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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Every time we took the dog for a walk, we would walk past this mechanical beast sitting by the curb.
I swear it followed me home! It has an 8 horse B & S, with the weirdest carb I have ever seen.
Here's what I know about it.
Yes, I did get it running.
Engine Model Type code
1904024014 01 79072612

Chassis model serial #
15-8261 E 001029

Questions I have for anyone out there:
1) Any idea where I can get a manual?
2) Carb rebuild kit
3) Strange as it seems, I cannot get the wheels off the axles (Yes, I pulled the pins. They can't possibly be rusted on that tight!
4) How do you check for an accurate oil lever in the impeller gearbox?
5) Roughly how old is this beast (or maybe should I even ask)?
 

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Pictures help
 

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Discussion Starter #4
#1) The best shot of the carb I can get without pulling off the shroud.
#2) The pin is out of the hub, what else is holding the wheel on the axle? It will not budge, even with heat on both sides of wheel.
#3) Engine numbers
#4) Chassis ID
#5) 26" Atlas snow thrower
#6) Controls
 

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Discussion Starter #5
At the very least, I was hoping someone would give me the trick on removing the wheel (simple as it sounds). I have tried a port-a-power behind the wheel to no advantage and jury-rigged a wheel puller on the outside with the same results. If I didn't know better, I would swear that the wheel is threaded on the axle shaft! Same with both sides, although I could be happy just removing the left side wheel. At least that way, I could disengage the wheel from the axle. This thing is a bear to turn when the axle drives both wheels!

I cannot believe it is rusted that soundly!
 

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Who put that brand new tire on the rim, you?

Not unusual to have a rim rust welded on an axle. A rust weld is almost as good as a regular weld . .. weasel piss, puller, light taps, usually heat also, but a little hard with that brand new tire on already.... repeat, soak, let sit crank the puller, light taps, repeat, repeat.... plenty patience ... it will come off .... once off, emery it up good, both rim and axle , and smear on Never-seize.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yup, I put tires on the rims. I had no choice. The previous set was reminiscent of Death Valley with cracks permeating almost every square inch of the sidewalls. Your prognosis is what my plan has always been. I just couldn't imagine anything else holding the rim on the axle.
Thanks for your support. I feel a whole lot better.
 

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Yeah, it would have been easier with no tire on rim until you fixed the frozen rim issue. Bouncing or pulling on rubber loses the shock effect, as well as not getting heat to the rim. You might want to take the tires back off.

Be careful tapping, you don't want to be smashing the gears, bushings inside the housing back and forth.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm liking everything you're saying. For the record, the new tires went on after I gave up using heat on the rims. Now that the tires are on rims, I've reconsidered 'giving up'. Thanks oneacer for your confirmation. I was convinced I wasn't seeing something that held the rims on.
 

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Welcome to SBF Old Fossil. The Briggs date code indicates the motor is a 1979 (79072612). Here is a link to the engine service manual. It covers all flat head motors, so only follow the sections related to your 190000 model.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Me thinks I'll have to use the 'gas wrench' and torch this #*@+ off. Notice the port-a-power behind the rim. I welded a pair of 7/16' nuts on the nose of the rim so the gear puller would have something to grab on to. I heated the nose of the rim as well as the backside, then put the impact wrench on the gear puller..................NOTHING! I still can't believe it rusted to the axle this bad.

Now to locate another rim...........
IMG_20200902_155821235.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Anyone have a rim they could part with?
I don't want to torch this sucker off until I have a replacement.
Until I find a replacement wheel, I have delved into my favorite book: 'The Gospel according to MacGyver'. I have a Plan 'B'.
There will be an update tomorrow, good or bad.
 

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might be difficult to find a good used one. one that is not rusted to the axle will also likely be on a nice machine. have you tried heating up the center real good and then trying to spin the rim on the axle? you may even need to squeeze the torch in on the back side. i am pretty sure there is usually a small hollow area in the center of the rim where you will never be able to get the heat fully. might also need to grid down the end of the axle to get it off. might have mushroomed a bit.
 

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I would first spray weasel piss in the bolt hole and both ends of the shaft real good, and let it sit over night with tension on the puller .... tomorrow start tapping the rim lightly, and try to draw the puller a little, ... be carful not to damage the axle. Then maybe apply some heat, apply more weasel piss, and draw in again on the puller, all the while tapping the rim lightly. ..... Now its a matter of principle to get it off in one piece ... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Revelation tonight! While not successful in removing the wheel, a bit of education came down the pike.
image #1 I had previously welded a pair of large nuts 7/16" (180 degrees apart) on the outer nose of the wheel hub to which a gear puller could grab on to. Notice the 'duckbill' porta-power attachment behind the wheel. Heating (with the torch) the inner AND outer hub of the wheel would not break the wheel loose (from the rust) from the axle.

#2 So, I welded two grade 8 washers together around the edges, then welded a 9/16" grade 8 nut to the washers. I then used the impact wrench on the grade 8 bolt after heating the inner and outer hubs with the torch. No such luck with this attempt. At this point, I then used a mic to measure the diameter of the axle shat behind the wheel. It read .885".

#3 Removing a wheel from a 10-year-old MTD unit that has served us exceptionally well, I measured the inside diameter of the wheel. It was .750" and smaller in diameter.

#4 I then noticed a plastic sleeve inside the hub that slid out. It was corrugated in the inside.

#5 Removing the sleeve from the wheel hub, I measured the inside diameter of the MTD wheel. It was a few thousands over .885"! Here I learned two things:
A) When MTD bought out Atlas T & M, they learned real quick the issue of bonded by rust. Reducing the axle size may have saved some manufacturing costs, but inserting a non-metallic sleeve in the wheel all but eliminated the rusting of the two components. (At least it sounds good to me).
B) I just need to locate a wheel from any MTD snowthrower over the past 15 years. At least I won't have to pry it off! Now, if I could just stop these machines from following me home.........

I'm not cutting off the existing wheel until I find a replacement for it, but man am I looking forward to removing it IN PIECES with a 'gas wrench'!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It was ugly, but successful. I must admit, I still cannot believe I was unable to remove the wheel intact before it came to this. Now I just need to locate a replacement wheel so I can get this beast out of here! Does anyone have an extra rim?
 

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