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Hey guys, new to the site. I have a Yard Machines snow blower that I have been having fun with working on. It came with a 5 horse Tecumseh and I just repowered it with the HMSK 85 which I've got installed and running good. It looks like I am able to add a light to this model and want to go with a LED light bar.

I have read a bunch of posts but can't really get a clear answer. Most of them travel down the road of electrical theory and what not. Looking for someone to help me with a simple answer on this one. "Explain Like I'm 5"

If I want to add a LED light bar, do I just find one that is 18 watt or less, and add a bridge rectifier?

I read all Tecumsheh's use a 18 watt ac alternator to run the headlights. I just don't want to fry anything on the motor. Just need help selecting the correct parts and then I think I can handle the rest, Thanks Guys Happy Snow Blowing!!!!!
 

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Simple answer is yes LOL Capacitors may be needed but not always, They just stop the lights from flickering as not all engines make the same electrical output.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you!

Can I go bigger or should I stick with 18 Watt? Again my main concern is not frying anything. Also don't want to make anything too complicated. A little light goes a long way!

Wanted to do like a single 18" light bar but they are more than 18 watts
 

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I wouldn't go too high on the wattage but 18w is fine, I got a set of these and was surprised at how bright they actually were, Puts my ariens light to shame LOL (Not hard to do though) But they were cheap and work well, Put one on a Ariens Sno-Tek with a upgraded engine and the other on the same engine your putting one on. Not sure if these are 18w each or not but only have one per blower and they are bright.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R75NK1M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The one I mounted on the Sno Tek, Not a night pic but just to show it's brightness a bit.
 
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Those lights are cool Dauntae, so you stuck with the 18 watt as well. Although I do think those are 18 Watt Each.

You said you did this on the same motor I am working with:

Am I correct in assuming the yellow wire with the male bullet connector - the one that comes out under the fuel tank behind the starter - is for the lights?

Also did you use a bridge rectifier? And is there any specific one I need or are they all the same?
 

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I only had one yellow wire and the other I grounded to the engine block, LED ONLY work with DC so you will need the bridge rectifier, I found it cheapest for me as I repair them and add lights for customers so I buy them either 5 or 10 at a time off ebay as they are cheap. They have kits all wired up but wiring them are easy. These are cheap and so far have been working fine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-KBPC5010-1000-Volt-Bridge-Rectifier-50-Amp-50A-Metal-Case-1000V-Diode-Bridge/152312567804?epid=2020147073&hash=item23768957fc:g:vV0AAOSw4GVYJBKo:rk:2:pf:0
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the help!
 

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One more question Dauntae, on the HMSK 85 did you find that you needed the capacitors or did you do fine without them? Are the capacitors just for keeping the light from flickering?
 

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There is no wrong "stuff" only different options. There are any number of headlights available that would work and some of the newer stuff has a built in rectifier so it's description will say operates on AC or DC.
Your diagram and parts look good. I have those thinner LED headlights on my riding mower as they fit in the hole of the original headlights much better than the rectangular ones I use on snowblowers. I do make sure they are floods as I like the spread better and don't really need to push light further out like a spot would do.

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