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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just happen to have a u haul from moving my brother so Im trying to find one close cheap today. This is a 20 year old one owner 860 with the cast iron grips. The fella is older I guess wants to get a new auto turn model so the sale. So is this a "pro model" for its time? Needless to say looks pretty clean guy did his own maintenance. Thanks
 

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The square rectangular tubing indicates this is the Pro model and IMO 8hp/26 is the Best, good power to width ratio, has weight to the tires, thicker metal. I have a neighbor using the 10/30 and he has no problem going through his town plowed piled corner.

$200 is a bargain. Get it cheaper in person or over the phone but don't walk away.
 

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By the looks of it, I would say worth the 200 all day long ... By the way it is well maintained, and in good running condition, I dont think I would even low ball him, as it looks like you dont have to do a thing, except maybe some new poly skids and eventually down the road some new XTrac tires.
 

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I agree with the other guys, looks to be in great condition and well maintained. Check it over and if it is as good as it looks in the photos, easily worth $200.00.
These are very well built machines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does it have a differential lock where one wheel goes free to move it or something you guys talk about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I talked to the guy he's 87 y/o Said "i drained the gas changed the oil every year it runs as good as the day I bought it 20 years ago". Ill send some pics
 

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Does it have a differential lock where one wheel goes free to move it or something you guys talk about?
Don't worry about it. You are confused. It doesn't have a differential, aka transmission, it has a rubber friction disk. All snowblowers with a rubber friction disk you have 3 choices, both wheels freewheel, 1 wheel freewheel while the other drives, or both wheel drives. While snowblowing we all blow with both wheels engaged driving otherwise it pulls to the driving side, we all push the snowblower around, engine not running, with both wheels engaged, possibly if you are going to push it down the street with the engine not running you would disengage both wheels. To disengage, you pull a pin or remove a 1/4" both at the ends of the axle.
 
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Don't worry about it. You are confused. It doesn't have a differential, aka transmission, it has a rubber friction disk. All snowblowers with a rubber friction disk you have 3 choices, both wheels freewheel, 1 wheel freewheel while the other drives, or both wheel drives. While snowblowing we all blow with both wheels engaged driving otherwise it pulls to the driving side, we all push the snowblower around, engine not running, with both wheels engaged, possibly if you are going to push it down the street with the engine not running you would disengage both wheels. To disengage, you pull a pin or remove a 1/4" both at the ends of the axle.
exept for a old toro 1132 or 826, from 1979 to 1984, they had a clutch to engage each wheel independently
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I saw original P work its 1993 Came with manual. Starts right up doesn't bog I'm happy after the hunt 175 bucks.
 

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You found yourself a real gem, hardly ever see a machine of that age in such good condition and obviously well maintained.

Well bought, probably the best $175.00 you will ever spend.

Treat her well and she should should give you at least another 30 years of service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks so pullng the little rings off the axel/wheels will do what? Sorry for a dumb question.
 

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If your talking about the wheel ring pin locks, you pull them out of the wheel, set the pin ahead (outside) of the wheel in the axle for free wheel.

I would not bother, as I don't know anyone that free wheels a machine like that, either side, while blowing snow.
 
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