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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
From NW of Boston…visit this forum every week for years. I don’t know very much about fixing motorized equipment-so don’t post suggestions, but do enjoy reading the posts—and the banter between many of you.

Have a 2008 Honda HS1132 Trackdrive, it has been very reliable for me. Do regular maintenance on it, oil, spark plug, also (done twice) replaced both auger bearings, the impeller shaft bearing, and both belts….had to take the bucket off-went surprisingly well. Someone on this forum welded up the bucket skid brackets a few years ago for me-he did a great job!

Snowstorm yesterday, while blowing the driveway, everything was seemingly working well…then the drive system ‘failed’. Just stopped moving. I wear earplugs, I did not hear any grinding noise, no jerky movements etc. It just stopped moving forward. On a very steep driveway.

Once I got it back in the garage, I went to this forum, and searched for HS1132 and drive issues. Found many great posts-went back to the garage, and started going down the list.

The machine/engine was cool.

Checked the hydrostatic fluid level. Was midway between the high and low.
(I did not removed cap & the cup).

I moved the engaged / release lever, it moved a shaft which moved in and out (of the transmission?).

Removed the chute, the headlight, and the pulley/belt cover. At first glance I thought that perhaps the belt had stretched….but I started the engine, and safely engaged the drive lever:
the large wheel driven pulley spun;
the axle going to both the left and right tracks spun in both forward and reverse.

Turned engine off; then I lifted the back end off the ground… so supported on the bucket scraper bar, and on the black piece of metal on the very back bottom…so I could move the tracks. I spun the right side….and the left side track spun with it (they both moved/spun).

Does this mean that the axle pin(s) are broken? Or hopefully there is something easier to check and then fix?

Would draining the hydrostatic system (checking for air bubbles) be a likely fix?

Before this breakdown, was hoping to keep this snowblower because it has worked well for me….and honestly, newer products seem so complicated….I worry about fixing/having them fixed in 5 years; or 10 years. This snowblower was bought new in 2008.

Suggestions? Thoughts?
Thank you very much !

· Premium GOT Member
10,961 Posts
You checked all the right things.
The clue is that the with the drive handle down the hydro tranny shafts are moving forward and reverse???

Sounds like something broke in the final drive gearbox ( right side tranny ) case I had the pins on the sprocket drive wheels both broke at the same time.
rare as bigfoot but possible.

· Registered
1,131 Posts
Spinning the track yielding both tracks to turn doesnt mean your HSS pin is fine, both side of tracks are connected via the driveshaft and the pins through the drive sprockets. The HSS pin is what gets the power from the HST to the tracks. One way to confirm if the HSS is sheared is to lift the machine, put the HST drive lever to "engage" then try to spin the tracks or just try to move the machine with lever set to "engage" if it moves as it would if the lever was in "disengage" then the HSS pin is done.

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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Orangputeh, and JnC… [Besides the issue with my broken snow blower—my Mom is in her mid 90s…I had planned on clearing the snow, driving to her home, buying some warm socks with her, taking her to the library, and cooking up some chili for dinner—and enjoying the time with her. When HS1132 died in the middle of my steep driveway(couldn’t get vehicle around it), I realized that todays plans would have to be cancelled. Calling her to cancel brought tears to my eyes.].

Thanks for helping narrow down the problem area.
Likely the “HSS” axle (the axle with the pins), tracks move with lever set “engaged”
or something else in the “final drive gearbox (right side tranny)”.

I have ‘some’ mechanical skills (can follow directions). Perhaps I should attempt to take the drivetrain apart-are any specialized tools beyond standard wrenches, and pliers needed?
Should the parts come off easily, or is there a high risk on breaking the parts when removing them? Thinking about the tracks, and geared wheels, etc in particular. Perhaps 2 hours time? After apart, figure out which parts need replacement/modifications, then —-are the likely parts available?

If the “HSS” axle with pins is the problem, can the broken pins be drilled out and replaced?
Have access to a home grade but large drill press, could this work? Or would a machinist have to do it? Special pins? Are the heat-fitted into the axle? Is HSS axle with pins available? Cost? Is there a reasonably good chance of me successfully fixing this 15 year old HS1132?

Just remembered that I did have another Honda snowblower from the 1990’s… perhaps a HS928…also had tracks and hydrostatic system. That snowblower also stopped moving….but it failed slowly, had to fiddle with the forward/reverse lever, and some grinding noises….over the course of 2 days, it finally stopped. The dealer said that their repair department had a backlog—would take 3 or 4 weeks, and we had multiple expected snow storms….(and my parents were coming to visit for a long week or two…) so I ‘had’ to buy a new snowblower in 2008…this HS1132.

My driveway is very steep, and longer than average driveway in the NW of Boston area. Perhaps this was the added stress causing the drivetrain failure…in two HS1132 Trac snowblowers.

How durable are the newer Honda Track snowblowers?
Are there some models which should be avoided? Some which are good contenders? Buying new with full warranty. I know that I have asked many questions—-thanks. It is appreciated.

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1,367 Posts
I fixed mine, but it was in the off season and there was a bit of a learning curve. It's not an afternoon job for a first timer.

The countershaft in the right transmission/ "gearbox" was the part that failed in my 1132.

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1,131 Posts
Might as well do a small service on the unit while you are at it.

Font Auto part Parallel Engineering Line art

1) Shut the fuel valve so no more fuel goes in the carb.
2) Drain the oil, this way you can put fresh oil in it when you go back to use the machine after doing the service.
3) Make sure to put the ignition key somewhere with a note that the engine needs new oil before being used again, trust me on this one.
4) Once oil is drained tip the machine all the way up so it is standing on the bucket.
5) Loosing the two M10 (Part 18) track tension bolts, you can take them all the way out if needed.
6) This will loosen the tracks, take the tracks off of the sprockets and the rear guide wheels.
7) Take off the cotter pins (part 20), there are two on either side holding the sprocket and guide wheels in place.
8) Remove the clevis pins (12 and 13).
9) Remove the washers from the back guide wheels (10).
10) Remove sprockets and guide wheels. The clevis pins might be stuck in there, if you are lucky they can come out with some PB blaster etc.
11) Behind front sprocket there is a fat washer (19), this one would be different in thickness from the one you took off from the back guide wheel, keep it separate.
12) Remove collar (16).
13) Behind the guide wheels once they are removed there is another washer (10) and a collar (14), remove those two from either side, the collar in the back is different than the ones in the front.
14) At this point you are ready to remove the height adjustment and track bracket (5) off. Remove the three M6 (21) bolts, they retain the bearing holder.
15) Also remove the M8 bolt that goes through the track bracket and the foot pedal (Part 8 in picture below along with its washer 6).
16) Once removed the whole bracket (5) should come off.
17) Remove the track tension rod (6), you dont need to do anything to the bolt (17), just make sure to keep the washers (11) on the rods threaded pieces, set aside. Along with tension plate (9)
18) Once the track brackets are removed from both sides you should be able to take off the height adjustment pedal (Part 2, below) after removing bolt ( 3), washers and collar( 4, 5, 7, below). Keep the orientation of the washer and collar in mind when putting them back.

At this point you should have the driveshaft and the naked chassis in front of you. The driveshaft would still have the two bearings on it, clean up the driveshaft as much you can and see if you can remove the bearings, if not you may have to cut them off depending on the age of the machine.

19) Once the bearings are removed there are small metal rings (15, above) one on either side, remove them.
20) Remove the clevis pin and cotter pin thats remaining on the driveshaft. This clevis pin looks similar to the one that you removed earlier from the rear guide wheels.

Font Auto part Automotive exterior Art Line art

Now you are ready to take off the right transmission

Organism Font Line Auto part Plant

1) Remove the three M6 bolts (13), from the left chassis plate (7), you are removing the ones for the driveshaft bearing hold and not the one for the bearing hold for the Hydro).
2) On the right side of the chassis you need to remove the plate (6). Go around it there should be M8 bolts on the top, two of them, 4 in the back that screw through the chassis plate 8 and 4.
3) From the front half you'll be removing the M8 bolts (16), these are different in length. The three on the side and one on the bottom are easy to remove, for the top one you will need to remove the plastic belt cover.
4) Take off the belt tension cover (5) by removing the two M6 (13) bolts.
5) Remove the 2 M8 nuts that hold the belt tension mechanism in place as well (not pictured above but at this point they will be the only two left on the chassis plate beside the M6 bolts that hold the right reduction gearbox in place.

After all the above has been done you should be able to take off the gearbox.

Open it, clean and inspect the inside and report back.

I am in Bedford, MA, if you need the HSS drive pin, I have plenty, get in touch with me we'll figure out a time when you can stop by and grab it, good luck.

My direction above is from memory so please excuse me if I missed something, I'd be surprised if I didnt lol.

Directions and details on how to put everything back together can be found in the thread below.


· Premium GOT Member
10,961 Posts
To avoid confusion your 1132 is a HS model . not a HSS.

Assuming you checked the sprocket wheel shear pins are intack , I believe the pin broke on your drive axle or the countershaft is not engaging. ( common failure also )

I have seen cases where when you lift machine to test it works fine but it won't drive when on ground because of the load/weight.

First time i did this job it took 8 hours. mainly because of rust and corrosion removing bearings etc. Have done about 10 and if lucky can do it in about 4 hours.

There is an excellent video ( to go along with JnC's written instructions ) on You Tube.
Called HS1132 Won't Drive or something like that. About 7 and half minutes.

Be sure to inspect the gears carefully. I highly recommend changing the countershaft ( $22 ) and plastic bushings. Inspect bearings .

You can replace pin. Donyboy73 has a video on this. Personally I would rather buy a new axle. About $100USD. When you open this it's best to do it right because of all the work. The parts are expensive. A shop around here charges about $500-600 for this repair. About half parts and half labor.

If you have reasonable mechanical skills it is doable.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Orangputeh, JnC, Contender, and Honda1132,
Sorry for my delay in updating the status on my broken HS1132. Started to disassemble…some nuts & bolts are seized - I quickly figured out the reality of the situation:
*it is snowing now with more snow expected in the near future;
*I have very limited experience working on power machinery;
*it is an older machine;
*unheated work area (garage-which usually is home to my car);
*uncertainty of availability (and shipping time) of the needed Honda replacement parts;
*driveway is very long and steep;
*if this repair takes experienced mechanics like you four, with all the correct parts, tools, work area, etc., 4+ hours…;
*I want to continue (help) caring for my 92 year old Mom who lives in a different town;

= this is a repair project; I need a working snowblower now.
Surely there are many great snowblowers made by a number of good companies; while I have owned only two snowblowers in my life, both Honda HS1132s–both which died with the same/similar problem…the gearbox gears, & pinned axle, they each provided over a decade of reliable service clearing a long steep driveway … I will be getting a current version delivered to my home tomorrow. I will be continuing the HS1132 repair project…continuing disassembly, ordering the parts, and assembling when the weather is warmer. Either will keep as a backup, or will (hopefully) donate it to someone who is in need of a good snowblower & appreciates older machinery.
I really do appreciate the help and guidance you & the forum have given me. I will be asking additional questions in the near future as the repair project continues. btw, JnC, my Mom lives in Bedford MA.
Thanks again,

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1,131 Posts
No worries, we are here to help.

BTW went through something similar yesterday with my neighbors machine, he has an HS828 I rebuilt for him a few years ago. One of the workers managed to chew two gears in the gearbox yesterday. I had feared the HSS pin on the driveshaft was gone but that was intact.

If you have some basic tools you can get to the guts in a couple of hours. Here is how his machine looks like after emergency surgery yesterday, parts have been ordered, 2 gear set with a new driveshaft, they should be here some time this week if not early next week through

Photograph White Black Road surface Asphalt

· Premium GOT Member
10,961 Posts
Just make sure you get the correct parts for a HS1132 with using your serial number for reference.

Glad you have a machine coming. this repair can be daunting the first time. The trick is to be patient and triple check everything when reassmbling. especially the washers.

I heeded JnC's advice several years ago and assembled the gearcase to the side of engine bed and testing it before installing the whole thing onto the machine. That can save a lot of time if you have to reopen the box to redo something.
I use a long screwdriver in the axle hole to turn the gears. if smooth then you know it is okay. You can also do it the way and test it as shown in the video on You-tube "HS1132 Won't Drive"

I also install a grease zerk and practically use a whole cannister of marine water resistant grease pumped in after reinstall. That is of course up to you. Most people just fill the gearbox up with grease when assembling.

good luck.
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