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This is my first post so bare with me!

I have a John Deere TRX26" 8hp Tecumseh snow blower. The unit runs perfect however there is a large amount of oil that comes out the breather/valve cover. I took off the cover and replaced the gasket. This didn't help. This unit has a brand new spark plug and new carburator.

I was told by a good friend who works on small engines that this might need a new ring set. Does anyone have any other recommendations to try before putting a new set of rings in.

:white^_^arial^_^0^_
 

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Sounds like it is due for an complete overhaul of the motor. I don't know how much money you want to stick in that engine. or you could slap a Harbor freight predator motor on there pretty cheap. anyhoo ALOHA from the paradise city.:smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027:
 

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The ring set is only like $22.00 and I would like to sell this snow blower as I've bought another one but I also don't want to rip someone off
 

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There is a Drain Hole on the bottom of the Breather which allows the oil to go back into the crankcase that might be clogged. Also, make sure there is not too much oil in it.
 

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It def. did not have to much oil in it I'm certain of that. I will check the drain hole. Is there a way to check if its plugged? How big is it? Best way to clean it?
 

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The ring set is only like $22.00 and I would like to sell this snow blower as I've bought another one but I also don't want to rip someone off
if only a re-ring would just cost $22.00 ! what about gaskets ? what about the bolt that may or may not twist off and need to be drilled and re-tapped ? a ring job usually turns into more than just a ring job...for me anyway! hopefully it is just , as mentioned, just something plugged, or an overfilled crankcase. if not, and again as mentioned, a $99 predator is usually a quick and almost painless swap, and then the machine can be sold as having a NEW engine.
 

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I had a 1971 Tecumseh H70, 7 horsepower engine on a 1971 Ariens Sno-Thro. That engine started blowing oil out of the oil breather unit. So badly we had to tape a bottle under it to grab all the oil blowing out. It was makeshift. Well it turned out the engine was on its way out once it started doing that. I think it lasted one more winter and then one storm the piston connecting rod snapped off the shaft and it blew a hole in the side of the crankcase under the fuel tank. It had also chewed up one of the valve taps when it had blown. Besides the connecting rod, crankcase and one valve tap all other parts on the motor were still good. But anyway yea that was the end of that engine. It worked 43 hard years and it finally quit. I found someone who had the exact same engine, from the same year off the same machine. He had taken it off his machine to do a re-power. I payed $150 for that engine and it was babied by the previous owner. Now my Ariens has another 1971 Tecumseh H70 that looks new and the machine runs like its a whole new machine again. My Ariens got a second chance to stay all stock. If you go on ebay you will find many good old Tecumseh engines for sale at descent prices. Their is also a man selling, never used NOS Tecumseh engines made around the final years of production. He is selling a 10 horsepower brand new for $385 plus shipping and a 12 horsepower for $445 plus shipping. The harbor freight predator also works well. The 212cc sells for 100 and under depending where you find it. I have seen a few of the 301cc (13hp) models selling on ebay for $125. At harbor freight they're around $200 something, anyway their good engine's and their prices are very reasonable. Of course a NOS Tecumseh is still better because you know if you take care of it you will get an average of a 40 year lifespan out of it, where no one knows the average lifespan of a predator because they have only been around 5-6 years. But they are reliable, excellent running, powerful engine's at an unbeatable price. But your Tecumseh is having the symptoms of it being on its way out. You would have to do a complete overhaul to save the inevitable on that one.
 

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+1 on Jackmel's recommendation.

Also double check the seal of the drain tube / dipstick. A break in the crankcase seal prevents the breather check-valve from closing on the piston's up-stroke.

are you able to check compression (better yet, Leakdown test)? Ideally you'd check compression with an electric starter due to the compression release mechanism. Low compression could be a number of things but if you have good compression, you may be able to rule-out bad rings.
 
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