Can someone confirm that this is a Briggs 130202 with a 397358 coil?

 

Will I be replacing the entire coil and points asssembly behind the flywheel?

 

That looks exactly like the coil on my 16 horsepower I/C briggs engine that powers my Lawn Genie pick up mower

There is nothing behind the flywheel to replace or worry about.

 

Hello soybean
What you're looking at is a "points & condenser" ignition system. The wire from the coil going behind the flywheel goes to the points compartment. The coil maybe a 298316 which require the use of points and condenser.
However, good news, you can use the 397358 electronic coil and eliminate the points and condenser!
Remove the old coil and cut the wire to the points. Sand the coil mount post until bright and corrosion free. Sand / wire brush the flywheel to clean the rust off the magnets and outer surface. Install the new 397358 coil and set the gap to the flywheel to around .020". If there is a kill switch, you will need to cut that wire going to the points compartment and re-run a wire from the kill switch to the spade lug on the new coil. Usually the coil kit has a wire to do such.
The kit may also have a new flywheel key and a points plunger plug if you choose to pop the flywheel off and actually remove the points.

 

On many of those older engines, they had a tab bolted under a head bolt (which you could make), that just bent down to contact the plug and turn off.

On one of my older units like that with the diaphragm tank carburetor, that had a newer coil plug cord, instead of the open end plug wire, I just put a sharpened screw in the tab end, so when brought down onto the rubber plug end, it was able to pierce it enough to ground it out/off.

You could also just run a small gauge wire from inside the plug end coil wire to a cheap toggle switch which is grounded, then just flip the switch.

 

I figured that I already needed a 397358 at the time I created the thread, I just wasn't sure if I had to gut out the condensor and points, and I didn't really want to do that either. It's the first time I have worked on one.

AND I kept the old plug. I used an air gun to blow away the chunks of solid fuel stuck inside the plug, verified the gap, and was able to get it to fire on a teaspoon of gas. I have no idea why smart folks are so fixated on replacing plugs. I like to keep my profits as high as possible.

 

I don't like the idea of running a small wire from the plug boot to an on/off switch. Any place that wire comes close to grounded metal will be an opportunity for spark voltage to leak to ground, not to mention the doubtful ability of the switch itself to hold high voltage back. For these reasons ignition is generally controlled on the low voltage side of the system except in the cases of the grounding strap secured under a head bolt.