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Discussion Starter #1
Bought this one today. Looks almost new. A little wash and an oil change is all the engines needs.
The owner said he have only used it around 8 times.
The only issue with it is that the chute control is not working properly. I guess this is what's called a quick chute with the lever moving from left to right.
It's stuck most of the time and suddenly it works again. It's both a wire going into it and a rod. Before i start taking it apart I wanted to ask if there is an easy fix to this.
Is this one of the last generations of Tecumseh engines? I noticed that it is a lot more quiet than the older engines.
 

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Get a tube of Slide Glyde at a Napa Auto, and lube between the plates on the lever. Its dry in there and over time it will start to not slide easily, from corrosion.Also take the cabel off on one end and drip some 3inOne oil into the cable and hold it up in the air, so it makes its way down to the other end, to lube the cable. Looks like a nice machine. If you take care of it, it will last you a lifetime.
 

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Very nice! Motor City, he's in Norway, but hopefully there are local sources for a suitable lubricant.



It does seem like it would be worth starting with lubrication, and working the mechanism a bunch, to see if it loosens up.



And yes, those were some of the last Tecumseh engines, they are an OHV (OverHead Valve) design, vs the older flathead, or L-head, engines. They should produce more power for a given displacement, be quieter, and use less gas, than an equivalent-power flathead engine.



You may want to check the valve clearances, while you're going through it. It's pretty easy to check and adjust, if you have flat feeler gauges. Though if it hasn't had much use, they might be fine. There is a suggested interval for checking them, it might be after 50 hours?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you guys for really fast answers.
I am fan of CRC Multi lube if that is useful on this? At least something that don't dries out like wd40.
MECA Online Norge Or this for example.
I will give it some care the next weekend and see how far i'll get.
 

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Keep the WD40 for wiping down tools and removing the gum when you peel off a sticker. As you say about it drying out, it's designed for drying out ignition systems, not as a lubricant. Present day they have come out with different formulas but the original stuff that everyone has a can of in the garage ... not a good choice (IMHO) for lubricating things.

The CRC would be a good choice as would Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease.
Nice looking machine. With a little TLC you'll be all set for snow :smiley-char060:


.
 

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There is actually replacement gears made to supposedly fix the chute issue, put it on mine but these quick chute controls have to be adjusted dead perfect to work and I personally hate it on my 1027LE but I deal with it but the rest on the machine works great.
 

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That's exactly it, I only paid about $25 though. seems prices went up. Mine was in tough shape when I got it so replaced a lot, I needed to replace the axle with the release as mine was rusted together so I spent $150 instead of $80 and put the Ariens auto turn kit in it. Yes they make one for this model. I like it also and have not had any of the issues people have had with auto turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Gave it a full service today with new oil. Cleaned out the gearbox and applied fresh grease.
Washed it with degreaser.
Lubed the chute mechanism and the lever assembly. Don't think i need to replace any parts on that for now. The only thing missing is one of the knobs on top of the controls.
Next plan is to put two 15 w led lamps on it. The original halogen light is useless.
 

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Gave it a full service today with new oil. Cleaned out the gearbox and applied fresh grease.
Washed it with degreaser.
Lubed the chute mechanism and the lever assembly. Don't think i need to replace any parts on that for now. The only thing missing is one of the knobs on top of the controls.
Next plan is to put two 15 w led lamps on it. The original halogen light is useless.

If you get it off of the bucket, the halogen light will shine a lot further. It will also throw the snow further too !


Sorry, this is American Humor...sort of !
 

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Gave it a full service today with new oil. Cleaned out the gearbox and applied fresh grease.
Washed it with degreaser.
Lubed the chute mechanism and the lever assembly. Don't think i need to replace any parts on that for now. The only thing missing is one of the knobs on top of the controls.
Next plan is to put two 15 w led lamps on it. The original halogen light is useless.
Nice pickup Rune.., all you need now is some heavy snow. Check out ebay for control knob!
 

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Hello Rune,

You will have to look at the V-belts really close to see if the rubber is crumbling off in your hands and if it is you will need new V-belts.

The rubber on the drive disc looks like its digging a trench haha, I would check the drive tire also as rubber of all types degrades over time.

You may want to put bigger jets in the carburator after you clean it to help with more power.

Stay safe, have fun with the new to you snow mule, VRRROOOOMMM.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Long time since i had time for this now. My car broke down and stuck on the workshop for three weeks with all my tools in the back. Today i put the lights on. Worked nice. I think it can handle 30 w since the original light is 20. So i didn't put a fuse on it.

Ordered a new chute angle wire or what you call it in english today and a new knob for the chute controller. Total 74 dollars.

To answer the old comments her: The belts looks slightly worn but not damaged in any way so i will let them run one more winter before i replace them. They are kind of expensive her since its with Kevlar. 90 dollars for the auger belts. The machine runs smoothly so i'm not going to touch the carburetor before it's necessary
 

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Got my 1027LE back in 2007. The turn release clutch has never worked dependably (or properly). At about the time Ariens recommended installing their auto turn kit a few years ago I finally got dependable power to the second wheel by squeezing the handlebar lever while moving in reverse. End of driveway turns are not difficult to control in lowest gear. Didn't buy the kit. Haven't touched the turn release lever since.


One other issue came up today, when I was doing pre-season maintenance. A couple of weeks ago, I found the right wheel would not hold air. Removed the wheel and put in a new tube, then greased the axle and replaced the wheel. Did the same with the other wheel. Then I removed the cover plate to get at the inside, and found a half-moon Woodruff key sitting out in the open, unconnected to anything. It was the key that locks the biggest toothed wheel onto the axle shaft, inside the housing. It was dislodged when the axle moved in and out as the wheels were taken off and replaced. Something to watch for.
 
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