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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Deluxe 28+ and while adjusting the drive cable I found in the manual this instruction:

TRACTION DRIVE CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT
If drive slips, adjust traction
clutch to compensate for friction disc wear.
1. Loosen jam nut on traction cable adjustment barrel.
Turn adjustment barrel down to shorten cable and remove all cable slack.
2. With traction clutch disengaged, check that drive plate finger touches
the side of hole closest to auger housing (Figure 40).

Its step 2 that I believe won't give a good adjustment as the rubber drive wheel wears. The procedure 'drive plate finger touches
the side of hole closest to auger housing' appears to not account for diminishing rubber as wheel wears. That adjustment places the metal drive plate into the same position. So the gap between the rubber and metal drive plate will increase as rubber wears away. I think the procedure should use a spring tension or elongation method so the same wheel to plate tension will be achieved as drive wheel wears. Any thoughts on my reasoning. I don't think Ariens has a good method here but I may be missing something. Thanks for some insight into this adjustment.
 

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Hi, to adjust this. Put the machine in the fastest Drive gear. Then push down on the arm coming from the back of the snowblower. Then adjust the length of the rod to that distance using those turn buckles.

I am going to post a link to the video on how to do this in a second.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks ProParts. I was referring to the drive cable which is on the left looking from the rear. That cable pulls the metal drive plate up against the rubber friction wheel. The Ariens method seems to not take into account the friction wheel rubber wearing off.
 

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I have a Deluxe 28+ and while adjusting the drive cable I found in the manual this instruction:

TRACTION DRIVE CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT
If drive slips, adjust traction
clutch to compensate for friction disc wear.
1. Loosen jam nut on traction cable adjustment barrel.
Turn adjustment barrel down to shorten cable and remove all cable slack.
2. With traction clutch disengaged, check that drive plate finger touches
the side of hole closest to auger housing (Figure 40).

Its step 2 that I believe won't give a good adjustment as the rubber drive wheel wears. The procedure 'drive plate finger touches
the side of hole closest to auger housing' appears to not account for diminishing rubber as wheel wears. That adjustment places the metal drive plate into the same position. So the gap between the rubber and metal drive plate will increase as rubber wears away. I think the procedure should use a spring tension or elongation method so the same wheel to plate tension will be achieved as drive wheel wears. Any thoughts on my reasoning. I don't think Ariens has a good method here but I may be missing something. Thanks for some insight into this adjustment.
My machine has the same components and adjustment method. I think that once the adjustment is set it should be good for the life of the rubber friction wheel. That black plastic finger limits the travel of the swing arm and driven plate to the rubber tired friction wheel. When the drive clutch is disengaged the finger will contact the forward part of frame and when the rubber tired wheel is close to being worn out (by Ariens standard) the finger will contact the rear portion of the frame. So buy a new friction wheel once the finger contacts the rear portion of its opening because you will need it once the rubber wears a little further. It appears that this system will compensate for 1/4" to 3/8" of rubber tire wear since a year old machine moves the finger about a 1/4" of free play and drive actually occurs before this.

The approach with other machines was to keep tightening the clutch adjustment to compensate for rubber tire wear so as to maintain a nominal gap between driven plate and friction wheel when clutch was disengaged. Once all the adjustment was used up or the friction wheel rubber lost friction properties you needed a new friction wheel. I guess Ariens takes the guesswork out of when to replace the friction wheel.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok thanks Town. I think Ariens is going for set it and forget it. This way you don't have to keep adjusting the cable spring tension to maintain the tension. I did see a youtube video on someone adjusting an older Ariens and he did adjust by measuring the spring length elongation and commented that the spec said 1/2" to 11/16" of spring stretch.
 

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Ok thanks Town. I think Ariens is going for set it and forget it. This way you don't have to keep adjusting the cable spring tension to maintain the tension. I did see a youtube video on someone adjusting an older Ariens and he did adjust by measuring the spring length elongation and commented that the spec said 1/2" to 11/16" of spring stretch.
That is surprising. The spring in the adjustment mechanism is much stronger than the return spring on the pivoting plate (although older machines used a hex shaft on which the driven plate moved) so any tension on that spring is going to force the driven plate against the friction wheel. So Perhaps the measurement relates to when the clutch is engaged since my spring elongation is about that length when clutch engaged.

I would prefer to adjust the clutch by clearance. Adjusting the clutch by spring tension extension just seems wrong, too imprecise.

Good luck
 
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