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I have a new 2410 and have used it twice now without any problems. I did crack the handle attachment knob when I tightened it. I am contacting the company for a replacement. Overall, I am impressed with the value for the price. Starts very easy with the pull starter. It really tore through the icy remnants the snowplows left behind.
 

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Nice to have a machine that will take care of what they dump at the end of the drive, isn't it? Makes you look forward to the next snowfall.
 

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hi blueguy, nice blower. yea those eod issues can be a real pain in the neck sometimes. i usually try to get them asap before the car/truck drives over them. in fact thats where i spend most of my time doing that plus the curbing to the city drain grate. last night i spent an hour just opening up the sidewalk to the street plus the fire hydrant. anyway good luck and post some pictures of the winter snow
 

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If you call TroyBilt, they will send you a new knob no questions asked. They are very easy to deal with and usually will replace small parts like that at no cost. Just be nice about it and have your full model number and serial number ready (sticker at the back of the blower on the body just below the motor... its a white label). I think im going to swap mine out with some stainless hardware.
 

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I was just given one as the previous owner ran it most of last year with no rubber on his friction wheel and ate up the aluminum friction disc. Already replaced and ready to go. Pulled the carb today to clean it out with carb spray and compressed air and it's still surging. That seems to be a common problem now a days. Yes it did sit each winter with gas in it and I think that habit finally caught up with it.

Other thing I noticed is the gap between the impeller and the housing. I can get one of my fat fingers in there. Been researching the "clearance kits" and think I'm going to try that.
 

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The only good thing about pulling the carb is the choke was very rough to try and turn. Once I had it apart it was just a standard notched hunk of metal with a stiff spring to hold it in the detents. Problem with mine was corrosion. I used a little synthetic bearing grease on it and it moves like new. If you're having trouble with a stiff choke it's likely in need of some lube.
 

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I also have the surging problem and now that the rubber on the friction wheel fell off again I'm going to pull the carb and drill it.

This is what I ran across from someone else:
My storm 2410 ran unacceptably lean since new, popping and coughing. Its a 2011 model with a powermore 179cc ohv engine. The carburetor is a huayi that is non adjustable. I did the following and it runs quite well now, I am pleased with the results although ymmv.

Main jet drilled out with a #68drill bit to .030"

Idle jet drilled out to .017" with a welding torch cleaner

Stock Spark plug (LG brand) changed to NGK BPR6ES

I got mine from father in law (original owner) with the rubber missing and the aluminum flat drive plate chewed up and the metal driven wheel pretty badly chewed too. I reinstalled the rubber into the driven wheel and bought a new drive plate but while testing it yesterday the rubber fell out so I have a complete driven assembly coming.
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I hope this isn't a "built in" problem with them losing the rubber friction ring.

I don't have the manual here but is there anything about only shifting when the drive is engaged ??
 

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Friction disc is generally supposed to be shifted with it disengaged. They can be quite difficult to shift on the fly.
 

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I'm getting happier with my 2410 as I just found out it does have the ability to run a light and it may have enough to run hand warmers !!
I thought it was wiring for a remote key on/off switch and it turns out these China made 365-SUBs have the option of having a stator and it can be added if it's missing. If it's already there you have a pair of wires coming up from the bottom of the recoil housing on the starters side. They are 6 or 7" red and yellow leads inside a black sheath terminating at the starter with a white plug. Mine was tie wrapped to the wire for the starter.
Too cold to photo.

This Snow stator part # 951-10719
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Craftsman-Parts/Snow-removal-equipment-Parts/951-10719/0071/247/Model-24788957/0247/1507200?keySuffixId=&pathTaken=partSearch&pathRender=modelComponent&documentCompId=P1001080&diagramPageId=00004
 

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surging

Hey, my 2410 also surges, but it only does this at idle. I can't run it at all with the choke fully off, it has low rpm's and runs like crap. It will only run at full rpm's at half choke. Even after a full warm up.
It does stop surging once it is under a load chewing up the snow....but still at half choke.
This seems to be just the way this motor runs. Mine worked like this brand new...as did many of the others that people have complained about on the web. There is a youtube video of the storm 2410 that does exactly what mine does.
Except for the surging, I am pretty happy by the way this thing clears snow. It goes through almost anything and it scrapes right down to the pavement, as well as destroying the lovely ice chunks that the plows leave in front of my driveway. Now, if it only could chew through the plastic baseball bats that my children strategically hide under the snow! That would be great!
 

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As I posted a few weeks ago, I had to clean the idle air circuit to stop the surging for the second time since I bought my TroyBilt 2410. I also had a sticky solenoid cured with a small squirt of spray grease, an easy fix. It seems that both surging occurrences were caused by stale gas. My fiance recently pulled the file on the machine and I was surprised that I bought it back in 09. This caused me to re-evaluate my opinion of the Chinese made motor and Troy Bilt quality in general over the long haul.When you consider that it runs and operates like new through the coldest and heaviest snowfalls on record I honestly can't think of much to complain about as far of the durability of the machine or the performance for that matter. It just keeps on chewing through the snow as long as you use a modicum of common sense when you attack the eod. Even when it was running with the choke slightly on it never faltered in the last 8 winters. Of course I would have preferred a more powerful machine but, truth be hold I bought it in the beginning of a huge blizzard and my local Lowes was sold out. Blizzards in Michigan hit hard. I would prefer a larger hole in the idle jet but obviously Tecumseh and Briggs carbs are having the same bad gas problem also. I purchased an inline filter to install and am going to see if I can reroute a longer fuel line under the shroud where you could access an on/off valve even if it involves trimming an opening. I believe if you could shut off the gas you could run the carb dry and fix the problem. For the money this is a hard machine to beat.
 
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