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Hi all, long time lurker here and decided to finally make an account due to some issues I can't solve and it's driving me crazy. My ariens deluxe 24 is a year old and will start fine and run no problem. 10-15 minutes into blowing snow it will stall and will not restart no matter what I do. It'll backfire and pop when trying to restart it but that's the most I can get out of it. If I let it sit over night it'll start up no problem. I've tried loosening the gas cap so that it's barely on and running it thinking it could be a vacuum related issue in the gas tank but that failed to be the culprit as the same thing happened. Any ideas? I greatly appreciate it.
 

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Welcome to the forum!

Basic questions for this kind of issue:
- do you still have spark after it stalls?
- if you spray some gas/starting fluid/etc into the carb's throat, will it re-start briefly?

Understanding whether it's a fuel problem, or ignition, will help figure out a resolution.

Have you checked your valve clearances? If you have a compression tester, you could check compression when cold, and after it stalls. If a valve's clearance is too small, and is being held-open after the engine gets hot, that could cause trouble.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to the forum!

Basic questions for this kind of issue:
- do you still have spark after it stalls?
- if you spray some gas/starting fluid/etc into the carb's throat, will it re-start briefly?

Understanding whether it's a fuel problem, or ignition, will help figure out a resolution.

Have you checked your valve clearances? If you have a compression tester, you could check compression when cold, and after it stalls. If a valve's clearance is too small, and is being held-open after the engine gets hot, that could cause trouble.
First off, thank you!

It does still have spark after it stalls, I've pulled the spark plug and bumped the electric start to confirm that. It will not restart with starting fluid or gas sprayed into the carb either. The most I can get out of it in terms of restarting is a constant backfire (popping). I haven't checked the valve clearances, I have an ariens service center in town that I could bring it to under warranty if it does end up being the valve clearances.
 

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If you have spark, and it won't start even with starting fluid, plus you're getting backfiring, my guess would be valve clearances.

In a pinch (if a storm was coming, the dealer is busy for weeks, etc), checking and setting OHV valve clearances is usually pretty straightforward, if you have flat feeler gauges. But if you can get it to the dealer easily, then sure, that's what the warranty is for.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you have spark, and it won't start even with starting fluid, plus you're getting backfiring, my guess would be valve clearances.

In a pinch (if a storm was coming, the dealer is busy for weeks, etc), checking and setting OHV valve clearances is usually pretty straightforward, if you have flat feeler gauges. But if you can get it to the dealer easily, then sure, that's what the warranty is for.
I'm just not sure if the spark I'm getting is strong/hot enough. I'll have to look into the OHV clearances as I've never done it before.
 

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Am inline spark tester, if available, might help show if you're still getting spark under compression. Which is more difficult than getting spark with the plug removed.

One thing I'll do to test for weak spark is to close the plug gap down. Maybe go to half the normal gap, for instance, or smaller. The spark won't be ideal, but a smaller gap is easier to jump.

If it suddenly keeps running, or runs significantly longer, that could be consistent with a spark that's getting weak.

Replacing the plug is also an inexpensive test. At worst, you have a spare plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Am inline spark tester, if available, might help show if you're still getting spark under compression. Which is more difficult than getting spark with the plug removed.

One thing I'll do to treat for weak spark is to close the plug gap down. Maybe go to half the normal gap, for instance. The spark won't be ideal, but a smaller gap is easier to jump.

If it suddenly keeps running, or runs significantly longer, that could be consistent with a spark that's getting weak.

Replacing the plug is also an inexpensive test. At worst, you have a spare plug.
I'll give it a shot and report back. I have replaced the plug (bought a 2 pack, now I have 3 plugs ha) as I thought that may have been the culprit yet that didn't solve it either.
 

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Check the multiple pin connector wiring under the handle bar dash area. Mine was doing the same thing. The dealer found the issue. He said it was not making a good connection. He used some contact cleaner and dialectic grease on the connection. it solved the problem.....
 

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Welcome Lurker!! aka/ Tuck
I would have to ask about your fuel, as I am seeing many blowers coming in running like crap after they warm up. The cause high moisture / water in the fuel that freezes at night and becomes ice / especially the float bowl and the engine starts and runs fine cold but as it warms up the ice melts and the water starts playing havoc in the carb and in the tank, I have even seen water drops on the spark plug , so I would check fuel and your float bowl.
 
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