.


it probably would've worked better if they didn't use a cotter pin to hold the pivot bracket to the engagement rod :laugh:

^^^ i replaced that with a 3/16" clevis pin from TSC.

They also jammed a washer in the bottom part of the bearing carrier.

^^^ They were on the right track however I don't recommend doing this either since it makes the bearing carrier loose!

I made some shims out of that 1/8" stock, cleaned and coated with Amsoil MPHD.


Bolted on top of the bearing carrier:


I can't take credit for this idea...it's been floating around SBF for quite some time.

cleaned out the clutch dog assembly (very similar to what's in an outboard lower unit).


Slopped up with waterproof wheel bearing grease & assembled:


Solid engage/disengage on both sides:


Eventually I need to repair these keyways as well as the clutch/hub rounding.
 

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This is a lot of skilled work. My hat to you !!! Working on getting a powershift 1028 soon.
Will loook up to 2 for advice.

Keep up the good work.
 

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If there's a topic in this thread that will have the interest of 526/726/826/832/1132 owners it's these wheel clutches.

Specifically, a TSB for getting a solid mesh between the clutch dogs and wheel hub.

Some time during this machine's storied history, a previous owner had an affinity for washer & cotter pin hacks!

You may have noticed earlier that there was a rusty piece of 1/8" stock being used to get more throw on the linkage.

^^^ It worked for the most part however that's a shoulder bolt that centers the traction assembly in the chassis holes. I don't recommend this fix.


it probably would've worked better if they didn't use a cotter pin to hold the pivot bracket to the engagement rod :laugh:

^^^ i replaced that with a 3/16" clevis pin from TSC.

They also jammed a washer in the bottom part of the bearing carrier.

^^^ They were on the right track however I don't recommend doing this either since it makes the bearing carrier loose!

I made some shims out of that 1/8" stock, cleaned and coated with Amsoil MPHD.


Bolted on top of the bearing carrier:


I can't take credit for this idea...it's been floating around SBF for quite some time.

cleaned out the clutch dog assembly (very similar to what's in an outboard lower unit).


Slopped up with waterproof wheel bearing grease & assembled:


Solid engage/disengage on both sides:


Eventually I need to repair these keyways as well as the clutch/hub rounding.
BROTHER C.C Check out where those Bearing were made. :eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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Discussion Starter #84
BROTHER C.C Check out where those Bearing were made. :eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
Manitou Mfg Co. Direct from the "Frozen Tundra".

It looks like they're still in business!

That's a $37 part on partstree :eek: I wonder if Manitou still supplies them.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I also ordered some tiny teflon washers (Briggs 4184) for the emulsion tube seat...this is to prevent them from leaking into the lower intake and onto your garage/shed floor. For some reason, you can't buy these separate but with a set of 10 roll-pins.

In an effort to stop this engine from markin' her spot (with fuel!) I installed a teflon washer at the base of the emulsion tube (there is a Briggs TSB for this fix.)

When you get the pack of roll pins & washers, you'll swear that they only shipped roll-pins! The washers will probably be stuck to the side of the bag.


It fits really tight to the emulsion tube...in fact, I ruined the 1st one trying to get it on. Carefully use tweezers to get it on and walk it down the emulsion tube.


I ran it this afternoon and parked it...so far so good.

The top-half of the carb body is warped pretty bad (right above the low-speed jet)...I think this is also fairly common; you can't dress it flat like you can the bottom half so I doubled-up the gasket and stopped that drip as well.

Have a nice weekend folks and stay warm!
 

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Sadly for me I can no longer use an arc welder; gas weld yes, but no arc welding anymore due to the toy in my chest.

Hopefully when/if I get the new snow mule I will be able to remove all the parts- wheels, auger shafts, augers, auger bearings and impeller without too much trouble to slop on the never sieze, load the tires and install the snow chains and clean the hex shaft and readjust the location of the traction tire to slow down the first speed.

Yes wifey; I would not be here according to my cardiac witch doctor- she hates it when I call him that 😂.
 

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Sadly for me I can no longer use an arc welder; gas weld yes, but no arc welding anymore due to the toy in my chest.

Hopefully when/if I get the new snow mule I will be able to remove all the parts- wheels, auger shafts, augers, auger bearings and impeller without too much trouble to slop on the never sieze, load the tires and install the snow chains and clean the hex shaft and readjust the location of the traction tire to slow down the first speed.

Yes wifey; I would not be here according to my cardiac witch doctor- she hates it when I call him that 😂.
your not alone,
 
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