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Discussion Starter #1
Need to put it away for the 'summer' but service manual PDF does not give a general maintenance checklist.
Is there a list/link somewhere you can point me to?

-Oil change (of course)
-Non-ethanol fuel stabilized (I add Stabil whenever I fill up the gas can at the pump)
-Remove wheels apply antiseize to axle
-Grease zerks on rake shafts. Do folks just use Ariens grease? (Dont really want to buy another separate grease gun but -machine is used in the cold so is specific grease preferred?)
-The lube in gear case should be fine unless folks change that every year (?)
-Lube any pivot points- what type of spray lube is preferred? Like many I have several cans of X, Y and Z.
-Touch up paint for any rock chips, what is best? Does Ariens sell a touch up paint that is simple/cheap?

Wanted a checklist if someone can point me to a post somewhere. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Disregard. strange. finding this info in the 'operators manual' but not offhand in the 'service manual'. I thought it would be IN the service manual (as it is for every other machine I own) as its performing a routine "service".
 

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Utube has this covered by the numbers, from simple maintenance to summer storage preps....Good luck.
 

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I just park my seven blowers in my lower garage. I do not do anything special to them, as I maintain them throughout the years.

I always put Stabil and half the rate of SeaFoam in all my 5 gallon gas cans when I fill them, and never had an issue in all my life with fuel.

I do periodically run all my equipment throughout the year, just to keep things moving.

I do have cans of spray paint from restorations. If you need just a touch up, spray a small amount in the cap, and use a small art brush from a water color kit or even an old make-up brush.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Utube has this covered by the numbers, from simple maintenance to summer storage preps....Good luck.
yea, found one on removing the bottom cover but despite the guy greasing the zerk he did not oil the chain inside. from the 'operators manual' this was/is part of maintenance (?). Dunno. Will keep looking.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just park my seven blowers in my lower garage. I do not do anything special to them, as I maintain them throughout the years.

I always put Stabil and half the rate of SeaFoam in all my 5 gallon gas cans when I fill them, and never had an issue in all my life with fuel.

I do periodically run all my equipment throughout the year, just to keep things moving.

I do have cans of spray paint from restorations. If you need just a touch up, spray a small amount in the cap, and use a small art brush from a water color kit or even an old make-up brush.
(y) I do the same w/ my gas cans. At a minimum, that and an oil change and hitting the zerks. Will prob have to splurge on a $10 can of their spraypaint. Just wanted to touch up chips (gravel driveway)

Unclear what kind or weight of oil the manual refers to for the chain....chainsaws use a specific bar-oil for their chain. I'd guess basic engine oil, but maybe need to read the forum more to see what most guys suggest.

167417
 

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(y) I do the same w/ my gas cans. At a minimum, that and an oil change and hitting the zerks. Will prob have to splurge on a $10 can of their spraypaint. Just wanted to touch up chips (gravel driveway)

Unclear what kind or weight of oil the manual refers to for the chain....chainsaws use a specific bar-oil for their chain. I'd guess basic engine oil, but maybe need to read the forum more to see what most guys suggest.

View attachment 167417
Ariens sell a touch-up paint in a small container with a small brush in the screw cap. It is ideal for small areas. I have that and the spray paint can.

Motor cycle chain lube is often recommended for snowblower chains since it gets into the rollers and tacky enough to stay put.
 

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this video (to me) is far better. I like how he lubes the hex shaft.

When the instructor has the right wheel removed he said to grease the zerk. That zerk does not lubricate the shifter it lubricates the pinion shaft where the chain is mounted and the gear drive to the differential. One shot of grease may not be enough. So have the wheel removed with the trans pan cover also removed. When you grease the zerk look for grease at the pinion shaft where the gear drive and chain drive is located. Usually 2 or 3 pumps required.

If you have Autoturn then the axle is in two parts. The long axle enters from left side and goes all the way to right side. Over that right side is the outer axle that the splined end fits into the differential and a circlip holds the outer short axle onto the long axle. The outer short axle needs to be removed to grease there since Autoturn in turns moves one axle relative to the other. The outer short axle just pulls out of the differential when circlip removed but to re-install the washer between the differential and spacer must be raised a little to allow the splined end to insert into the differential.

The bearing on the impeller shaft was not discussed but it can deteriorate in short time with the power of the 414 AX engine powering through heavy snow. The normal test is to try to move the impeller shaft in the bucket up and down. This test works well for bushings but not for bearings when they are just starting to fail. I generally separate the bucket from the engine and chassis and remove the parts to inspect the bearing. Bearings last me about 2 years, but I work my machine hard. It is much nicer doing this in the spring when I have time and nice temperatures than in the winter with very cold temperatures and several driveways that cannot be blown out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
When the instructor has the right wheel removed he said to grease the zerk. That zerk does not lubricate the shifter it lubricates the pinion shaft where the chain is mounted and the gear drive to the differential. One shot of grease may not be enough. So have the wheel removed with the trans pan cover also removed. When you grease the zerk look for grease at the pinion shaft where the gear drive and chain drive is located. Usually 2 or 3 pumps required.

If you have Autoturn then the axle is in two parts. The long axle enters from left side and goes all the way to right side. Over that right side is the outer axle that the splined end fits into the differential and a circlip holds the outer short axle onto the long axle. The outer short axle needs to be removed to grease there since Autoturn in turns moves one axle relative to the other. The outer short axle just pulls out of the differential when circlip removed but to re-install the washer between the differential and spacer must be raised a little to allow the splined end to insert into the differential.

The bearing on the impeller shaft was not discussed but it can deteriorate in short time with the power of the 414 AX engine powering through heavy snow. The normal test is to try to move the impeller shaft in the bucket up and down. This test works well for bushings but not for bearings when they are just starting to fail. I generally separate the bucket from the engine and chassis and remove the parts to inspect the bearing. Bearings last me about 2 years, but I work my machine hard. It is much nicer doing this in the spring when I have time and nice temperatures than in the winter with very cold temperatures and several driveways that cannot be blown out.
other video shows what that zerk greases. Thanks.

I see Ariens grease, but, hate to have a separate grease gun solely for a snowblower & dont really want to be swapping tubes in and out of grease guns (gets messy, done it).

What kind of grease are most folks using? Mobil 1 synthetic grease is easy to find locally, temp range is -40 to 300 or so (F). Then I could also use this for my lawnmower and other items. Or Amsoil Synth Grease tho harder to find.

Also, pulling wheels. Have read to grease the axle OR use anti-seize. which is preferred?

Thanks.
 

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I like no-seize on the axles, but either is much better than doing nothing.

Mobil 1 grease should be fine. No need to have a different grease gun for each OPE. Just a marketing gimmick IMHO.
 

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Need to put it away for the 'summer' but service manual PDF does not give a general maintenance checklist.
Is there a list/link somewhere you can point me to?

-Oil change (of course)
-Non-ethanol fuel stabilized (I add Stabil whenever I fill up the gas can at the pump)
-Remove wheels apply antiseize to axle
-Grease zerks on rake shafts. Do folks just use Ariens grease? (Dont really want to buy another separate grease gun but -machine is used in the cold so is specific grease preferred?)
-The lube in gear case should be fine unless folks change that every year (?)
-Lube any pivot points- what type of spray lube is preferred? Like many I have several cans of X, Y and Z.
-Touch up paint for any rock chips, what is best? Does Ariens sell a touch up paint that is simple/cheap?

Wanted a checklist if someone can point me to a post somewhere. Thanks.
I’ve had my Ariens Pro 32” for about 15 years now and I don’t do any of that at the beginning of the summer. Why change the oil just to let it sit for 3 or 4 months? The only thing I do is syphon the excess gas from the tank directly into my truck and then put her away.

Then around October I do an oil change and use the same silicone based grease that I use on my John Deere tractor. Fill it up with gas, pump up the tires, look for any loose bolts and away we go. Runs like the day I brought it home.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’ve had my Ariens Pro 32” for about 15 years now and I don’t do any of that at the beginning of the summer. Why change the oil just to let it sit for 3 or 4 months? The only thing I do is syphon the excess gas from the tank directly into my truck and then put her away.

Then around October I do an oil change and use the same silicone based grease that I use on my John Deere tractor. Fill it up with gas, pump up the tires, look for any loose bolts and away we go. Runs like the day I brought it home.
to me its no different then winterizing my Harley. I always change the main fluids & treat the fuel for storage.
why would I not do the same w/ a snowblower during summer? The point of the oil change at storage is so its ready to fire immediately at first snowfall, and I don't want old used oil containing contaminants sitting in the machine for 6+ months waiting for winter again.

siphoning gas & running it dry is not something I'd ever do. It can cause deposits to form in the carb among other issues like rust inside the metal tank. This is my experience w/ carbed HDs. Treated non-eth fuel full up.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I like no-seize on the axles, but either is much better than doing nothing.

Mobil 1 grease should be fine. No need to have a different grease gun for each OPE. Just a marketing gimmick IMHO.
local Amsoil dealer a town over, going to pick up some synth waterproof grease today or tomorrow. I can use that on my other vehicles too. Have couple grease guns w/ diff greases but would be far nicer to have just one grease I could use for diff vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Feels like a lot of hopping around to find materials.

Do most folks change the synth gear lube each year?

Maintenance chart says 'check' but I see no replacement interval (unless I'm just missing it)

How much does it take? (volume) not seeing this in an obvious place in the operators manual yet (that would determine how much one buys)

Local Ariens shop doesn't even stock the L3 lube.
 

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Feels like a lot of hopping around to find materials.

Do most folks change the synth gear lube each year?

Maintenance chart says 'check' but I see no replacement interval (unless I'm just missing it)

How much does it take? (volume) not seeing this in an obvious place in the operators manual yet (that would determine how much one buys)

Local Ariens shop doesn't even stock the L3 lube.
It is a thick oil. No need to replace it, because it is a sealed system. Also, it is not crucial like engine oil I think. It does lost oil over time, so you do need to top it up. My Ariens snowblower is over 10 years old and oil came out of it looked okay and plentiful.

Your snowblower has steel gears, so you don't have to worry about acidic oil damaging it. Some gear oil turn acidic overtime. For that reason, if you have a brass gear, then you will have to change it once in a while, or use a specific/special gear oil by Ariens. They said, the new stuff does not turn acidic.
 

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I would also mix it with a little bit of AT-205 to help rejuvenate the rubber seals. Mine is leaking a little, so I'm adding AT-205 in it. I just used Walmart gear oil.
 

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Some people pack grease in there instead, but I like gear oil better. oil helps lube, and cool down better.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Packing grease (?) into there sounds like it could damage the machine and would certainly void any warranty. Unclear why anyone would do that.

As the gearbox is a machined part, I'd have to guess after the first few uses there could be metal shavings in the L3 gear oil so doing a simple fluid swap after the first season makes sense to me. There is a drain plug on top of it to access the fluid.
 
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