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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, all!


Just got myself a post season 824, and have naturally read all I could find about Powershift transmissions, bearing replacements, impeller mods, lube types and whats not. No doubt I'll be back with a slew of questions as I get to know the quirks and details of it, but for now I'm only wondering about one thing - the model year.


According to model and serial number (38543 9001054), and small skids at the far back of the bucket, it's definitely an '89. However, it has also serrated augers, that according to this forum were introduced in 1996. Perhaps retrofitted?


Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
1990, cool. Thanks.



Does that mean that the skid bracket welding issues on the '88 and '89 models, as mentioned in the brilliant history thread, would be resolved on this one?
 

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Is that starter set up for 220 volt operation? The solenoid and electrical connector look European. Or Scandinavian in your case :devil:


.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, I've brought it back to my house and gone over it.

On the positive side
- starts easily and reliably, governor works well
- good engine oil color and level, PO claims to have changed oil regularly
- drive chain well oiled
- new drive engage wire
- auger engage wire works smoothly
- gear shifts are very smooth, no binding or 'gumminess'
- no significant rust, only superficial
- relatively new belts
- snow chains
- very good tires that hold the air
- no play in the auger bearings
- serrated augers!

Challenges
- impeller bushing in absolute tatters
- big longitudinal play in the auger drive shaft
- worn impeller and impeller housing, with large paddle clearance (1/4")
- immense drive chain play, at least an inch
- powershift lock maladjusted, will not free the powershift
- slight idle hunting
- fair amount of play/slop in the gear selector mechanism (bolts/bushings under the dash)

To do, in order of importance
- replace impeller bearing
- replace auger oil
- regrease transmission and if necessary replace input bearing
- adjust drive chain tension
- adjust power shift cable
- adjust, lube and tighten up gear selector, chute assembly, drive belt, auger belt
- check and if necessary (very probably) adjust valve clearance
- adjust carb/governor setup
- change engine oil
- install fuel filter
- fluid film the heck out of it


@Kiss4aFrog: This is the setup. I assume it is 240 Volts, as the blower was sold new in Norway. PO has not used it the ten years he owned it, nor did he have the cable. He did not even know about the Powershift function ...
 

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So, I've brought it back to my house and gone over it.

On the positive side
- starts easily and reliably, governor works well
- good engine oil color and level, PO claims to have changed oil regularly
- drive chain well oiled
- new drive engage wire
- auger engage wire works smoothly
- gear shifts are very smooth, no binding or 'gumminess'
- no significant rust, only superficial
- relatively new belts
- snow chains
- very good tires that hold the air
- no play in the auger bearings
- serrated augers!

Challenges
- impeller bushing in absolute tatters
- big longitudinal play in the auger drive shaft
- worn impeller and impeller housing, with large paddle clearance (1/4")
- immense drive chain play, at least an inch
- powershift lock maladjusted, will not free the powershift
- slight idle hunting
- fair amount of play/slop in the gear selector mechanism (bolts/bushings under the dash)

To do, in order of importance
- replace impeller bearing
- replace auger oil
- regrease transmission and if necessary replace input bearing
- adjust drive chain tension
- adjust power shift cable
- adjust, lube and tighten up gear selector, chute assembly, drive belt, auger belt
- check and if necessary (very probably) adjust valve clearance
- adjust carb/governor setup
- change engine oil
- install fuel filter
- fluid film the heck out of it


@Kiss4aFrog: This is the setup. I assume it is 240 Volts, as the blower was sold new in Norway. PO has not used it the ten years he owned it, nor did he have the cable. He did not even know about the Powershift function ...
What in the Name of ZEUS is a Drive Engage wire. Is that something the over seas units get that I know nothing about???????????
 

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Post some Pics of the inside of the impeller area. Because those impellers run tight to the cylinder walls. :eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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Hello, all!


Just got myself a post season 824, and have naturally read all I could find about Powershift transmissions, bearing replacements, impeller mods, lube types and whats not. No doubt I'll be back with a slew of questions as I get to know the quirks and details of it, but for now I'm only wondering about one thing - the model year.


According to model and serial number (38543 9001054), and small skids at the far back of the bucket, it's definitely an '89. However, it has also serrated augers, that according to this forum were introduced in 1996. Perhaps retrofitted?


Any thoughts?
I never noticed this before they either ran a different gear box in the early years. or It was changed out that explains why there are those serrated blades on there.:eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
@POWERSHIFT93,


With drive engagement wire I mean the one in the pic, just used the wrong name for it.

The impeller has seen quite some beating, I hope I'll be able to straighten the vanes some. There is also 3/16" longitudinal play in and out of the auger gear box - that can't be too good, or?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
So, I took off the front end. The belt disc came right off with a crow bar and some light taps on the auger skaft. The augers also slid right off. The impeller needed some light heating, but only butane - no need to mapp it.

Contrary to my belief, the impeller bearing had hardly any play at all, perhaps 1/32 or so. Flanges were both good. I'll replace it anyway, now that it's out, but it seems the belt disc was not fitted all the way onto the shaft, hence the longitudinal play that I mistook for bearing wear.

Auger end bearings had no play at all, and auger gearbox has oil in it (or some greyish sludge, anyway). Gaskets seems to hold up pretty well.

What do you think, any chance of bending or beating those vanes back in shape, or will they crack?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So that has a battery start setup?????
No, it's a 240V setup, missing a proprietary extension cord. I'll pull the starter and have a look inside, clean it if necessary, before I try to apply any voltage to it.
 

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So, I took off the front end. The belt disc came right off with a crow bar and some light taps on the auger skaft. The augers also slid right off. The impeller needed some light heating, but only butane - no need to mapp it.

Contrary to my belief, the impeller bearing had hardly any play at all, perhaps 1/32 or so. Flanges were both good. I'll replace it anyway, now that it's out, but it seems the belt disc was not fitted all the way onto the shaft, hence the longitudinal play that I mistook for bearing wear.

Auger end bearings had no play at all, and auger gearbox has oil in it (or some greyish sludge, anyway). Gaskets seems to hold up pretty well.

What do you think, any chance of bending or beating those vanes back in shape, or will they crack?
That is NOT THE RIGHT IMPELLER. The POWERSHIFTS Ran a 4 blade setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
That is NOT THE RIGHT IMPELLER. The POWERSHIFTS Ran a 4 blade setup.
I wouldn't know, but according to the parts links up above in this thread it seems indeed to be the 3 blade setup on this particular model year?

Any thoughts on bending it back into shape, or am I better off getting a replacement? Anyone happen to have a fitting impeller lying around in the garage, be it 3 or 4 blades?
 

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I wouldn't know, but according to the parts links up above in this thread it seems indeed to be the 3 blade setup on this particular model year?

Any thoughts on bending it back into shape, or am I better off getting a replacement? Anyone happen to have a fitting impeller lying around in the garage, be it 3 or 4 blades?
Well now just slap me silly with a rubber hose. I was wrong that impeller is now also NLA. So you just might have to brush up on your Blacksmithing skills.
 

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Also those axle shaft ends look rusty pull the pins and wheels and grease those axles


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