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Discussion Starter #1
I see my last log in was about a year ago and of course now it's snowing/has just snowed over a foot...


Last spring when I put the snowblower away everything was working fine. I didn't even use the electric start because it always started easily on the first pull. I put it away with about 1/2 tank of 100LL fuel (no ethanol) and last year's oil. When I pulled it out this year I hit the primer button a few times and it started on the first pull. As it warmed up I went to turn off the choke and it started to sputter --wouldn't run with the choke off, would only run with choke on... weird but whatever. So let it warm up, shut it off, come back in a few minutes and change the oil. Go back about a week later, fill the tank with new/fresh fuel and then and do the same thing (change the oil again). Choke still weird but it runs great with the choke in the on position so I'll put it "on the list" and get to it eventually.


It's still snowing now and we already got 12+. I went out to do the driveway and it was great but about 3/4 of the way through it stalls and now it'll start but won't stay running. If I pump the primer it'll start but it won't stay running.


Any idea where I should start? I'm a bit of a motor head but cars, not small engines and this thing is covered everywhere with metal plates. Typically I'd start by pulling off the carb & intake and cleaning that. Are there typical things that I should check first on them? This is the Briggs & Stratton 5hp motor. My guess would be float or needle (or fuel line) but odd that it ran so well immediately and then dies like that.


Thanks.
 

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An easy thing to try is open up the gas cap when it quits and then re-close it. It may be starved for fuel because the vent in the cap is plugged. If it starts back up immediately, then you can either get a new gas cap, or try to find the vent hole and unplug it, or poke a small hole it it - this is described in this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got it. Thanks. Do you know... Is the choke knob supposed to slide right off the metal shaft? Or how do you get the cover off that covers the the intake & carburetor? I've already come this far so I at least want to sort out the choke & carb issue. Just don't want to break anything.
 

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Got it. Thanks. Do you know... Is the choke knob supposed to slide right off the metal shaft? Or how do you get the cover off that covers the the intake & carburetor? I've already come this far so I at least want to sort out the choke & carb issue. Just don't want to break anything.
The choke knob comes off with a good hard tug. I use pliers to grab the knob on mine and pull back. Do check and see if there are any set screws holding the knob to the shaft, just to be safe. Mine has a plastic shaft with a snap gizzo on the end that engages the knob so it doesn't fall off from vibration, but my engine is different from yours.

Maybe post a picture of yours and I can tell better, or post the engine part number so I can look it up.

Does sound like something blocking the carb, causing it to run way too lean, since it sort of runs with some choke on. I think you will find the manual recommends emptying the gas tank and running all the fuel out of the system by letting the engine run till its our of fuel after the season is over.

A copy of the manual can be found here, assuming its the correct version for your model year.

http://www.hammerwall.com/Download_Manual/9390/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. Mine had a metal shaft with no clips or pins. Didn't like how it pulled out but I'll glue it or something if it doesn't go back on snug. I risked it and the plastic knob came off with a tool I had (for prying car interior door panels off). In thinking about this... I think I have it sorted. I should also correct: It is a 5ph Tecumseh motor, not Briggs.

Her aunt gave us this thing a couple years back. It had a flat tire and besides being covered with dust, it literally looked brand new. I had no idea why she had bought another one (she got one with a headlight & heated handles, etc.) and no idea why she didn't sell it or why she just gave it to us because it was that new/unused. In hindsight, looking at the situation. I didn't do anything other than put fresh gas in it, seal the bead of the tire and fire it up. When I pulled the float bowl there was a ton of crap in there. God only knows how many years it had been sitting in her garage, how much moisture the ethanol had absorbed, etc. I have some gasket material laying around. I'll just clean it up and it'll be fine. As long as the float needle looks good (doubt the jets are serviceable more than blowing them out with compressed air) I bet it'll run perfectly fine. Choke plate & lever must have gotten bumped. That looks fine now too.


Who knows. I can report back or I'll certainly ask if I have more issues in a bit.

EDIT: Have the manual already. Thanks.
 

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These things have no air filters?
No air filters, surprising isn't it. No need, you aren't kicking up dust, dirt, grass, the air tends to be cleaner as no pollen in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No air filters, surprising isn't it. No need, you aren't kicking up dust, dirt, grass, the air tends to be cleaner as no pollen in the air.
Nuts. I want to put something on there but everything I can think of has the possibility of icing up. I guess I'll trust the engineers. Mixing up a new batch of fuel now so we'll see how it runs in about 10min. I think that was all it needs.

**mixing up a batch of fuel means running 50% 100LL and 50% 91 octane E0 (mogas) edit: didn't want someone to think I was mixing up two-stroke fuel
 
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