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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Going to be a rainy couple of days and my chipper for the moment is outside under a tarp. When I get a good day I’ll go out and check on some things and at the very least take a few photos of what I have.
 

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Yes! You're probably right - I totally missed that when looking in the Briggs parts manual. Thanks! Too bad it costs more than the actual starter motor...
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Thanks for the help, I greatly appreciate it!
 

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Going to be a rainy couple of days and my chipper for the moment is outside under a tarp. When I get a good day I’ll go out and check on some things and at the very least take a few photos of what I have.
Thanks Chevy88, I appreciate it - I'll wait for your photos before ordering the $56 part. I don't want to buy it if it's not what's being used on these machines.
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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My 5HP has the key switch and has never had electric start (and I bought it new). The key switch means nothing in that context . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Here is the promised pic of my 8hp starter. Best I could do. Brings me to a question for the knowledgeable. I just bought and charged a brand new battery for it. Hook it it all up, tried the key. Absolutely nothing. Doesn’t make a noise, doesn’t try to start, nothing. Is there a bad wire connection somewhere? Starter gone bad? If so, worth the cost of a new one to replace? I don’t mind using the pull starter as long as I remember that the key still needs to be in the ON position in order to start even when pulling it.
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I assume the starter has a solenoid, since the Troy keyswitch is not that rugged? If so, jump the battery hot to the solenoid and see if the starter engages. (If no solenoid, simply hit the starter with direct battery to test).

Oh, and I don't see any picture . . .
 

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Hey Chevy88, thanks much! Those pics are helpful. I'm pretty sure I just need the bracket (Cap-Dive) that tabora mentioned. Thanks for the pic - I feel a little better about ordering a $50 part now.

Hey, regarding your starter issue, check the underside of the key switch to see if any wires pulled off the terminals. I found one that had pulled off of mine. Just something to check, simple and easy. Otherwise, you can try bypassing the solenoid / energizing the starter by connecting the 12+ from your battery to the 12+ terminal on the starter (like the blue line in the photo). Use a jumper cable or something with sufficient current carrying capacity, though, as the starter draws a lot of current.

The black wire in your photo (see the green arrow below) is the wire from the key switch to the solenoid; it looks like there's a splice or terminal connection right by where I drew the arrow Maybe it's dirty or corroded? If it comes apart, try cleaning it. I'm guessing that the solenoid is energized by 12+ through the key switch, then through that wire (and grounded to the chassis), so you could also just energize the solenoid by applying 12+ to the terminal on the solenoid where that wire connects. If the starter turns with 12+ applied directly to it, but not when you energize the solenoid, then your solenoid is probably bad. If your starter is bad, you can get a replacement on ebay for ~$55, but save that aluminum bracket on the front! You'll need it!

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
So I tried hooking my battery charger/booster to it. Negative to left battery terminal. Not shown above and positive to the other end of the blue line. Did not start. However, what did happen was interesting. The starter had trouble moving at first, but then spun the whole time. Didn’t matter what position the key was in or if the key was in. Only way to stop in from spinning was remove the positive.
 

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Hi folks
I recently obtained a Bolen 8 hp chipper/ vac.
Model 47289
It is in great shape
It seems this model has disappeared from the planet!
Looks to be the same as a Troy Bilt model 47287 (not much info on this model either)

The drive belt part #1909198 is no longer available except on ebay for $50.
Seems like a lot of $$ for a small flat drive belt.
Any cross reference parts ideas?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
That’s pretty cool. I never knew those existed. Of course, I didn’t know the Troybilts did either till about 5 years ago. Since then I have had about 5 come through here. Owned/used 1 (5hp), flipped a couple. My personal one broke and I ended up coming across this 8hp one. They appear to be identical machines. Is the belt number the bolens part or the matching TroyBilt part? Overall, I like these machines. I feel like the self propelled is out of necessity due to the shear weight of these things. Pushing them around a yard would be brutal. The bag being so low is kind of a pain to empty, but it’s way better than bagging leaves by hand. I have 3 different from nossels, prefer the one shaped more like a scoop. I can rake leaves into it from a pile and it does a nice job. Would love to someday get the electric start option on mine to work but that’s a different language for me.
 

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Thanks for the info guys.
It is a great machine and with 8 hp much better than the lower hp vacs that seem to look like converted lawn mowers.
The fan is vertical not horizontal which I feel is more efficient
The belt replacement advice was great.
a 3LV 290 $6.50 belt did the job.
.
 

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Hi all,
Just purchased a Troy Bilt 47287 with the Briggs & Stratton 192437-1125 engine.
After replacing carb and rebuilding the fuel pump she runs like a champ.
See the amount of knowledge in this thread, I was hoping you could help with my last issue...

I can't get the throttle linkage to move the lever. My apologizes if I'm not using the right names...
My expectation, is that when the Throttle is moved up, the Lever should move to the right.
What creates the linkage and make the Lever move?
Picture below...

Not sure if it, but the Throttle is 222A and the Lever is 227 on the parts sheet.
Link to Control Bracket Parts Sheet

I really appreciate your help!

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The throttle control should put tension on the gov linkage to tend to pull the throttle open, in opposition to the forces opposing it coming from the gov. When the engine is not running, the gov imparts no force, so typically, the throttle sits at wide open, and as such, the linkage cannot move any further, which may be what you are seeing. Does the gov linkage move by hand? If not, then it's either hungnup where it exits the block, or possibly it is misadjusted, or you have the linkage wrong.
 

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Thanks Tadawson!
Both the Throttle and Gov linkage move freely.
The issue is that when I move the Throttle up or down it does not move the Gov.
There is a blue spring between the two, but it is mostly loose. It doesn't look stretched...
There is also a spring at the bottom of the Gov, but it doesn't seem to do much. It also doesn't looked stretched.

1. What makes the Gov move when the Throttle is increase? Is the the blue spring dead, or is there a spring or some sort of linkage missing?
2. What makes the Gov move back when the Throttle is decreased?
 

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1. What makes the Gov move when the Throttle is increase? Is the the blue spring dead, or is there a spring or some sort of linkage missing?
2. What makes the Gov move back when the Throttle is decreased?
You won't see the governor in action without the engine running. A mechanical governor uses flyweights to create a force based off of crankshaft speed which is balanced by the force of the governor spring. The top engine speed is varied by increasing the spring force to run faster or decreasing the force to run slower. The governor spring wants to open the throttle and the governor tries to close the throttle. The interaction of the governor spring and mechanical governor holds the throttle at the desired engine RPMs based upon a force balance and the load / operating conditions.

The throttle lever simply varies the RPM range over which the governor can operate.

 
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Taboa!
I can't believe I didn't think to just connect everything and start it. Didn't even occur to me that the engine would create the tension. We're up and running and mulching wood.

Thanks for the help all! Hope I can help in the future!
 
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