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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy all. Couple questions.

I'm trying to remove my axle shaft on a 922008 tractor (1974). I got a frozen hub on the left side and the axle needs the flange bushing replaced. I can free the right side easily and have already replaced the bushing there.

It appears I can simply remove the right side again, then drive out the two roll pins, then remove the spur gear, then remove the axle through the left side - then replace the bushing and re-assemble (not to mention try freeing the hub again).

The questions are...

1) I've searched far and wide for info in doing this, and it appears I'll need to acquire a punch. There isn't a whole lot of room between the sides of the spur gear and the roll pins each side of it to get a nice "straight on shot" at these. I've soaked the pins (hollow) in place with penetrating oil just now and will let that do it's work for a couple days for these pins are in there tight. The shaft is 3/4" and the pins are 1", appears by math I got 1/8" coming out both sides of the axle, which is exactly what mine looks like.

I've looked at replacements of the pins, (Ariens 05800900) and these do not look tapered. First question is, are these indeed not tapered? And if they are tapered, how do I know if they look darn near exactly the same on each end which way to go. I get you want to drive out from thin side...they simply look exactly the same eyeballing them.

2) Next, is there a specific punch I should buy? I can get Wilde Tools 1/8" Pin Punch locally with a 5" length. It appears Harbor Freight has a set of Pittsburgh "long drive" pin punch set at 8" which would most likely give me more angle of attack so to speak...but I also am afraid of those long tips breaking off for it appears a few buyers have had the 1/8" punches break pretty easily.


I'd appreciate any tips or tricks here. These pins have probably been in there a long, long time but they do look like they've been removed before at least once.

Thanks!
 

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Howdy all. Couple questions.

1) I've searched far and wide for info in doing this, and it appears I'll need to acquire a punch. There isn't a whole lot of room between the sides of the spur gear and the roll pins each side of it to get a nice "straight on shot" at these. I've soaked the pins (hollow) in place with penetrating oil just now and will let that do it's work for a couple days for these pins are in there tight. The shaft is 3/4" and the pins are 1", appears by math I got 1/8" coming out both sides of the axle, which is exactly what mine looks like.
I don't know exactly what the assembly looks like. You will need to position the pin so it can be pressed out. You may have to remove other stuff to gain access to the pin.

I've looked at replacements of the pins, (Ariens 05800900) and these do not look tapered. First question is, are these indeed not tapered? And if they are tapered, how do I know if they look darn near exactly the same on each end which way to go. I get you want to drive out from thin side...they simply look exactly the same eyeballing them.

Roll pins are straight pins They are not tapered. Roll pins have a bevel on the ends. They are spring loaded so then compress when they are installed.

2) Next, is there a specific punch I should buy? I can get Wilde Tools 1/8" Pin Punch locally with a 5" length. It appears Harbor Freight has a set of Pittsburgh "long drive" pin punch set at 8" which would most likely give me more angle of attack so to speak...but I also am afraid of those long tips breaking off for it appears a few buyers have had the 1/8" punches break pretty easily.
Any flat punch will work to drive out the pins.

Thanks!
See my answers in red
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! After thinking on this over night, it sounds to me to be pretty straight forward. Either gonna come out, or not - and what to do if they don't.

Attached are 3 images. The assembly itself, then left side and right side pins...should have took the pin pics after I used penetrating oil on them obviously (they're there, grease partially obscuring them), but they show how the access angles are lousy as far as a straight on shot to them.

I'm hoping that considering this area has been greased up through the years that they'll hammer out freely now that I've soaked them with oil. The way I figure it, if they don't budge I can file them or use a Dremel to cut down the exposed ends, slide the spur gear, then remove everything - then with the axle on my work bench the pins would be easier to punch out.

It's 10 degrees out right now. I may not get to this until it warms up in a few days. Brrrr!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
SUCCESS!

Liquid Wrench penetrating oil does the job! Went outside to add a bit more to the soak, and decided to give the punch a couple whacks, and the pins popped right out. Those things would not budge a hair yesterday.

Axle removed, bushing out, waiting for the USPS to do their duty. Friggin' awesome!
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Bronze Axle Bushings can be bought at any Good Hardware Store.
Key word there is "good". I looked around, none to be had locally in the right size. I could order it thru them but it would have taken longer and been more expensive to do so.

My 1st mistake here was not ordering two the first time when I did the right side. Dunno what I was thinking there - I knew I had the stuck hub issue to deal with so the 2nd mistake was not recognizing that I could merely remove the axle thru the left side to get at that bushing.

Frustrating. Lesson learned.

The Ebay seller got the 1st one here quick, counting on that again. No snow forecasted next week and it'll be much warmer, so I'm good. This'll all come in handy when I do the 910962 and 910965 down the road.
 
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