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Only used 5 times and always worked great. Went out today and the auger blower not running full speed and can’t handle the load and auger stops. Engine running fine and plenty of power to drive it around, just the auger acting up. Looked at manual and will check out the linkages tomorrow. Not sure what the cause is yet. Any quick ideas of what might cause the auger to slip or stall?
I store it in an unheated garage connected to house and make sure the snow is not packed into the blower when parking it.
Thanks all.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Checked it out today and found the linkage adjuster had come loose and backed off. Took the top cover off and found the belt closest to the motor had come off. Pulled the bottom cover off to put belt back on and noticed something weird to me.

The curved bar with the brake pad seems not to be manufactured correctly. The hinge side is fixed in place with no adjustment I can see. The bar only covers one of the two belts and the brake pad only contacts one belt when actuated. Doesn’t seem proper to me. Or maybe the entire bottom pulley assembly is not located correctly as might be too close to the auger. Then again maybe it is the way it is supposed to be. Just seems strange as really there is nothing to prevent a belt from coming off a pulley when the tension is released.
 

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Can you post a picture of the belts issue? The two belts you're referring to, are they both for the augers?

If this is the brake that prevents the auger from spinning slowly when the augers lever is released, then maybe that makes sense. It's just trying to apply some drag to the augers pulley when you let go of the lever. But that brake doesn't really need to contact both belts, for instance, it's just trying to act as a brake for the augers pulley itself (down on the bucket, not at the engine).
 

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Checked it out today and found the linkage adjuster had come loose and backed off. Took the top cover off and found the belt closest to the motor had come off. Pulled the bottom cover off to put belt back on and noticed something weird to me.

The curved bar with the brake pad seems not to be manufactured correctly. The hinge side is fixed in place with no adjustment I can see. The bar only covers one of the two belts and the brake pad only contacts one belt when actuated. Doesn’t seem proper to me. Or maybe the entire bottom pulley assembly is not located correctly as might be too close to the auger. Then again maybe it is the way it is supposed to be. Just seems strange as really there is nothing to prevent a belt from coming off a pulley when the tension is released.

Post some pictures....I just went through this issue with my 921037, and have it running and working really well. The way I see this is.....if there is nothing really wrong with the brake, which I assume will be the case.....its a matter or readjusting your idler pulley ( Double pulley below the main large drive), you'll need to push it inwards to the middle). My belts were not running true. Now they run great.:icon-wwp:
 

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Checked it out today and found the linkage adjuster had come loose and backed off. Took the top cover off and found the belt closest to the motor had come off. Pulled the bottom cover off to put belt back on and noticed something weird to me.

The curved bar with the brake pad seems not to be manufactured correctly. The hinge side is fixed in place with no adjustment I can see. The bar only covers one of the two belts and the brake pad only contacts one belt when actuated. Doesn’t seem proper to me. Or maybe the entire bottom pulley assembly is not located correctly as might be too close to the auger. Then again maybe it is the way it is supposed to be. Just seems strange as really there is nothing to prevent a belt from coming off a pulley when the tension is released.
On my new Deluxe 24 I found the brake bar was touching the pulley even when the clutch was fully engaged, tension on cable correct..I removed the bar and had to bend it slightly , and now works properly,,it does rest on only one of the two belts..I also made the idler more tight on the belts, as the factory setting is too loose...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The picture Cutter posted is exactly how mine looks from the top.
As Snowjoe sas his is describes mine too from the bottom. It just would seem that to prevent or restrict the chance of a belt coming off the pulley it would simply use the curved brake bar to cover both belts not just one. I guess it is as designed.
If I get a chance tomorrow I will drop the bottom pan and take a picture.
Thank you all!
Pete
 

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Peter, the thin rounded bar in Cutters picture at the drive shaft is the belt guide or whatever they call it to prevent the 2 belts from coming off...Its adjustable by the 2 anchor bolts that hold it in place... Make sure when the clutch is engaged the belts don't touch the bar, or it will wear them out..
 

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Pull plug wire!! What I do on the Ariens is start by squaring the blower housing to the tractor first.
Then using the the adjustments on the Idler pulleys ( Bolt holding Idler pulley) I adjust the idlers to take up any slack until you achieve specs for belt play. I do this by engaging the the auger drive handle and use a helper or a clamp to hold it in place then adjust belt tension using the idler pulley bolt to spec. Then do the same for the drive pulley.
Then adjust the metal belt guard/guide at the top of both main pulleys to the specs belt clearance.
You still may have to final adjust your cables.

All of this information you can find online and is a little clearer in description that just the printed owners manual.
A lot of the manuals do not even tell you to adjust the idler pulleys they tell you to adjust the cables.
 

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Pull plug wire!! What I do on the Ariens is start by squaring the blower housing to the tractor first.
Then using the the adjustments on the Idler pulleys ( Bolt holding Idler pulley) I adjust the idlers to take up any slack until you achieve specs for belt play. I do this by engaging the the auger drive handle and use a helper or a clamp to hold it in place then adjust belt tension using the idler pulley bolt to spec. Then do the same for the drive pulley.
Then adjust the metal belt guard/guide at the top of both main pulleys to the specs belt clearance.
You still may have to final adjust your cables.

All of this information you can find online and is a little clearer in description that just the printed owners manual.
A lot of the manuals do not even tell you to adjust the idler pulleys they tell you to adjust the cables.

True enough....I spent quite a bit of time on You Tube watching videos, and alot of them that are on there are from Ariens themselves. Mix that with some experience from other guys who know this stuff, and you'll be able to adjust your machine like a pro. :smile2:
 
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