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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After restoring my Dad's 5 HP 10000 series last spring (which he purchased new in 1968), I have been on the lookout for another Ariens (10000 series or 70's vintage twin stick 924 series) machine in decent condition for my next project.

In my neck of the woods, they are not near as plentiful as in the US of A and rarely, if ever at the curb with a free sign on them.

I found one yesterday that I could not resist in the small town I grew up in an hour away from here. The gentleman I bought it from had owned it for 25 years and had purchased it from an "older guy" who bought it new. For those 25 years, the machine was used about 6 times a year at his cottage. He has purchased a new 28" machine with all the current "safety" features, as he was concerned that others (son in laws etc) would be operating the machine in the future. The machine has been maintained and definitely stored indoors all it's life.

The Ariens is a 1974 model (last year for the 10000 series), 24" bucket with the original HM 80 Tecumseh 8 HP engine. Engine runs great, no surging or smoking, auger gear box seals and bushings were replaced in the last couple of years.

I haven't done anything with it yet, other than spraying all the hardware with Liquid Wrench.

I paid $225.00 for it, which I feel is a fair price for my area. He offered to delivered it, which saved me the hassle of borrowing a friends truck.

I'm thinking I will totally dismantle machine, replace any bad bushings or bearings, hardware, gas lines, perform valve job, clean carb etc. Remove rust inside chute and bucket, sand, prime and paint, but leave the original paint on the rest of machine. I think it will clean up pretty good with rubbing compound and wax.

What are your thoughts on this plan, or would you repaint entire machine?

Some photos from the ad on Kijjiji:

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That definitely looks well worth some love!
 

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ultimately i would like to have one or two minty '73-'74 10000 series blowers, with the upscale chromed handles! probably the best of the first and second series.

how do repaints actually hold up? i see some refurbs that look factory fresh, but can't imagine the paint holds up like the factory, or that the rust removal is 100%.
 

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That's exactly what we used to have, just the 7HP . . . Went away to college, and my father somehow forgot to refill oil on a change and locked up the engine (or so it is claimed). Very mechanical man, but never bothered to look to see if it could be repaired/repowered . . . I still miss that thing! Never found anything it could not handle! One of these days . . .
 

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You got yourself a real beauty!!!
 

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All the 10,000 series are good and last forever. This year was the first time we got some snow so I tried out the 1973 I got a few years ago. First year the left lever was on top. If you are used to the older ones you will have some learning time. I used it the first 2 hours with hand cramping, Went back and got one of the old ones for the second 2 hours. Nice to have one though! Most of us never have enough!! Great looking machine!!
 

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Actually, the lever on top is the newer years, and required you to hold it to get the machine to move. The older ones with the lever under were squeeze to stop, and presented a very real risk of the blower running away if you fell. Myself, with many years on a '74 (top lever), I never felt any effort squeezing or holding the lever, and the added safety of no potential runaways make the 73/74 the only 10000 series machines I would consider.

(You can verify the lever placement and function on Scott's Ariens page.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Parts have arrived for the new project:
head gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, carb kit, axle bushings, impeller bearing, spare belt, muffler and hardware, gas line.

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I spent a couple minutes with mild degreaser and rubbing compound to see how the paint responds to some love.

I am only going to repaint the inside of the chute and auger housing and will leave the rest original (battle scars and all), should clean up pretty well.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Started to disassemble the machine today, removed the chute and engine.

The axle bushings definitely need replacing, no play or noise from impeller bearing, but will replace it anyway. Resprayed hardware with Liquid Wrench.

Tuesday is supposed to be warm (17 C), so going to apply degreaser and power wash the engine and machine to remove some of the grime built up over 47 years of use.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cleaned up the gas tank inside and out and the belly pan.
The inside of the tank was clean as a whistle except for a few black particles of debris. The previous owner said he always drained the tank before he stored it for the summer.

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I don't plan on repainting the exterior of this machine, but I did a complete repaint on my other 10000 series last year.

If you are wondering how close Dupli-color DE1620 Chevy Orange is to the original Ariens paint colour, I placed the inside of the belly pan (not faded) next to the repainted auger housing I did last year.
Pretty close match.


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Cleaned up the gas tank inside and out and the belly pan.
The inside of the tank was clean as a whistle except for a few black particles of debris. The previous owner said he always drained the tank before he stored it for the summer.

View attachment 177590 View attachment 177591 View attachment 177592 View attachment 177594 View attachment 177595 View attachment 177596



I don't plan on repainting the exterior of this machine, but I did a complete repaint on my other 10000 series last year.

If you are wondering how close Dupli-color DE1620 Chevy Orange is to the original Ariens paint colour, I placed the inside of the belly pan (not faded) next to the repainted auger housing I did last year.
Pretty close match.


View attachment 177597
Looks Great! (y)
What do you use as primer for Dupli-color DE1620 Chevy Orange?
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am showing steps and photos that may seem obvious and perhaps not necessary to the guys that have done dozens of these rebuilds.
However, I am trying to document the process the best I can, for newbies like myself, who are not as experienced and may not have refurbished a snow blower before.

Any tips or recommendations are most welcome.

Split the machine and gave it a good power wash to get rid of some of the grease and grime.

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Dismantled the Tecumseh HM 80 in preparation for carb rebuild and valve job.


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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I had soaked all the hardware on the machine and engine several times with a good penetrant (like Liquid Wrench) over a couple of weeks. Have not had any issues removing any bolts so far.

I also take a lot of photos of the dismantling process, so I hopefully know how it all goes back together.

I tag and bag all hardware and try to store all small items in one organized area to prevent lost parts.


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I think your doing very good ...

Since it is pretty well apart, I would inspect the axle bushings, as well as the auger shaft end bucket bushings .... now would be the time to replace them if they need it.

If your not going to do any sand and prime and paint, I would at least pick up a can of acrylic clear coat, spray any bare metal areas, as it will give some protection while keeping its patina.

I personally don't like the chains on the lawn tires, I take the wheels off, clean and paint the rims, and install the XTrac. But if you don't mind the chains, and they work for you, you can bag and tape the mounted tires, clean up the rims, and still prime and paint them with the tires on, just takes a bit of time. ... it will give them years of protection, and look much better.

Make sure you top off the auger gearbox ( I use 75W140 gear lube.)

Inspect the friction disc and clean the drive plate, lube the friction disc shaft, as well as all chains and gears.

Prior to re-assembly, check and inspect everything .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks oneacer, your restorations are second to none.

I plan on completing the engine first and then will tackle the disassembly of the tractor and then the blower assembly.

The axle bushings need replacing. I have new axle bushings, auger bushings and impeller bearing ready to install. The friction disc is in good shape, but I do have a spare if needed. Full clean up of the tractor assembly, with new grease and will drain and replace the auger gear box gear oil.

I plan on only repainting the inside of the bucket and chute, (flap disc and grinder to remove rust, red oxide primer and paint). Will metal prep a couple areas and touch up the paint or maybe consider your recommendation of spraying with clear coat, hadn't thought of that option.

Going to run the turf tires and chains, but will probably have to repaint the rims.

Thanks for your input.
 

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The 10000 series are my preference, as I have 3 of them, along with my Yardman 7100 and a 10HP Craftsman. I sold all the other blowers I had last year.

This time of the year is a great time to tackle those refurbishing projects ... I am finishing a 10000 series project myself, as well as in the process of restoring my older Ryan Core Plug Aerator, which I picked up cheap, which runs great, but needs a cosmetic restore.

177729
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I had assumed the engine had a Tecumseh carb, but the factory carb on this engine is a Walbro LME 49. The inside of the carb was very clean, and components look to be in good condition. The O ring on the main jet needle and float bowl gasket were shot. I was able to use the O ring from the Tec. rebuild kit I had ordered and have a new Stens float bowl gasket on order (2 3/8" OD).

Rebuild kits for these carbs are harder to find and expensive, especially if you live in Canada, about $32.00 CAD Plus $22.00 CAD for shipping. I am glad this carb was in good condition.


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Carb ready to install once the float bowl gasket arrives

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Has anyone found a cheap Chinese direct replacement for these Walbro LME 49 carbs, that will match up to the original linkages and mounts?

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