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Discussion Starter #1
I just received my new Cub Cadet 24" 3X and have been able to use it once so far. Everything seems to work pretty well so far with the exception of the power steering feature.

First of all the steering trigger on the right side is much closer to the handle than the steering trigger on the left side. When turning right I can squeeze the trigger completely and the snow blower makes a gradual right turn without a problem.

But when I try to turn left by squeezing the trigger the wheel locks and the snow blower jerks awkwardly trying to make the turn. Has anyone else experienced this behavior, and is there a way to adjust the steering?

Thanks!

PS. At first I thought I would never get used to the "joystick" chute control, but I found that by holding my hand over the top of the joystick (as opposed to holding it by the stick like you would usually handle a joystick) that is was MUCH easier to control. I also noticed that sometimes the chute would creep back a little from the far left position, but I'm not sure how to correct that particular problem.
 

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Does your owners manual say anything about adjustments? Mine doesn't jerk like you said yours did.

I've found the chute does creep a bit forward if it doesn't engage the lock. So I'll just depress the trigger, move it to the left all the way and it usually stays locked there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is nothing in the owners manual about adjusting the steering. I suspect that it's probably something the dealer would have to do which I'm not willing to do at this point in time (I live in a suburb of Boston and we've been slammed this year!)

I'll try your suggestion about re-engaging the lock to keep the chute in place.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There were absolutely no snow blowers left at dealers or big box stores in my area a few weeks ago. I ordered it from Home Depot online. This particular model was only sold online and not carried in Home Depot stores.

Thanks
 

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I was just looking at mine, and I almost think you'd have to tip the blower up onto the auger housing and remove the lower panel to get to any adjustments.
Are the trigger cables installed correctly? One of mine wasn't put in right at the trigger end, when it was assembled at Home Depot.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Caddydaddy you are the man for pointing me in the right direction!

I removed the lower panel and it turns out that there are no adjustments for the steering cables (the cables actually go into a side compartment on each side of the auger housing). However, because I tipped the snow blower up and onto the auger housing I was able to see something. It turns out that it was my fault that the steering did not work correctly.

I bought the snow cab for the blower and inadvertently pinched one of the steering cables when I mounted the hardware to the frame. I can't believe I did that, but I was grateful that I did not damage the cable.

So there you have it...all's well that ends well.

Once again, thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
 

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So there you have it...all's well that ends well.
That's great. I like the like the steering of my 3x26.

As for the chute adjustment, I find that it's easiest to pull joystick all the way back (towards me). Next, navigate to the desired left/right position. And then push forward to adjust the deflector. This makes it an easy task.

Trying to move it to the desired left/right position while holding the back/forth adjustment of the deflector at the same time is tiring and not easy when you've got some big gloves on.
 

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Hi,

I think I can suggest answers both questions. This youtube video describes how to fix a rusted and stuck steering support axle shaft tube and shows how the split shaft works. Just ignore the chains as you have gears.

I found out how my track drive power steering works by accident after lubing my shaft tube while it was still assembled on my new snow blower. It used to take a 15 foot diameter circle to turn this thing. Then I accidentally lifted up slightly on the handles to shift some weight onto the front wheels of the track. Now it turns on a dime with slight lifting. Stepping on the tracks didn't do much for a sharper turn. Problem solved and with a slightly lithium lubed support tube.

After months of research, I installed a very close MTD knockoff chute drive motor from Grainger on my blower. It is powered by an Advance Auto 5L-BS motorcycle battery in a pouch like in a Honda track drive guy did on youtube. The wiring is not tied to the engine electrical at all. This is a totally floating ground and isolated wired system.

I used a 2L008 motor, a Grainger 5/16" steel set screw coupling drilled out half way to 3/8", an aluminum Hom. Dep. 3/8" OD rod 5.75 inches long, and some Lowes nylon washers for motor shaft spacers. I discarded the black MTD/CUB manual crank grommet but not the front black flex drive shaft coupler, spring washer and fender washer. I used wide plumbing rubber washers for spacers to level the MTD grommet mounting plate and motor to a Simpson tie plate with proper holes drilled into it. The studs on this motor are prevented the motor from rotating by the MTD mounting plate but the shock absorbing rubber flat washers stop all motor assemble rotation under load.

Rotation time is about 10-12 seconds. Maybe a faster 2L010 motor would work???

The gear reduction motor will hold the chute at any position except for gear lash in the worm gear by the chute. Current draw? 0.2 amps under no load. 0.5 amps under some load. 1.1 amps under stall. The factory 1041 car lamp draws 1.4 amps but that's just for reference of the estimated output of the engine stator. Use a battery and Battery Tender to recharge the battery.

You can buy a momentary (on-off-on) switch and boot cover from Digikey or a $18 waterproof MAN-RS2 switch from:
Momentary Rocker Switch
I already had an old DPDT momentary / center spring return to off one for polarity reversing of the motor leads.

The DPDT toggle switch can be mounted in the existing 1/2" hole by the grip heater switch. The hole is there. You need to install a 1/4" actuator extension about one inch long on the toggle switch. Just wrap a turn or two of electrical tape on the actuator and push on the polyethylene tubing extension. Ditto a boot cover, if used.

Digikey rubber toggle switch boot cover? Item CWI310-ND. $1.30.

Some assembly and fabrication required. No holes were drilled into the CUB snowblower anywhere. Cost? About $150. The motor is $70 alone. This install almost looks like it is factory. The factory 4-way joystick on a Troy and the Grainger motor both have a plastic motor boot cover. That boot sealed the deal for me and I ordered the 2L008 motor and other parts.

HTH,

Stefan
 
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