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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Arent the pumps dry when made? Or in transport (on the blower) to the dealer? Wouldn’t they be seized from the factory?

or are the pumps lubed from the pump factory, and then Ariens, or dealer, or jr put in fuel to test the blower it washes away lubricant?

these blowers can stay unsold for a long time. Is it possible that jr just got a bad pump that just sticks?
They are dry from the factory of course. Yes there is possibly lube in the pump portion that does get washed away by the gas or the internal impeller swells from the gas? Or I got a bad one...
 

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1981 Canadian tire “mastercraft” made by MTD with tecumseh engine HM-80 1155334N
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They are dry from the factory of course. Yes there is possibly lube in the pump portion that does get washed away by the gas or the internal impeller swells from the gas? Or I got a bad one...
or your pump just prefers a 12 volt jumpstart first thing in the morning? Lol. You never did answer if you removed the pump to jump it or did you just connect wires to get it spinning?
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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i would guess because it doesn't likely require a full 12v to build the pressure needed to run plus 7.2v is likely more easily achievable by the stator than 12v.
That, and most logic circuits tend to be 5v or 3.3, so far easier to regulate 7.2 down . . .

As far as what you get from a stator, I imagine that that could be anything they want, depending on the wind. I'd also be curious to see what voltage the pump gets when running, since the stator has to be more than 7.2 or it could not charge the battery . . . Gotta wonder if the 7.2 was determined to be "just enough" to get it started, so they went for a cheap, available pack . . . (and if they can easily change to a higher voltage if this is widespread . . . I certainly can't imagine any pump mfg. that would warranty a pump clearly marked as 12v to be perfect on 7.2 . . .
 

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1981 Canadian tire “mastercraft” made by MTD with tecumseh engine HM-80 1155334N
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That, and most logic circuits tend to be 5v or 3.3, so far easier to regulate 7.2 down . . .

As far as what you get from a stator, I imagine that that could be anything they want, depending on the wind. I'd also be curious to see what voltage the pump gets when running, since the stator has to be more than 7.2 or it could not charge the battery . . . Gotta wonder if the 7.2 was determined to be "just enough" to get it started, so they went for a cheap, available pack . . . (and if they can easily change to a higher voltage if this is widespread . . . I certainly can't imagine any pump mfg. that would warranty a pump clearly marked as 12v to be perfect on 7.2 . . .
your an EFI/tech kinda guy. Can you explain this picture from the Ariens EFI manual? It’s a guy probing the fuel injector connection with a multimeter, BUT it looks like he has the probes going through a brown tube?? Heat shrink?

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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your an EFI/tech kinda guy. Can you explain this picture from the Ariens EFI manual? It’s a guy probing the fuel injector connection with a multimeter, BUT it looks like he has the probes going through a brown tube?? Heat shrink?

View attachment 198660
Looks like a pin probe that attaches to the meter lead (and not one that fits terribly well). It's simply a way to adapt the probe to the small connector sockets, as was already noted.
 

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I have always had trouble with the stock leads. Latest one still works, but all the ones before.... aggravating.
Been running these for a few years now, hated most stock leads too, BUT love these!! Come in a kit, they go through conformal coatings and crusty flux like butter, super sharp/non slip, can change/replace or sharpen them, super narrow, can slide inside most connectors. Still using very first set of steel tips, sharpened maybe twice now. Fine silicone no burn leads.........They're NOT industrial 10A Fluke leads, but they're pretty tough and durable, designed more for bench like work.

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I tend to use these, but then do mostly PC board and in-chassis electronics than basic electrical.

View attachment 198697
I've got a box of those, too... Really like my extended pointy ones though; I thought they'd be awkward to use (being so long), but the extra reach has come in handy many times.
 

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Even if there were and thankfully on mine there are none, the fuel pump has a built in pick up filter on it that would make it impossible to have contaminates enter the pump. It is actually a well built unit visually wise. The more I would tap with the 9v you would hear it improve as the tap got louder or longer as I perceived. I would like to get my hands on another and cut it open to see why these bind up. If the rep sends me out a new one I may do that to the original and make a new post of my findings.
Some of the shavings were finer than the filter. Remember, they said it was impossible for the Titanic to sink.
 

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Some of the shavings were finer than the filter. Remember, they said it was impossible for the Titanic to sink.
They would have to be REALLY tiny. A typical gasoline filter is 10 microns or smaller. Filters with a 10 micron rating can remove unseen materials from liquid but not bacteria or viruses. Although I understand that some B&S filters are closer to 40 microns; still pretty fine. A human hair is about 50-100 microns in diameter.
 

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They would have to be REALLY tiny. A typical gasoline filter is 10 microns or smaller. Filters with a 10 micron rating can remove unseen materials from liquid but not bacteria or viruses. Although I understand that some B&S filters are closer to 40 microns; still pretty fine.
What I saw was a super fine dust of metal shavings. I would compare it to the consistency of saw dust when sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. It was enough to coat an entire magnet when it was lowered into the tank. My guess it would only take one or two to get thru the filter and spin around in the pump. The pump was trashed. It had less than 10 minutes of run time on the pump to trash it out.
 
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