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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I picked-up an '89 Toro 824 38080 Yesterday from CL for $185.




The PO is a small-engine enthusiast so I lucked-out there. I dropped the float bowl this morning and was not disappointed aside from a bowl o-ring that had some dryrot; I have a stockpile...so we're covered. HS mixture was nuts-on, idle-mixture was off by 1/2-turn...no biggie.


RPM's were a little shy at 3200 so I adjusted the throttle to hit 3450-3500 (no load).

The scraper bar is in excellent shape...the PO kept the skids adjusted.

The interlock circuit is completely hosed so I have some parts on order. The drive & auger belts are on their last legs as well.
busted handle interlock:


I'm guessing that this is the interlock module...disconnected to account for the bad keyswitch & handle-switch?:


Besides that, I have a few broken bolts to extract and she'll be "good enough" for the next blizzard...until I do a tear-down / restoration on her.


Overall I'm very satisfied! Very strong engine & mechanically-sound machine!
 

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i've never seen a used snowblower that didn't need some tlc
 

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I have the same model blower. I would think about replacing the fuel line. After 25 years, the inside of the line may be collapsing and restricting fuel flow. There are hundreds, maybe thousands of these machines running without changing the gas tank mounting. Could you post a picture of the tank and fuel shutoff ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
does yours sputter going down-hill when the tank gets below 1/4 full?

I'll snap some pics the next chance I get...I can tell you that even on a flat surface, the fuel pick-up is located at the highest-point of the tank. That's a little silly :rolleyes: .
 

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IT'S not your fuel tank. the carb has to be cleaned and rebuilt. on the out side chance the float may be sticking or sinking. check it out when you do the carb...it is a tecumsapart right??????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
IT'S not your fuel tank. the carb has to be cleaned and rebuilt. on the out side chance the float may be sticking or sinking. check it out when you do the carb...it is a tecumsapart right??????
Thanks guys! I think you've answered my original question; tilting the tank is not a common modification. :D

COME ON PS93...I'm throwing you "tecumsapart" softballs here man! I'm just a little irritated by this design...and you're right, I might have a sticky needle/valve (brown truck should be here today).

Maybe I'll put a honkin' fuel filter on that will serve as a collection reservoir during ups-and-downs during a low-fuel condition.
 

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does yours sputter going down-hill when the tank gets below 1/4 full?

I'll snap some pics the next chance I get...I can tell you that even on a flat surface, the fuel pick-up is located at the highest-point of the tank. That's a little silly :rolleyes: .
I don't have any hills to confirm a sputtering, but POWERSHIFT sounds correct with the float possibly sinking or incorrectly set. Not sure what you mean by the pick up being at the high point of the tank?? Pictures ??
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I don't have any hills to confirm a sputtering, but POWERSHIFT sounds correct with the float possibly sinking or incorrectly set. Not sure what you mean by the pick up being at the high point of the tank?? Pictures ??
It's not a float issue; dry bowl.

this is as level as my property gets.


no biggie guys, I'll just keep keep the tank 1/4-full.

Sorry for beating a dead horse! :)
 

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The fuel line from the tank to the shut off is about the same length as mine. I would still suggest changing the fuel lines for a $2-$3 cost. The Tecumseh lines are a little smaller outside diameter to fit through the shroud and behind the flywheel than standard 1/4" id automotive line. Please don't give up on the fix, everyone here is willing to help!
 

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The tilt of the tank might be due to someone putting on a slightly bigger tire or even having chains. If your tank has the two screws on the top like mine does you could simply loosen the front one and remove the rear one to place a couple washers between the tank and the mount to drop that rear a bit. If your plans are to tear it down big time this off season you could always put the mount in a vise and tweak it some to put that drain down. Always nice to be able to use all the fuel in your tank and I would go with a clear filter. Nice place to collect and see if you get water in your fuel too !!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The tilt of the tank might be due to someone putting on a slightly bigger tire or even having chains. If your tank has the two screws on the top like mine does you could simply loosen the front one and remove the rear one to place a couple washers between the tank and the mount to drop that rear a bit. If your plans are to tear it down big time this off season you could always put the mount in a vise and tweak it some to put that drain down. Always nice to be able to use all the fuel in your tank and I would go with a clear filter. Nice place to collect and see if you get water in your fuel too !!
^^ Bingo :cool:
 

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Besides that, I have a few broken bolts to extract and she'll be "good enough" for the next blizzard...until I do a tear-down / restoration on her.


Overall I'm very satisfied! Very strong engine & mechanically-sound machine!
My HM80 came to me with that front bolt already snapped off, and I broke the muffler one myself. Tried drilling out the muffler one and proceeded to muck it up bad enough that it was no longer fixable. eBay and $17 and I had a replacement head with good threads. It came off of a lawn tractor, so it never saw snow. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
My HM80 came to me with that front bolt already snapped off, and I broke the muffler one myself. Tried drilling out the muffler one and proceeded to muck it up bad enough that it was no longer fixable. eBay and $17 and I had a replacement head with good threads. It came off of a lawn tractor, so it never saw snow. :)
I work on outboards so I've got some practice. Left-handed bits, very slow drill speeds & LOTS of cutting oil.

If the bolt doesn't back-out, I'll shave it close to the threads with a dremel, pick-out the 1st 2 or 3 threads using a dental pick and chase it with a tap.

...otoh if I can snag a deal on a new head :D

from my boat/motor resto.


 

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Is that a heli-coil that you are using as a drill guide? Cause if it is I'm kicking myself for never thinking of using one for this purpose. I know that you may not have intended to share this idea, but thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Is that a heli-coil that you are using as a drill guide? Cause if it is I'm kicking myself for never thinking of using one for this purpose. I know that you may not have intended to share this idea, but thanks!
dang, that is a good idea!

that's actually the broken bolt backing out with the left-handed bit :D
 

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Well, that'll never happen again. I make a mistake, and it actually ended up being a good idea.:D

Course, it only would help if there were any threads for it to lock into. If it were a flush break, then you would still be hurting. But if it had a recessed throat, then you could use a simple barrel collar.

Dang, why didn't I think of this sooner!
 
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