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Discussion Starter #1
Hello snow blower owners,
I picked up a used Ariens snow blower this summer for under a $150.00.s. The owner was moving to Florida from the Buffalo area and was selling everything. In any event, I waited to the last day and made an offer which we both could live with. the snow blower is approximately 13 years old and has electric start.
I actually have two questions/concerns. The first is - after I prime the snow blower, gas (1 X prime) is coming out of the carburetor area, is this normal? The other concern, which I can live with this winter, is the lock differential hub. It works - in locked mode and unlocked mode but when the blower is idling it creeps backward, shouldn't it remain stationary?
Thanks for any help,
Tim
 

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When you hit the primer bulb it in essence pushes some raw gas into the throat of the carb. Push enough in there and it can run out. If the friction disc is pressing against the friction plate, it will move the blower. Sounds like you have some adjusting to do on the unit IMO.
 

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with tecumseh engines gas dripping like that is normal, in my opinion its a poor design and i always thought there should be a little bowl undeneath the intake like many 2 stroke engines have. just make sure it only leaks when primed or when being rolled backwards shortly after being primed without being started, any other leaking is not normal
 

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with tecumseh engines gas dripping like that is normal, in my opinion its a poor design and i always thought there should be a little bowl undeneath the intake like many 2 stroke engines have. just make sure it only leaks when primed or when being rolled backwards shortly after being primed without being started, any other leaking is not normal
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I was thinking the same thing concerning the drips. Since it is somewhat normal I guess - I will try to come up with some way of catching it. This only happens when I prime the unit.
 

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When you hit the primer bulb it in essence pushes some raw gas into the throat of the carb. Push enough in there and it can run out. If the friction disc is pressing against the friction plate, it will move the blower. Sounds like you have some adjusting to do on the unit IMO.
Thanks for the help. I will check out friction disc - but with the snow blower in forward drive, it should move forward, not backward, I'm assuming.
 

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Hello snow blower owners,
.......
The other concern, which I can live with this winter, is the lock differential hub. It works - in locked mode and unlocked mode but when the blower is idling it creeps backward, shouldn't it remain stationary?
Thanks for any help,
Tim
Here is a link for parts diagrams for your machine: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ariens-924086-007050-st1028-10hp-snowblower-parts-c-157125_157126_157436.html

Your machine should remain stationary in neutral with the engine running, and also any gear if the clutch lever is not pressed. If the machine backs up while idling in neutral then you probably have two adjustments to make. The rubber tired disc is not centered over the drive plate and the clutch that moves the drive plate into contact with the rubber tired disc does not have enough play or the return spring is broken or damaged.

Your machine will have a plate on the underside of the chassis that can be removed when the 6 screws are removed. So first ensure there is very little gas in the tank and lift the handles so the machine rests on the auger housing. Remove the chassis plate with the 6 or so screws. You will see the round drive plate and the rubber tired driven disc that crosses over the face of the drive plate when the gear shifter is moved from reverse to highest gear. Put the gear shift in neutral. The driven rubber tired disc should be in the middle of the drive disc. If not adjust the gear shift rod (lengthen or shorten the adjustment) so that the rubber tired drive disc is over the center (usually visible by a circle) of the drive plate. So now when going into reverse the driven disc should be a little to one side of center. Then move the gear shift to the highest gear and it should move the driven disc all the way to the other side of center.

Next check for a small space between drive plate and driven disc by pulling and pushing the drive plate toward the rubber tired driven disc and away from it. There should be a small 1/8" of free play and a spring should pull the driven plate away from the driven disc. If there is no spring return for the drive plate then the spring is not working and needs to be replaced. The spring is usually attached to the same rod as the clutch wire and the other end of spring is attached to the chassis (should be able to see it on outside of chassis). To adjust the free play the wire from the wheel drive clutch needs to be adjusted. There should be a barrel nut and a locknut in the wire from clutch handle before it enters the chassis. Adjust that barrel nut to give some free play in the lever which will allow the gap between the drive plate and the driven disc to be 1/8" or so.

Good luck.
 

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Tim,
Just FYI, your snowblower is probably 23 years old, not 13! ;)
Not that it really matters..age can be irrelevant with snowblowers if they are well cared for.

If you want, look for the Tecumseh engine tag on the side of the engine, and post all the numbers on the tag..that can give us the exact model year. Also post the model and serial numbers from the Ariens tag at the rear of the machine, and we can find the manuals.

Scot
 

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shouldnt leak after 1 prime imo, maybe time for a carb clean/teardown as that fixed my 30yr old craftsman tecumseh 10hp that sat neglected for yrs w/gas in the system. all my carb passages were plugged
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is a link for parts diagrams for your machine: https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ariens-924086-007050-st1028-10hp-snowblower-parts-c-157125_157126_157436.html

Your machine should remain stationary in neutral with the engine running, and also any gear if the clutch lever is not pressed. If the machine backs up while idling in neutral then you probably have two adjustments to make. The rubber tired disc is not centered over the drive plate and the clutch that moves the drive plate into contact with the rubber tired disc does not have enough play or the return spring is broken or damaged.

Your machine will have a plate on the underside of the chassis that can be removed when the 6 screws are removed. So first ensure there is very little gas in the tank and lift the handles so the machine rests on the auger housing. Remove the chassis plate with the 6 or so screws. You will see the round drive plate and the rubber tired driven disc that crosses over the face of the drive plate when the gear shifter is moved from reverse to highest gear. Put the gear shift in neutral. The driven rubber tired disc should be in the middle of the drive disc. If not adjust the gear shift rod (lengthen or shorten the adjustment) so that the rubber tired drive disc is over the center (usually visible by a circle) of the drive plate. So now when going into reverse the driven disc should be a little to one side of center. Then move the gear shift to the highest gear and it should move the driven disc all the way to the other side of center.

Next check for a small space between drive plate and driven disc by pulling and pushing the drive plate toward the rubber tired driven disc and away from it. There should be a small 1/8" of free play and a spring should pull the driven plate away from the driven disc. If there is no spring return for the drive plate then the spring is not working and needs to be replaced. The spring is usually attached to the same rod as the clutch wire and the other end of spring is attached to the chassis (should be able to see it on outside of chassis). To adjust the free play the wire from the wheel drive clutch needs to be adjusted. There should be a barrel nut and a locknut in the wire from clutch handle before it enters the chassis. Adjust that barrel nut to give some free play in the lever which will allow the gap between the drive plate and the driven disc to be 1/8" or so.

Good luck.

Hello Town,


Thank you so much for the detailed response. I am on it tomorrow. We both experience some serious snow storms and I like to be ready. Lake effect snow in the Buffalo, N.Y. area can be a real problem. I have 3 snow blowers ready for duty!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tim,
Just FYI, your snowblower is probably 23 years old, not 13! ;)
Not that it really matters..age can be irrelevant with snowblowers if they are well cared for.

If you want, look for the Tecumseh engine tag on the side of the engine, and post all the numbers on the tag..that can give us the exact model year. Also post the model and serial numbers from the Ariens tag at the rear of the machine, and we can find the manuals.

Scot
Thank you sscotsman for your reply - yes I can get that information. Off the top of my head, I have an Ariens ST28 - model #924086. On the Engine I recall a number indicating year 2004, month April - I will recheck. The previous owner also said the snow blower was 13 years old. It looks to be in pretty good shape considering the Lake Effect Snow we have to deal with! So glad to get a response from a WNY'er., I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. I have 2 other snow blowers ready to go!!!
 

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Thank you sscotsman for your reply - yes I can get that information. Off the top of my head, I have an Ariens ST28 - model #924086. On the Engine I recall a number indicating year 2004, month April - I will recheck. The previous owner also said the snow blower was 13 years old. It looks to be in pretty good shape considering the Lake Effect Snow we have to deal with! So glad to get a response from a WNY'er., I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. I have 2 other snow blowers ready to go!!!
Just added the Impeller mods to this Ariens snow blower and am looking forward to the Lake Effect Snow that will be heading our way.
FWI, I did the mod on my 10 HP Craftsman - WOW, what a difference. Big thanks to Sixtyfive Ford and Avi on YouTube - they were outstanding in their videos!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
my Ariens ST1028 13years old or 23years old?

Tim,
Just FYI, your snowblower is probably 23 years old, not 13! ;)
Not that it really matters..age can be irrelevant with snowblowers if they are well cared for.

If you want, look for the Tecumseh engine tag on the side of the engine, and post all the numbers on the tag..that can give us the exact model year. Also post the model and serial numbers from the Ariens tag at the rear of the machine, and we can find the manuals.

Scot
Hello Scot, not sure if my last message got through. I am including 2 photos of Ariens snow blower I got at a garage sale this past summer. I have included the tag from the Tecumseh Engine, maybe you let me know if it is 13years old or 23years old - I am not sure.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Ariens Snow Blower

Hello Scot, not sure if my last message got through. I am including 2 photos of Ariens snow blower I got at a garage sale this past summer. I have included the tag from the Tecumseh Engine, maybe you let me know if it is 13years old or 23years old - I am not sure.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Tim
Scot, It says on the blower ST1028 - model number 924086
 

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Thanks for the numbers Tim!
You have a 1995 Ariens model 924086.

You definitely have a snowblower made in 1994, not 2004.
23 years old, not 13 years old.
(2018 model year machines are out right now)

There are several ways we can tell its 1994 and not 2004.

1. Tecumseh started using a 2-digit year code in 2004, so if it was 2004 the date code would say "04" for 2004.
But your engine has the old-style single-digit date code, 4144D, which says the engine was assembled at Tecumseh on "the 144th day of a year ending in 4"
"year ending in 4" in Tecumseh-speak could mean 1964, 1974, 1984 or 1994. We can tell its 1994 because of the snowblower the engine is attached to.

2. Ariens model 924086 was made in 1994, 1995 and 1996:
https://scotlawrence.github.io/ariens/Page7.html

924086.- ST1028.-..10HP 28" -(first appears in 1994, still listed in 1996.)

Ariens generally makes the same model for 1, 2 or 3 years..maybe rarely 4 years in a row, but seldom more than three.
There is a 0% chance they made the same model from 1994 to 2004. ;)

3. Your owners manuals are dated 1993 to 1996:

Owners manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/02402800H.pdf

Parts manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/PM-24-93.pdf

This manual is dated year 2000, but it includes models 924080 through 924326, which were made from 1992 to 2000:
Service manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/00040600.pdf

So, there is no doubt about it, you definitely have a 1994 machine! ;)
which, as I said before, really isnt a big deal at all; 23 years old vs. 13 years old can be pretty meaningless, if the machine is in good shape and has been well cared for, which it looks like yours has..

The engine was made on "the 144th day of a year ending in 4", which we know is 1994.
the 144th day of the year is May 24. Thats definitely early enough that the engine made it onto your snowblower that same season.
The engine was made in May, shipped to Ariens, who placed it on your snowblower, which then went on sale in the Autumn of 1994 as a 1995 model.

You have a 1995 Ariens model 924086. (technically made in 1994, but its a 1995 model year machine.)
2018 model year is out right now, so it's 23 years old.

Nice looking machine! looks like its in great shape.

Scot
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thanks for the numbers Tim!
You have a 1995 Ariens model 924086.

You definitely have a snowblower made in 1994, not 2004.
23 years old, not 13 years old.
(2018 model year machines are out right now)

There are several ways we can tell its 1994 and not 2004.

1. Tecumseh started using a 2-digit year code in 2004, so if it was 2004 the date code would say "04" for 2004.
But your engine has the old-style single-digit date code, 4144D, which says the engine was assembled at Tecumseh on "the 144th day of a year ending in 4"
"year ending in 4" in Tecumseh-speak could mean 1964, 1974, 1984 or 1994. We can tell its 1994 because of the snowblower the engine is attached to.

2. Ariens model 924086 was made in 1994, 1995 and 1996:
https://scotlawrence.github.io/ariens/Page7.html

924086.- ST1028.-..10HP 28" -(first appears in 1994, still listed in 1996.)

Ariens generally makes the same model for 1, 2 or 3 years..maybe rarely 4 years in a row, but seldom more than three.
There is a 0% chance they made the same model from 1994 to 2004. ;)

3. Your owners manuals are dated 1993 to 1996:

Owners manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/02402800H.pdf

Parts manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/PM-24-93.pdf

This manual is dated year 2000, but it includes models 924080 through 924326, which were made from 1992 to 2000:
Service manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/00040600.pdf

So, there is no doubt about it, you definitely have a 1994 machine! ;)
which, as I said before, really isnt a big deal at all; 23 years old vs. 13 years old can be pretty meaningless, if the machine is in good shape and has been well cared for, which it looks like yours has..

The engine was made on "the 144th day of a year ending in 4", which we know is 1994.
the 144th day of the year is May 24. Thats definitely early enough that the engine made it onto your snowblower that same season.
The engine was made in May, shipped to Ariens, who placed it on your snowblower, which then went on sale in the Autumn of 1994 as a 1995 model.

You have a 1995 Ariens model 924086. (technically made in 1994, but its a 1995 model year machine.)
2018 model year is out right now, so it's 23 years old.

Nice looking machine! looks like its in great shape.

Scot
Thanks Scot for solving the puzzle. I appreciate all the links for manuals and parts. Can you think of anything I should check out on this blower. Going through 23 Buffalo winters, I imagine somethings need looking at.


Thanks again, Scot
 

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Thanks Scot for solving the puzzle. I appreciate all the links for manuals and parts. Can you think of anything I should check out on this blower. Going through 23 Buffalo winters, I imagine somethings need looking at.


Thanks again, Scot
Nothing specific to this model, just "the usual" annual maintance.
Grease the transmission, I use white lithium grease in a spray can. Grease anything that moves *except* the round flat platter of the friction disk, and the wheel that contacts it..those must remain dry and free of grease.

Check the condition of the rubber friction wheel, check for any loose bearings.


Grease the augers: remove the shear pins, use a grease gun to apply grease into the zerks, apply grease until it oozes out the ends, spin the augers to spread the grease around, put the shear pins back. Make sure they are real shear pins, and not just regular bolts.

I would do a lube replace of the auger gearbox. You dont need to do that every year, but since you dont know if it has *ever* been done, now would be a good time. Im not sure what gearbox lube you need, it should be in one of the manuals.

Scot
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Nothing specific to this model, just "the usual" annual maintance.
Grease the transmission, I use white lithium grease in a spray can. Grease anything that moves *except* the round flat platter of the friction disk, and the wheel that contacts it..those must remain dry and free of grease.

Check the condition of the rubber friction wheel, check for any loose bearings.

https://youtu.be/sfMEgVIFLoY

Grease the augers: remove the shear pins, use a grease gun to apply grease into the zerks, apply grease until it oozes out the ends, spin the augers to spread the grease around, put the shear pins back. Make sure they are real shear pins, and not just regular bolts.

I would do a lube replace of the auger gearbox. You dont need to do that every year, but since you dont know if it has *ever* been done, now would be a good time. Im not sure what gearbox lube you need, it should be in one of the manuals.

Scot
Thanks again, Scot. I will get on those details. I greased the auger assembly real good. Nice historical reference of all the Arien machines, thanks for that. I have always wanted to have one of these machines and now I have one. Best of luck this winter. Curious what part of WNY are you battling snow from.
Tim
 
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