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Discussion Starter #1
Hello I recently purchased a used Aries 11528 and upon my first use inspection I noticed the light was dim so I replaced it and it's still dim, the filament just gets red, the bulb doesn't emit light lol, any suggestions? It is a standard automotive type mini bulb, thanks!
 

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Welcome to the forum!

You could check the connections from the engine, to the light, and from the light, to however it's grounded. Wherever the other connection from the light goes; it might attach to the frame, or to the engine block, for instance.



You want nice clean electrical connections. Rust could add enough resistance that the bulb might not get the full power from the alternator.


If you have a multimeter, you could check the voltage at the light, with the bulb installed (so under a load), and with the bulb removed (no load on the alternator). It's probably AC voltage, rather than DC.
 

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Are you sure you have the correct bulb? Just because you found one type in it does not mean it was the correct one - verify in the manual!
 

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Are you sure you have the correct bulb? Just because you found one type in it does not mean it was the correct one - verify in the manual!
I looked it up but it only gives me an ariens part number does anyone know the Sylvania cross reference?
 

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I have been using the Sylvania 1156, 3 different ones, the original and the two I bought from auto zone, checked my ground and all connections, guess I'm going to have to try and find my multimeter..another thing I noticed is that it's loose where the two half's connect in the middle, the bolts are tight but the bar into slot mechanism at the bottom just has play in it, anyone have a remedy? Probably just hammer the tabs closer together?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I bought it as a backup for my Toro 928ohxe wich i love. I do about 25 properties per storm, I have a Toro snow commander too.
 

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Are you talking about the handle bar connection bolts??

Where does the light bulb ground wire attach to??

Will the light get brighter if you wiggle the handles around??

Pix would help, as well as volt meter test results....



GLuck, Jay
 

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No I mean where the auger half meets the drive half, how you would take it apart to change belts. It is grounded to the engine block and does not get brighter when I play with the wires
 

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An 1156 bulb seems to come up as around 27W:

https://www.bulbs.com/product/1156B2

For 12V, that would mean the bulb would be around 5.3 Ohms of resistance.

Your machine may have a hefty alternator, able to support that. But 18W is mentioned as a common alternator output. If you could find a bulb that would fit, at around 15W, that might improve your odds of success.

I'm making an assumption (risky) that the bulbs you're using at too-many watts, and the alternator can't maintain the ~12V, under that load. You could check your voltage at full-throttle, with the bulb lit (such as it is). If it's below around 12V, then I'd conclude that the alternator can't support the load.
 

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another thing I noticed is that it's loose where the two half's connect in the middle, the bolts are tight but the bar into slot mechanism at the bottom just has play in it, anyone have a remedy? Probably just hammer the tabs closer together?
I think I know the tabs & bar you're talking about, if it's like my machine. On a previous Ariens, the bar was worn, and the tabs were also, so there was quite a bit of play. The bar sits at the base/middle of the U-shaped cutout in the tabs, I think (at the bottom of the "U").

I'm not sure how much you'd accomplish by trying to bring the tabs closer together. You'd risk bending/folding them (a flat item doesn't want to bend in that direction), and even if they did bend successfully, the middle of the U-shape wouldn't really change.

Unless these are different than how my machine was set up. Do you have a picture?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
An 1156 bulb seems to come up as around 27W:

https://www.bulbs.com/product/1156B2

For 12V, that would mean the bulb would be around 5.3 Ohms of resistance.

Your machine may have a hefty alternator, able to support that. But 18W is mentioned as a common alternator output. If you could find a bulb that would fit, at around 15W, that might improve your odds of success.

I'm making an assumption (risky) that the bulbs you're using at too-many watts, and the alternator can't maintain the ~12V, under that load. You could check your voltage at full-throttle, with the bulb lit (such as it is). If it's below around 12V, then I'd conclude that the alternator can't support the load.
So maybe one of those led bulbs? Id like to test it I just can't find my meter. 😛

another thing I noticed is that it's loose where the two half's connect in the middle, the bolts are tight but the bar into slot mechanism at the bottom just has play in it, anyone have a remedy? Probably just hammer the tabs closer together?
I think I know the tabs & bar you're talking about, if it's like my machine. On a previous Ariens, the bar was worn, and the tabs were also, so there was quite a bit of play. The bar sits at the end of the U-shaped cutout in the tabs, I think.

I'm not sure how much you'd accomplish by trying to bring the tabs closer together. You'd risk bending/folding them (a flat item doesn't want to bend in that direction), and even if they did bend successfully, the middle of the U-shape wouldn't really change.

Unless these are different than how my machine was set up. Do you have a picture?
Yes that is exactly where I mean I will attach pics tomorrow
 

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Keep in mind that if you measure a cold light bulb, just about all of them will read zero. The resistance that determines thier wattage only appears after the filament heats up.
 
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