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Just a note: when your warranty is over and you need engine parts order from a LCT dealer. Example Ariens gets about $85 for a fuel pump you can buy the same pump with the Ariens part number on the box, and the LCT number on the box for less than $20 from a LCT dealer.
Dave
 

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I bought this snow thrower last year. I'm getting it ready for action this year and I just can't get the thing to turn over. It's indicating a trouble code of 27. I've got fresh fuel in the tank, a new fuel filter and the pump voltage looks ok at the connector (7.1V). When I try to start the engine, I hear a clicking sound coming from the area of the fuel tank. Does anyone have experience troubleshooting this problem? Thanks.
So just bring this up again for future purchasers of these EFI systems on the Ariens.
I replied to the OP after I purchased mine 2/18/21 (big mistake)
Just as the OP stated he put it away and the no start saga began. Well I am now in the same boat, tried to start this approx 2 months after buying it. Now I followed the manual to the T, what I did was add STABIL 360 and top off the fuel tank to get rid of the air space for any condensation. Ran it, made sure the battery on the control module was charged and then parked it in the garage. It NEVER seen snow. Well boys its been at the dealer since I believe august. They finally called me to pick it up yesterday, bring it out running STICKERS ALL FADED and it shuts off right in front of mt and refuses to start. LOL you cant make this up. Im most likely selling this as soon as I get it back without ever using it. Like cars today, over engineered.
 

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New fuel filter in backwards? ;)
On my machine? It is absolutely a electronic issue on mine, it actually was flashing the same code as the op after the same exact situation of storing it and no start soon afterwards. Either the entire control module or the battery that powers it. I have never owned a machine that had to ever go to the dealer for repair EVER. This unnecessary technology is why im in this predicament. I should of purchased the carb version on this model.
 

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Wonder if they can just replace the engine ( under waranty)with a carbed model, would save them replacing the whole machine.
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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A 27 is low fuel pressure . . . . seems like it should be pretty easy to resolve. Was this stored dry, or with fuel in it?
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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Well, kills that theory . . . a lot of efi fuel pumps don't tolerate being dry well.

3 items left:

  • Fuel pump
  • Pressure sensor and it's wire
  • Power to fuel pump
 

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Long post.....apologies

So I might have stumbled on perhaps an issue that might help some here............So I think I left the key on and dis-charged the battery enough that the ECU went insane because it's supply voltage was too low.

Not exactly sure how but my battery was too low.

I went to start the blower after a previous 20 minute run the night before and the normal pump and throttle body didn't make the same sound they normally do when the key is first turned on and it wouldn't start.....

BUT if then waited like 20 sec's after the key was switched to on, it would sorta make the right noise and would run for a sec and shut down and NOW I could smell gas.

Looked at the ECU and it was flashing a error code 27, "low fuel pressure"

I took off the throttle body cover and could see gas dripping off the bottom of the throttle body for just a sec each time the key was cycled. So I got a flash light and could see inside it was the injector peeing a significant stream/amount of gas. It was so much so, it was flooding the throttle body and dripping out the intake for each key cycle. It would pee a good stream and also the butterfly valve would open and close once.

Each key cycle, wait 20 sec's, it would pee this quick stream and stop, I could then start it, BUT it would run for a sec and stop.......

After maybe 5 minutes of trying, the thing now started was making a really weird noise, a buzzing (too low of voltage to the fuel pump I assume now) and the ECU red light was dim and stopped giving code flashes

ECU battery was down less then 7 something volts...........I assume under load the battery was dropping way less because if you measure the current draw when the key if first turn on, there's about 1.5 amps draw momentary and then the resting current is much less.

Charged battery for an hour and POOF, normal key on noises returned and it ran perfect!

Perhaps some issues above are low battery?....Measuring the battery with no load might show round 7'ish volts, BUT its loaded voltage might be(is) falling way less then a usable voltage and this low battery (mine was) is being masked as a error code 27.

Try charging the battery with the wall charger first and if that works, perhaps there is something wrong with the blower's own charging circuit, if not, maybe it's just a s**t battery out of the shoot(they are using old school NiCad's, maybe their 90's vintage battery's for real...LOL).

My issue was just leaving the key on or just was a loose connection to the battery, not sure BUT I did check the charge current to the NiCad once up and running, it was charging and up around 8.5VDC .
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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Probably NiMh not NiCd, but the overall observation of low voltage effects seems on-point! Low voltage -> low pump speed -> low fuel pressure . . .

Charge power source is also used as tach signal, so I would expect a power loss to have more effect than just not charging.
 

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Yeh NiMh is correct, NiCd a bit too old, I may have just dated myself, DOH!!!.........

So from what I gather from the Arien's docs is that because the startor's charge winding AC sig is being fed/used by the ECU (assume tach must be derived there, yes) via F4, but additionally this same source (stator's AC sig) appears by their docs that they are internal to the ECU, also rectifying, filtering and regulating it then sending it back out via F3 to the NiMh as its charge source.

My assumption then based on the design is that the NiMh batt could/can lose it's ECU generated charge source (either a internal ECU failure or external disconnect[F3, lose connection, etc]), like I assume I may have experienced(or I left the key on), but the ECU could in fact still have its tach sig as the AC sig(stator's AC winging) could still be functional, but and again, the systems isn't charging the NiMh (my case).

But yes, and along your line of thinking of a total "power loss", (a stator failure/disconnect) will not only drop out the ECU derived NiMh charge source, but it would also drop out the tach sig to the ECU by default as well, totally agreed.....
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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The AC frequency off the stator is a function of the number of poles and engine speed, so about all they need to do is read it's freq. My poimt simply being that if stator powermis lost, the ECU loses speed reference, and it was stated that it ran fine, so that is likely not it. Might be an isshe with thencharge circuit, but I believe I heard the statement that the key was left on overnight, so likely this is nothing mlre than an easy error that shot the operator square in the foot . . .

Depending on charge current, a totally flat battery may well pull things down so far that the charge current isn't enough to run on when under load. Back probe the battery connector with it running at operating speed, and you will know quickly!
 
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