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Discussion Starter #3
Been doing this for years on snowblowers and lawn tractors too.
Lawn tractor? Did you see donyboy's video on removing a seized PTO? Very thrilling and he uses the anti-seize again!
 

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I use to use graphite Never Seize on axles and such but switched to synthetic grease. Cheaper and not necessary. I use Never Seize on car lug nuts, head bolts, muffler bolts, and bolts that will seize up.
 

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I use never Seize on back side of rims where they mount on the hubs. I never use on lug nuts as harder to keep them tight as I change winter rims and summer rims.
 

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I've used this kind of Never Seize for decades. I've not heard of doing this before, but it makes sense. I'm guessing the reason I've never thought of doing something like this is that in over 50 years of snowblowing in heavy snow country, I've never had to remove a wheel.

Pertaining to lug nuts: Years ago (and for many years)I used to put a dab of synthetic grease on the wheel studs for the reasons mentioned here. I've since been told, and have read, you shouldn't do that with the torque specs for disc brakes these days. I have a couple vehicles that only call for 90 pounds...none over 110. It's not like the old drum brake days when the big boys at the tire shop put the torque to them and you had to have a breaker bar with you to get them off.
 

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I've used this kind of Never Seize for decades. I've not heard of doing this before, but it makes sense. I'm guessing the reason I've never thought of doing something like this is that in over 50 years of snowblowing in heavy snow country, I've never had to remove a wheel.

Pertaining to lug nuts: Years ago (and for many years)I used to put a dab of synthetic grease on the wheel studs for the reasons mentioned here. I've since been told, and have read, you shouldn't do that with the torque specs for disc brakes these days. I have a couple vehicles that only call for 90 pounds...none over 110. It's not like the old drum brake days when the big boys at the tire shop put the torque to them and you had to have a breaker bar with you to get them off.
Lower torque on the lugs is the result of all the aluminum wheels and either deforming or cracking under high torque.
 

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If you use Never Seize on axle shaft, why is it we don't use it on auger shaft. I guess the auger shaft needs more attention and ease of use with zerks?
 

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Periodically you should check that your auger is free spinning on its shaft .... Even if it means pulling the shear pin/bolt, and spinning it.
 

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I really like DB's videos. He works on all kinds of blowers and if you had an MTD like I did, he provides a lot of insight and useful information. FWIW, back in the day, aboard ship, we made our own anti-seize by mixing graphite powder and either oil or grease, depending on the application.
 

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From what I remember the earlier use of aluminum rims were a issue when too tight, but newer grades of aluminum are much better.
 

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Periodically you should check that your auger is free spinning on its shaft .... Even if it means pulling the shear pin/bolt, and spinning it.
At the risk of sounding dumb I'll ask you my question anyway, do I need to add grease and/or lubrication to any parts on my brand new snowblower? Does it come from the factory greased?
 

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There is never a dumb question .....

Your manual should specify the grease/lube points on your specific machine.

Many big box store machines are not greased as they should be when sold out the door. This is one area your local brand retailer should shine.

Some blowers have sealed bearings, but there are many points on all machines that need periodic maintenance for proper operation, with the augers being lubed on the auger shaft being one. If not lubed, many have zerk grease fittings, they will get rust welded over time, and the shear pin will not do its job, and you will take out a gear in the gear box.
 

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Many big box store machines are not greased as they should be when sold out the door. This is one area your local brand retailer should shine.
What he said.

However, there are occasionally bad dealers as well as good mechanics at the big box stores. That is not the norm but it does happen.

In any event regardless of where you buy it, it will not hurt a thing if you do over it the minute you get it home (preferably before a snowflake falls) and do all the lubrication/greasing specified in the manual. That way you will know for sure that it was done. If you bought it new, it's also cleaner that it will probably ever be again and it's a pleasure to work on, and you will familiarize yourself thoroughly with the new machine.

I bought my Ariens new and the axles had been greased but not liberally and I was glad that I took the wheels off when I did and found that rust was just starting to form. Had I waited another year I'd have been using hammers and foul language.
 

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For those hesitating to do this to the axles: I have a new Cub Cadet I bought a little over a month ago, used it one time so far. This made a lot of sense to lub up the axles so I removed the bolt on the right hand wheel and it wouldn't come off (already!) Had to use a 2x4 and a machine hammer to coax it off (left wheel was fine). No rust yet of course, but not much lubricant either. Appeared to have a very thin film of something, not quite sure what. I used some Jet-Lube Kopr-Kote anti-seize and reapplied. Also removed the 4 shear pins (3 stage) and used some white lithium spray grease on the auger shafts. Don't know why theses manufacturers can't spend an extra couple of bucks and put on grease nipples at the factory. Planned obsolescence I guess. This was assembled at Lowe's, and during first use I noticed I only had one reverse gear so had to readjust the cable. That kind of got my attention to what else may not be assembled/adjusted right.
 

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rcleone

Very good advice. I was just getting my snowblower ready for winter, and took the wheels off the axles, and it was loaded with rust. The snowblower is only 5 years old.
 
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