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Painted the inside if the auger housing and chute, as well as the rakes, impeller, gear case, scraper bar and skids.

3 thin brushed on coats spaced 2 hours apart and within 8 hours as per the instructions on the paint can. Definitely easier and less time consuming to use spray paint, but I want to compare the wear of this paint against the spray job I did last year on my other 10000 series. I can use it to touch up small areas on the outside of the machine as well.

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(y) Very nice paint result ... very shiny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Your coming up to the best part of mine soon, the final assembly.
(y) Very nice paint result ... very shiny.
Thanks, yes this farm implement paint is very glossy, the photos were taken 24 hours after painting and the paint was totally dry to the touch.

Final assembly is the best part of these projects, when you finally see all your efforts in the finished product. What I need to do know is show some patience, and let this farm implement paint set up and cure for at least a week or two.

I still have some exterior paint touch up to do on the bucket and address the burnt paint area on the chute.
As well as yard work, grass cutting, interior/exterior detail, including waxing of both vehicles, cleaning house and garage windows and glass panels on three decks etc. etc. etc..
So I should have no trouble keeping busy while waiting for paint to cure:rolleyes:.
 

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LOL, I have so much to do, I don't even bother making a list ... Its all in my head and I choose what I would like to on any given day.

If I forget something, then it must not have been that important anyway.

Ahhh, the joys of retirement ... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Paint has cured for about 2 weeks, so did final treatment of the chute and bucket with rubbing compound and then a coat of wax. Installed the scraper bar and skid shoes.

80% original paint

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The bucket was painted on lower edge of scraper bar area and lower area around skids, the majority of the exterior bucket paint is original.

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Installed the impeller kit, but did not tighten the hardware, will adjust and tighten once I get the auger/impeller installed in the housing. I elongated the holes of the rubber pieces, so I have some adjustment.

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I installed the auger/impeller assembly (including new impeller bearing) in the blower housing. Oiled the auger bushings and pumped low temp snowmobile grease into the zerks on the auger shafts until grease was coming out of both ends (actually took quite a bit of grease) and rotated the rakes on the shafts. Installed new correct shear bolts. The grooved impeller stub, cam locks, auger engagement assembly and the chute ring were also greased.

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One of the captive nuts for bolting the tractor to the blower housing had a previously broken retaining clip, so I taped it in place as the previous owner had done. Tape did the job as everything tightened up as it should.

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I replaced the small flat metal pieces I had made up for the impeller kit with large flat washers.
I had drilled the holes in the recessed area of the impeller blades as it gave better access to tighten the bolts. I didn't like how the rubber would raise up when the bolts were tightened and made it more difficult to adjust the flaps for a perfect fit. I found the washers worked much better. I think I have them adjusted just shy of touching the impeller housing, but have sprayed housing with Fluid Film for break in just in case.

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Bolted the blower housing to the tractor and installed the chute control rods and chute.

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Next - fill with go - go juice and hope for no gas leaks, start it up and get the carb dialed in.
Run her around the driveway in all gears and wear in the impeller kit, hopefully everything will function as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Gassed her up and no leaks.

Started up right away with the electric starter and the recommended Walbro LME carb settings (1 1/4 turn out on both main and idle mixture screws). Took some time playing with the mixture screws to get it dialed in, but it is now running very well. The previous owner had said the machine would slowly loose RPM, had to adjust the throttle control a little to prevent the linkage from moving off of full throttle.

I ran the auger for several minutes to wear in the impeller kit (with Fluid Film), happy to report no paint loss in the impeller housing. Ran it around the driveway through all the gears and it worked flawlessly.

I don't think any neighbours reported me to the funny farm for blowing imaginary snow on a warm (20 C) May afternoon, I think the wife was tempted.

I really enjoyed the time spent in the garage working on this project, but with the nice weather and the end to the lockdown fast approaching, it is a good time to finish it.

I am pleased with the final results and happy that there were no unexpected surprises. I figured it was a well looked after machine that just needed a little love to get it looking and running better.

Thanks for following along, I welcome any questions or suggestions.


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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
I made a video of the machine running, sorry for the quality, no Oscar for me! :)

Full Throttle
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Idle
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Wish I had some snow to give her a work out, but here is my 1969 10000 series last winter

 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Thanks, I am looking forward to following your project, with your attention to detail so far, you will have a fantastic outcome.
 

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Nice outcome, looks great. (y)

They only other thing I would have done is put on some nice XTrac, and moved over to the Poly Roller Skids, or at least the Poly Slide skids. I have not used steel skids on any unit that comes my way in many years.
 

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Ziggy, I lurked on this one, love to follow the rebuild threads. Great work on this one, you have skills that I could only hope to match. I'm sure it will work very well for you in the years to come.
What's next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Thanks Dave, don't kid yourself, your detailed work on the Honda restoration is impressive, you will have a fantastic machine when done.

No plans for/if there will be another project, but I am always checking the ads for what's for sale in the area.

It would be an older machine (60's -80's), and probably orange, red or green in colour.:cool:
 

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Parts have arrived for the new project:
head gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets, carb kit, axle bushings, impeller bearing, spare belt, muffler and hardware, gas line.

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@Ziggy65
What motivated you to purchase a new muffler? Is it because of the age of the muffler or because it was damaged?
IMHO these Tecumseh flatheads can be quite noisy when compared to an OVH engine.
A curious guy would like to know. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
The original muffler was starting to rust out internally, I could have used it, but figured I would order a new one since I was ordering other parts at the time.
When I restored my father's 10000 series, I replaced the muffler as well. After 50 years, figured it was time.
 
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