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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've had this snowblower for 5 years (purchased used from someone on CL who would refurbish and re-sell old snowblowers). I have to admit, until this year I did not perform much maintenance on it other than changing the oil once or twice and getting a carb rebuild kit (which may contribute to one of my problems/questions). The machine worked okay for the past 5 winters but when I was starting it up last month in preparation for the upcoming winter I realized that it really needed some TLC. Everything seemed to work okay so I believe it's just regular maintenance items that it needs.

In researching new Ariens snowblowers I came to the realization that I really did not want to spend $1,500 on a new, powerful, high quality machine if I could spend $100-$200 on parts/tools and get another 5 years or more out my current unit. It's Ariens model #924050 and serial #005321. These forums, and YouTube, have been helpful in learning about the machine and how to do some of the maintenance.

This month I decided to really get down to completing some real maintenance including new belts, sparkplug, brake, auger/impeller bearing, gearcase lube, auger grease, belt cover, skids, replaced the missing choke knob, snow clearing tool mounted...and maybe purchase some drift cutters and a light of some sort? While I have everything apart, I've been cleaning and greasing/lubing parts as I go along. There is certainly alot of surface rust on the bucket and auger, but I'm not tackling a paint job on it this year (maybe next summer!).

Engine ID mismatch:
The manual says that the engine should be Tecumseh HM80-155128F but the indicator on the engine (underneath the electric starter) says it is HM80-155128E. I searched the forums earlier and it seems someone else had same issue with theirs and the consensus was that Ariens used one of the 155128E engines instead of the 155128F as it was early in the production year? If I'm reading the engine serial number correctly (9017D) it was built on the 17th day of 1979.

When it comes to replacing the carburetor, it seems that the F model of the engine has replacement carburetor (632334A) available very cheap online while the E model only has a more expensive service carburetor available (631957B). Is there really a difference in the carburetor for the two engines? Can I get the one for the F model and use it on my E model engine? A few years ago I got a carb rebuild kit (I do not recall from where I bought it, or specifically which carb model it was for) and it runs okay...but it does leak gas when priming. So nothing too bad, but since I'm doing all the other maintenance items I thought it would be good to get a new and correct carburetor.


Pictures below for reference. All were taken when I first took it out of the garage last month, before I started taking machine apart for maintenance and cleaning.
 

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It looks like it is worth fixing up. That is my favorite Ariens model....I've got several......BTW...they are supposed to leak when you prime them.....you are squirting gas in the mouth of the carb......check the movement of the impeller bearing and the wheel bearings. After 30 or 40 years, they sometimes need replacement...LOL
 

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@Greg,

As far as the choke, look at the pictures on both, but I think the difference is how the choke lever is fashioned. You may have to mod for the new choke lever. I put the 632334 on an HM8, 924 series, and just reconfigured a mod for the choke, runs fine.

I would personally take off the lawn tires and the bouncy chains, they beat the machine and surface way to much in my opinion, and opt for the XTrac snow tires like all the new blowers come with.
 

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That is a good Model worth spending a few bucks on. +1 on the Bearings, and a New Auger Belt. If you don't want to Paint it, at least get some rust converter to stop the Rust. You can get Fancy Later. GL.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I clarified my original post to make it clear I did get a new impeller bearing (I was calling it the auger bearing, but that was not correct). Wheel bearings seem good (it's possible they were replaced in the past as I see it has a newer looking friction disc as well). I got 2 new brand new PIX kevlar belts that are going on the machine. The old drive belt had chunks missing so glad I got to that now. The auger belt looked okay but figured I'd just replace it since it's cheap/easy and I already have the machine apart.

I did not know it's normal for the carb to leak! So maybe I'll just clean the carb that's on the machine already and re-adjust it for the new season since it seems to work okay. I did pick up a whole new carb setup from Amazon for cheap, but may end up returning it if I decide I can keep what I have.


Any recommendations for a rust converter? Years and years ago I used naval jelly for another project to remove rust, but not sure if this is the same? Seems that a lot of products are designed to neutralize/remove rust, but not actually prevent it from coming back or spreading.
 

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What I do on those old Ariens is to get a Scotch pad to fit on the drill and scuff off the rust and loose paint...then prime with either Rusty Metal Primer from rustoleum, or Rustoleum Rust converter. I then top coat with rustoleum Allis Chalmers orange. I use the spray on the outside, but brush in the bucket
 

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Seems like if you want to go a more affordable route then buying direct Ariens orange paint is like the Cranman said.....Allis Chalmers Orange or also the Engine Chevy Block Orange Enamel seem to be very close matches....lets us know what you use and how it comes out!!!!
 

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What I do on those old Ariens is to get a Scotch pad to fit on the drill and scuff off the rust and loose paint...then prime with either Rusty Metal Primer from rustoleum, or Rustoleum Rust converter. I then top coat with rustoleum Allis Chalmers orange. I use the spray on the outside, but brush in the bucket
Cranman, Simplicity has two orange paint colors...the Deep orange and the powder Orange do you know if Simpicity has the same orange in one of those as Alllis Chalmers Orange....from old alliance back in the day????
 

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I've got a Simplicity Sno Away 7 that is a very dark orange....now more rust colored LOL...it's a parts machine so I haven't tried painting it. Saving it for parts for my Allis Chalmers Tracker 7...don't know much about Simplicity colors.
 

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I've got a Simplicity Sno Away 7 that is a very dark orange....now more rust colored LOL...it's a parts machine so I haven't tried painting it. Saving it for parts for my Allis Chalmers Tracker 7...don't know much about Simplicity colors.

Yeah that would be the Deep Orange 1685611SM on yours!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A couple more questions...

1) what do people run for spark plugs in these? everything I found online says it should have Ariens Service #33636 which translate to Champion RJ17LM or Autolite 245 (as well as many others). I figured I'd replace the spark plug since it's been several years since I got the machine and I see that the spark plug in it was an Autolite 295 - it seemed to work okay over the years but I never knew it was the wrong one.

My local Ariens dealer first sold me the wrong plug altogether, RN14YC, but I did not realize until I got home. I took it back to them and they gave me a B&S 796112 plug which looks similar, but is not listed as a direct substitution for RJ17LM. In the store, they told me that the RJ17LM is no longer available and that they only keep these two spark plugs on hand and it's either one or the other. Seems it is a replacement for RJ19LM. Physically, the specs are similar but there are a few from what I found researching online:

RJ17LM vs RJ19LM
Heat Range: 17 vs 19
Electrode Size: 2.0mm vs 2.2mm

Should I be okay running this other spark plug with a slightly hotter plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
EDIT #2: seems I should probably be fine with RJ19LM spark plug instead of RJ17LM. So disregard below unless someone really feels strongly against it.

EDIT #1: I typed up a lengthy post earlier today asking about spark plugs and it seems to have gotten lost, so here is a shorter version:

spark plug that came with my machine is Autolite 295, which is not the correct plug per the manual and cross reference guides online. According to manual it should be Champion RJ17LM or Autolite 245.

My local Ariens dealer/parts/repair shop initially gave me the wrong spark plug (RN14YC) and when I took it back to them they gave me a Briggs & Stratton 796112, which appears to cross reference to RJ19LM (specs are slightly different from RJ17LM, though physically they match up). It seems RJ19LM/796112 is slightly hotter (19 vs 17) and slight larger center electrode (2.2mm vs 2.0mm)

Think I should be okay running the RJ19LM equivalent plug? Or am I just asking for trouble going anything other than exactly as specified in original manual? My shop told me that they only use 2 plugs for these Ariens snowblowers - either the 1st one (that was definitely wrong and not even close to fitting) or this RJ19LM equivalent.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Update!

After getting everything back together, including installing a new carburetor (old one I think needed cleaning and there is a screw shaft stuck in one of the holes for the throttle control assembly/bracket (needed because I have the throttle control on the dash/handlebars), I could not get the machine to run right. No matter how many adjustments I made to the two main screws, the engine kept surging, it would die when engaging the auger clutch, and would not settle into a normal idle.

I then decided to clean the old carburetor and reinstall it on the machine and voila! It runs. It still seems to rev a bit on its own, and the RPMs don't always drop when I lower the throttle, but it's more than usable. I actually have a new governor spring on order and it should be here later this week - the current spring seems really stretched out and I think this could be causing some of the surging/revving issues. I have never touched the governor arm or control, so I don't think that needs adjusting, but will look to that last if the governor spring doesn't solve the other minor issues.

Remaining questions/issues:
1) Apparently the carburetors on amazon/ebay are not 100% interchangeable if the exact engine model number is not listed as compatible...or the unit I bought was defective. here is a link the one I purchased and it does not show HM80-155128E. I was not able to find what the exact specifications/differences are, but perhaps someone else knows?

2) The PIX kevlar auger belt I bought and installed seems to be slightly too big? I have the pulley pushed all the way out on the arm just to get it to engage. I'm thinking of just putting a standard belt on...or keeping one handy in case this one stretches/wears to the point that it can't be used any longer.

3) does anyone have pictures/diagrams of the throttle linkage for these engines with the throttle on the handlebars? Everything I find is for engines where the throttle is right next to the choke.
 
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