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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
The previous owner had installed a CJ8 plug instead of the recommended J8C or RJ19LM.

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When I pulled the head, it was pretty carboned up. I don't know if the incorrect CJ8 plug could have contributed to some of the carbon and oily residue?
The engine did not smoke at all prior to tear down.


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Cleaned the head and valves up. Lapped and lashed the valves

Initial #'s: Exhaust - .010" Intake - .009"

After lapping: Exhaust - .006" Intake - .008"

Final lash: Exhaust - .010" Intake - .009"


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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Primed and painted engine tins, gas tank mounts and hardware, using Trem clad Recreational White, which seems to be a close match to the original paint colour.

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Cleaned up and painted the rims

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Cleaned up the handle bars with some degreaser, fine steel wool and glass cleaner and then some chrome polish

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I love my 10000 series ... one of them has the Ratchet Wheel kit that was available as an option back then ... love that feature, spins on a dime
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I removed the axles yesterday to replace the axle bushings. As Jack Mels advised it was easy to remove, just remove the the large pin on the differential control and the small roll pin on the other end of the axle.

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Having the grease fitting on the axle shaft helped to keep everything lubed over the 47 years of use.

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Degreased and cleaned up parts and shafts

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The bronze bushings were paper thin and tore apart when removing. Replaced just in time.

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Painted outer axle shafts and differential control knob

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I removed the axles yesterday to replace the axle bushings. As Jack Mels advised it was easy to remove, just remove the the large pin on the differential control and the small roll pin on the other end of the axle.

View attachment 178200 View attachment 178201


Having the grease fitting on the axle shaft helped to keep everything lubed over the 47 years of use.

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Degreased and cleaned up parts and shafts

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The bronze bushings were paper thin and tore apart when removing. Replaced just in time.

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Painted outer axle shafts and differential control knob

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Very well done!
The bushing carriers on mine are damaged ... and will be replaced by the ones on my 924028.
I noticed that the bushings are not placed dead center in the middle of the carriers. I was surprised and must remember in what position the triangular shaped carriers must be reinstalled ... or is this just my imagination?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Good eye, I never noticed that, but it sure looks to be the case.

I will make sure I re install in same position as they were in originally.

Edit: These photos were taken with the tractor body in the service position.

For reference when standing behind handle bars:

Left side
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Right side

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looks good. pretty cool how they have the differential setup in that. the differential is definitely a nice option to have. i have considered shopping for a newer ariens deluxe for that option or find a older mtd and swap in the differential setup i already have sitting around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
These photos are with the tractor body horizonal, as it would be sitting on it's tires.
I have placed the carriers with the serial #'s positioned in the same position as they came off the unit.
Not sure it matters, but I will be re installing them in the same orientation as they were originally.

Sorry for the confusion

Left side
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Right Side
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These photos are with the tractor body horizonal, as it would be sitting on it's tires.
I have placed the carriers with the serial #'s positioned in the same position as they came off the unit.
Not sure it matters, but I will be re installing them in the same orientation as they were originally.

Sorry for the confusion

Left side
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Right Side
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Thanks for the update @Ziggy65!
It is apparent that the slimmest side of the triangular bushing carrier point towards the rear of the tractor.
BTW side pics of my 910002 show the carriers in the same position as yours.
Tomorrow I will be "borrowing" the axle bushing carriers from my 924028 ... and will look closely at their positions.
I'll get back with feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thanks for the update @Ziggy65!
It is apparent that the slimmest side of the triangular bushing carrier point towards the rear of the tractor.
BTW side pics of my 910002 show the carriers in the same position as yours.
Tomorrow I will be "borrowing" the axle bushing carriers from my 924028 ... and will look closely at their positions.
I'll get back with feedback.
Good to know, I suspect the correct orientation does matter then.
 

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it would big time. if you move where the axle sits you also change how the long of a chain you need. i almost wonder if the measurement between each side is slightly different so they can also be used to take slop out of the chain if needed. it would definitely explain why they didn't just put the bushing right in the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Degreased and cleaned up the tractor body and mechanicals. Used rubbing compound to refresh the paint a little.

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As I am not planning on painting the exterior of the machine, (only the inside of the bucket and chute, augers and impeller) I purchased a gallon of Allis Chalmers farm implement paint (on sale for half price, basically the price of a quart). I will also use it on my other blowers, to touch up future gravel rash in the chute and impeller housing. I plan on applying it with a brush and will also touch up any small areas that need attention.
I wanted to compare A-C colour match to the Dupli color Chevy engine orange I have used before and also to see how well the brushed on paint job wears compared to a sprayed paint job in the impeller housing and inside of the chute..

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I touched up the paint where the engine mounts and handle bars wore the paint to bare metal. Very close match to the original paint colour, but I would give a slight nod to the Dupli-color 1620 Chevy engine orange as a little better match to the original Ariens colour.

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it would big time. if you move where the axle sits you also change how the long of a chain you need. i almost wonder if the measurement between each side is slightly different so they can also be used to take slop out of the chain if needed. it would definitely explain why they didn't just put the bushing right in the middle.
@crazzywolfie
IMHO if we move where the axle sits, it not only affect the chain slop. It also moves the differential gear teeth away or closer to the sprocket gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
On this series of machine, the chain and sprockets are not affected by the axle placement.
The issue would be with the meshing of the gears as seen in the photo on the left and possibly the axle shaft rubbing where it passes through the bracket.

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ok i thought your differential may have been chain driven like the 1 i have. with gears like that you definitely want them to mesh correctly so they don't wear funny
 

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Good to know, I suspect the correct orientation does matter then.
@Ziggy65

On my 924, the slimmest part points upwards. That is different than what is on my 10,000 series.

On both of my 10,000 series, the slimmest part of the axle bushing carriers faced towards the rear of the tractor. I believe that the carriers on both of your 10,000 series are oriented in the same way.

I will therefore make sure to position them in the same fashion (slim portion towards the rear) when re-assembling my 910021.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
@Ziggy65

On my 924, the slimmest part points upwards. That is different than what is on my 10,000 series.

On both of my 10,000 series, the slimmest part of the axle bushing carriers faced towards the rear of the tractor. I believe that the carriers on both of your 10,000 series are oriented in the same way.

I will therefore make sure to position them in the same fashion (slim portion towards the rear) when re-assembling my 910021.

Thank you
Hi quexpress

I removed the auger assembly from the bucket the other day and noticed there were 2 flat washers on the shaft by each outer bushing carriers. The parts diagram for 1973 and 1974 machines only show 1 washer installed on each side (2 in total).

I know that the 1972 and older 10000 series have 1 washer there and one between the gear box and and the rake (auger) on both sides (4 washers total).

The previous owner installed new auger bushings and gear box seals in the past and I want to make sure he installed the washers correctly, or if they should be installed like the earlier machines.

I think you have a 1973 10000 series, would you be able to check if you have 2 washers on each of the outer ends of the shaft and/or if you have a flat washer on each side of the gear box on the auger shaft?

Your help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

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