Snowblower Forum banner

1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The machine it is on is a Husqvarna 14527E and it is an American made motor. This machine is under built and over powered eats auger belts and I don't push it. This is what happened I went out and started it always started two pulls. Never used electric start only to test it. The motor has been the best part. I started it the other day and was making sure the auger was going to turn and don't remember if I throttled down or what I was doing. But the motor backfired and quit. I haven't checked the fly wheel or the valves yet. But with the e start it will turn over and stop. With the recoil if I pull it pass the compression point it will do the same thing. I am assuming the fly wheel key sheared but what would cause the there was not load. Except in engaging the auger. I ran for at least 10 minutes and move fine. Just wondering two things what would cause this and where to start. I am thinking the fly wheel because I pulled the plug wire and it seemed to turn over OK. It is kind of a blur I was a little tick off this machine has less than 50 hours on it. it also seems to be pushing out of the carb. I couldn't feel any air coming out of the exhaust either. My body is failing me that is why I am asking before digging in normally I would just tear it apart and figure it out. I used an old MTD to finish. They don't make them like they used to!!!
Thanks in advance for any reply's
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,830 Posts
Sorry, I'm not 100% clear on the symptoms.

Is the electric starter able to turn the engine normally? Is the pull starter able to turn it normally?

In both cases, it turns, but won't start?

A backfire *can* shear a flywheel key, especially if the flywheel nut was under-torqued. If the engine can rotate normally, and has compression, but won't start, then I'd agree that a sheared flywheel key could cause that.

At least check for spark before tearing into the engine, if it's turning normally.

If you're not feeling any air from the exhaust, though, you might have an exhaust valve problem. Bent exhaust pushrod, broken rocker arm, etc. Removing the valve cover (I'm assuming OHV) and watching the valves while turning the engine would tell you a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Sorry, I'm not 100% clear on the symptoms.

Is the electric starter able to turn the engine normally? Is the pull starter able to turn it normally?

In both cases, it turns, but won't start?

A backfire *can* shear a flywheel key, especially if the flywheel nut was under-torqued. If the engine can rotate normally, and has compression, but won't start, then I'd agree that a sheared flywheel key could cause that.

At least check for spark before tearing into the engine, if it's turning normally.

If you're not feeling any air from the exhaust, though, you might have an exhaust valve problem. Bent exhaust pushrod, broken rocker arm, etc. Removing the valve cover (I'm assuming OHV) and watching the valves while turning the engine would tell you a lot.
No neither starter will turn the motor over unless I pull very hard. Then it puffs out of the air intake. I have never sheared a fly wheel key on anything ever. But it seems like a common problem. I should be able to get at it later this week. Thanks I will check those first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,830 Posts
Pulling the spark plug, then trying the starters, will help confirm that you're fighting compression, and not something else.

If your exhaust valve isn't opening at all, your compression during starting will be really high, since the compression release won't function. That'll make it quite a bit harder to turn. And it would be consistent with what you're describing, with no air from the exhaust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
As RedOctobyr was alluding to, pull the valve cover off and make sure both rocker arms are moving up and down. It is very rare to shear a flywheel key on a snow blower motor. I also say you probably have a valve problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
As RedOctobyr was alluding to, pull the valve cover off and make sure both rocker arms are moving up and down. It is very rare to shear a flywheel key on a snow blower motor. I also say you probably have a valve problem.
Thanks I will look at valves first. Just seems weird that it was running fine and then not. I did see a video about these motors they have a pin that is permanently connected to the cam shaft that hold a small spring and lever to open the decompression. If it breaks you have to get a new cam shaft. This motor doesn't have that many hours on it I bought it because it was a Briggs. made in the U.S as far as the rest of the blower is concerned the controls on top are nice but the auger is small and doesn't pick up snow well. Throws it 50 ft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,830 Posts
If you wanted a sense of whether the exhaust valve is able to open, you could loosen the spark plug in the threads. That might act as a crude compression release. Leave the plug wire disconnected, you don't want it to actually start like this.

Then see if you can get the engine to turn, and if so, feel for air coming out the exhaust. If air comes out, that's good, the valve is functioning.

Heck, maybe you got lucky and the rocker arm adjuster loosened itself, messing with the function of the valve. Or maybe a pushrod bent. Something cheap and easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
If you wanted a sense of whether the exhaust valve is able to open, you could loosen the spark plug in the threads. That might act as a crude compression release. Leave the plug wire disconnected, you don't want it to actually start like this.

Then see if you can get the engine to turn, and if so, feel for air coming out the exhaust. If air comes out, that's good, the valve is functioning.

Heck, maybe you got lucky and the rocker arm adjuster loosened itself, messing with the function of the valve. Or maybe a pushrod bent. Something cheap and easy.
I will be working on this tomorrow but I did disconnect the plug and pulled it over and it didn't rip the cord out of my had but it did seem to pull hard. I just hope it isn't a problem with the cam. I was reading they had some problems with the decompression release on the cam shaft. But when I reconnected the plug it rip out of my hand. I haven't had much luck with this blower it is newer than 2010 I think I bought it 3 years ago. I will do a review. I needed a blower late in the season I only had a small window to use my neighbors van and pick one up. I have had a Husqvarna lawn tractor never had any problems. So I thought the snow blowers would be as good a quality. Not the case in this model.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
951 Posts
Sounds like timing, and you are getting spark too early, thus counter rotation pulling the starter cord out of your hand, and blowing back out the intake (essentially, if fires the entire intake . . .). Points back to flywheel key again . . .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Sounds like timing, and you are getting spark too early, thus counter rotation pulling the starter cord out of your hand, and blowing back out the intake (essentially, if fires the entire intake . . .). Points back to flywheel key again . . .
This is what I found so far 1 broken rod on the exhaust valve and a bent rod on intake. They are made of aluminum there goes my bias toward B&S. The parts list shows to Tappets on the bottom are these going to be gone and I have to open up the case to find them or will they be sitting there just waiting for me to insert rod. I have never had a problem with any of my equipment having any problems with the valves. I ordered 2 sets of rods. I might just buy a new machine isn't that what they make credit cards for. Fix this one when I have time and buy some thing for under 2 grand that has all controls on top and plenty of power. My friend has 2 MTD's he has had for 12 years and never had a problem with them. One is a 30". I just changed the belts and they were still in good shape went through the entire machine everything thing was fine. Maybe that is the way to go. I just need the distance throw. They don't make stuff like they used to that is for sure.:icon_cussing_black:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I do Arboist work

This is what I found so far 1 broken rod on the exhaust valve and a bent rod on intake. They are made of aluminum there goes my bias toward B&S. The parts list shows to Tappets on the bottom are these going to be gone and I have to open up the case to find them or will they be sitting there just waiting for me to insert rod. I have never had a problem with any of my equipment having any problems with the valves. I ordered 2 sets of rods. I might just buy a new machine isn't that what they make credit cards for. Fix this one when I have time and buy some thing for under 2 grand that has all controls on top and plenty of power. My friend has 2 MTD's he has had for 12 years and never had a problem with them. One is a 30". I just changed the belts and they were still in good shape went through the entire machine everything thing was fine. Maybe that is the way to go. I just need the distance throw. They don't make stuff like they used to that is for sure.:icon_cussing_black:
Just wanted to add on to this that I am a now part time Arborist and do some logging I love 2 stroke motors just so much simpler I have a 21" lawn boy with a 4hp 2 stroke I start it at least once a year and it always runs perfect. Just wanted to throw that out there. I don't know why just a RANT!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,830 Posts
On my Tecumseh, the pushrods are aluminum, as I recall. I assume this is for lower reciprocating mass, to avoid valvetrain trouble at higher RPM.

They fact that both are damaged seems a bit concerning. If just one failed due to bad luck, I wouldn't have assumed the other would also fail at the same time. Unless one could hit the other?

But with both damaged, I wonder if something else might have contributed to that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
On my Tecumseh, the pushrods are aluminum, as I recall. I assume this is for lower reciprocating mass, to avoid valvetrain trouble at higher RPM.

They fact that both are damaged seems a bit concerning. If just one failed due to bad luck, I wouldn't have assumed the other would also fail at the same time. Unless one could hit the other?

But with both damaged, I wonder if something else might have contributed to that?
My thoughts exactly!!! Unless the other bent when I was trying to restart it and it pulled the recoil out of my hand. I will check the fly wheel to be sure of that. Also there are 2 tappets at the bottom of those will they still be there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Also there are 2 tappets at the bottom of those will they still be there?
If the camshaft hasn't broken, the lifters will still be in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,830 Posts
I'd have a hard time believing a kick-back during starting could bend pushrods.

It's a violent event for your shoulder, but the camshaft is still turning much much slower than during operation. So I'd think it's still fairly gentle on the pushrods.

I can't speak for the tappets at the bottom. I'd hope they're still there, I guess. I've removed pushrods, and they went together fine, but there wasn't a violent failure.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
951 Posts
Not sure if it's possible in your engine, but if OHV, almost sounds like it somehow jumped valve timing and the piston hit the valves . . . I'm really struggling to think of anything else that could take out both rods . . .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks You

Thank you everyone we will see what happens I order an extra set just in case. I have worked on just about everything on every motor never ran into a valve problem like this. I will let you know what happens.
Thanks again these forums are a super resource!!
Ted A.K.A. Oldackonoak
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Not sure if it's possible in your engine, but if OHV, almost sounds like it somehow jumped valve timing and the piston hit the valves . . . I'm really struggling to think of anything else that could take out both rods . . .
I don't think the piston could hit the push rods they both have their own casing they run through. I don't think any thing could hit them they seem to be protected. And I can't think of the correct word for what I trying to say it's like a 3/8" tube.
Thanks for the input every thought is greatly appreciated !!
Ted
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,431 Posts
I don't think the piston could hit the push rods they both have their own casing they run through. I don't think any thing could hit them they seem to be protected. And I can't think of the correct word for what I trying to say it's like a 3/8" tube.
Thanks for the input every thought is greatly appreciated !!
Ted
Its not too difficult to remove the head from a Briggs OHV engine. After reading what you found with the pushrods, I would be inclined to pull the head and check to see if valves are damaged and that the close and seal properly.

I have a briggs 305CC snow engine on my 2008 machine and it has the symptoms of a broken compression release gizzmo on the cam shaft, very hard to pull over manually, but still starts with the electric start. Breaking that compression release device (from what I have read its not an uncommon problem) by itself, should not keep the engine from starting
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
951 Posts
I don't think the piston could hit the push rods they both have their own casing they run through. I don't think any thing could hit them they seem to be protected. And I can't think of the correct word for what I trying to say it's like a 3/8" tube.
Thanks for the input every thought is greatly appreciated !!
Ted
I was thinking more piston to valve contact, and the push rods being the weak link in the chain . . . As others have noted, I think pulling the head would be a good idea as well . . .

- Tim
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top