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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

I Just bought the Ariens Deluxe 28 (921030) with Ariens AX 254cc engine from home depot.


It was put together quite poorly, but mostly minor stuff i would like to bounce off you guys (hopefully without sounding like a complaining rant)

The shift linkage was way off, no biggy I corrected it but where it connects (where you insert a cotter pin) its very sloppy and raddling when running. Is there supposed to be a nylon/plastic bushing here? I put a greased up washer on which helped.


The oil cap also has about 1/8th inch of slop where it connects to the stick...something is missing here for sure, I also added stainless steel washers to eliminate the slop.
The plastic cap is also cross threaded...



The shoot rotation was over tightened, I loosened the nut to a satisfactory resistance but its very loud...again not a big deal but can I grease this to prevent screeching when i turn the shoot? I'm not sure what material these washers are.

A few other small things like ski shoes were not adjusted properly, cables not in the clamps, cable to engage drive was not adjusted.

So nothing here is a big deal everything adjusted, it starts and runs, however I am wondering what could go wrong with this since it looks like someone slammed it together and I may not get to use it until its too late.

I mean, who knows what oil they put in it (yes it had oil)

Someone here recommended running new machines for a bit then changing the oil anyway... I supposed ill do that. Anything else I should look for or be concerned with before its too late? The blades have grease on the nipples so someone greased it already.

Also please share your thoughts on this machine and engine

thanks
Nick
 

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Perhaps return it and ask for one still in the box? Also, you are suppose to remove the shear bolts and spin the augers after greasing them. No way to know if they did that or not. As for your oil cap dip stick, I had a Tecumseh that was loose like that. After I tightened it I could no longer put the cap on. I think it was designed loose on purpose so the dipstick can stay stationary in the fill tube while the cap is tightened. That was a Tecumseh so Briggs could be different though.
 

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Welcome to the forum ctswf! As far as the oil goes, my dealer recommended to use mine for 10 hours and then change the oil, using pure synthetic 5W30. I think your manual will likely bear that out. To bad about the sub-standard assembly. Nothing worse than having to start pulling wrenches on a brand new machine, before you can even use it.
Good luck.
Larry
 

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I'd return it and go buy one from an independent Ariens dealer. From my experience the prices are as good or better and the service makes it an absolute no brainer.
 

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For what it's worth, mine came from a dealer and all of the grease fittings, important fasteners, and things that would need adjusting or checking were marked with a grease pencil. Easy to remove, but it made me confident that the tech who assembled my machine had a system going, to make sure that everything had been checked and double checked. Good piece of mind for me.
 

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I just put together the same machine for my brother in law two weeks ago. Same complaints. The oil fill almost cross threads trying to get in on there, but the dipstick does need to be loose under the cap so it doesn't spin as you tighten it down. Would leave that alone. Also, (and I'm not trying to slight you in any way blue hill) his had chalk marks all over it too out of the box, so I think they are on there from Ariens factory, not the local dealer who assembles them. Honestly, I wanted him to buy it in the box so I knew it was put together right me, it gives you a chance to really go over the machine, like you did too, and find things to tweak and make it yours. All in all I think it's good machine you have, and with a little help here and there you can make a little better. I wouldn't return it though as the next one is likely going to be the same. And it came with oil from the factory, I had to add a few ounces though.
 

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Just had my P24 delivered today...bitter sweet experience. It was ordered online through Home Depot it automatically shipped to a local service center for assembly and adjustments. Well, it got assembled but that was about it.

Had to properly adjust both auger and drive cables. The skid plate and skid shoes were a disaster. Machine would tip diagonally on nearly perfect level ground even after the shoes were released. I had to adjust the skid plate slightly higher on one side to get things to even out. Now it seems the skid plate is nearly level and the machine doesn't tip. Problem is the skid shoes aren't quite even from side to side...not exactly sure whats going on with all that.

Now, the big issue...I pop off the pulley cover and find this.


Called the dealer, sent them this pic, and the tech said, "Yea, sometimes we see them like this. It shouldn't be an issue, but we'll order a couple new ones and install them for you if you'd like." Ironic that in the same sentence they dismiss the problem and offer to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Holy cannoli look at that belt! I haven't looked at mine yet.

I got a chance to test out the machine a few times, so far it's been great.

Ray thanks for pointing out the dipstick needs to be loose, and mine also had the same chalk marks described.

This machine ate and spit out a newspaper whole, sending it about 30 feet. Now if only it holds up for years to come I will be quite happy with my purchase :)
 

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I just bought the 921030 about a week ago from a local dealer and mine had the grease pencil marks on it also. I thought the same thing that they did the marks during setup but after reading here a few more came that way it appears that's done at the factory during assembly . mine came with oil in it but I'm guessing that was done at the factory also because both units I checked had the oil level the same, about 1/3 up from add to full. I had them fill it to the top level before I took it home. upon inspection I questioned how good a job they did setting the machine up. I thought my traction cable was too loose and the auger drive cable pretty close. I adjusted them to engage at the same height off the bars. after removing the slack out of the deflector cable I zip tied the cable just under the barrel so it would lay right under the two tabs on the deflector to keep it in place. mine wanted to rest exactly 90 degrees from the tabs and inline with the slot to attach it. also did anyone have the top of the rubber deflector cable boot ziptied to the cable. I don't think the factory set them up that way? anyone verify that on there machine? mine was! the boot was not pushed down over the cable sheath but held tight to the cable so as you ran the deflector the cable would become bare under the rubber boot exposing approx. 3" of the cable end to moisture. another thing I did was open the gap between the sides of the deflector and the chute so it wouldn't rub the paint off working the deflector up and down. also lubed the deflector hinge, nylon gear plate and steel gear under chute rotation cover, the steel pin to chassis hole under the deflector spring, the chute to blower housing rotation, the axle drive bushing on each side, the scraper bar adjusted to 3/16" ground clearance, and about 30 pumps of grease into the 2 auger shaft zerks. I then opened the rear cover to verify that the gears were greased and it appears every thing was greased and oiled per the maintenance chart. all six bolts have to be removed to remove the rear bottom cover, I was hoping I could just remove the back two bolts and loosen the side four and the cover would just slide up and off. at close to 10 hours I will change oil per the manual but am on the fence whether to use synthetic or not. the traction lock on my machine seems to be working correctly and haven't experienced any problems or dislikes so far. not fond of the gas tank and screen , nor the combination choke and throttle comtrol, but i'll get used to them. here's a pic of how I secured the top deflector cable grommet in place.
 
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