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Could be a bleeding foot, yes and yes, but as stated earlier, I checked the charge current as soon as I got it fired up, it's charging and was up at 8.5V BUT in the process seems the molex connector to the battery is a bit flaky even if clipped properly and I usually don't leave ignition in the on position...........Who knows, hope it was just a shitty connection and I'm not that senile yet, thx for your inputs.
 

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Long post.....apologies

So I might have stumbled on perhaps an issue that might help some here............So I think I left the key on and dis-charged the battery enough that the ECU went insane because it's supply voltage was too low.

Not exactly sure how but my battery was too low.

I went to start the blower after a previous 20 minute run the night before and the normal pump and throttle body didn't make the same sound they normally do when the key is first turned on and it wouldn't start.....

BUT if then waited like 20 sec's after the key was switched to on, it would sorta make the right noise and would run for a sec and shut down and NOW I could smell gas.

Looked at the ECU and it was flashing a error code 27, "low fuel pressure"

I took off the throttle body cover and could see gas dripping off the bottom of the throttle body for just a sec each time the key was cycled. So I got a flash light and could see inside it was the injector peeing a significant stream/amount of gas. It was so much so, it was flooding the throttle body and dripping out the intake for each key cycle. It would pee a good stream and also the butterfly valve would open and close once.

Each key cycle, wait 20 sec's, it would pee this quick stream and stop, I could then start it, BUT it would run for a sec and stop.......

After maybe 5 minutes of trying, the thing now started was making a really weird noise, a buzzing (too low of voltage to the fuel pump I assume now) and the ECU red light was dim and stopped giving code flashes

ECU battery was down less then 7 something volts...........I assume under load the battery was dropping way less because if you measure the current draw when the key if first turn on, there's about 1.5 amps draw momentary and then the resting current is much less.

Charged battery for an hour and POOF, normal key on noises returned and it ran perfect!

Perhaps some issues above are low battery?....Measuring the battery with no load might show round 7'ish volts, BUT its loaded voltage might be(is) falling way less then a usable voltage and this low battery (mine was) is being masked as a error code 27.

Try charging the battery with the wall charger first and if that works, perhaps there is something wrong with the blower's own charging circuit, if not, maybe it's just a s**t battery out of the shoot(they are using old school NiCad's, maybe their 90's vintage battery's for real...LOL).

My issue was just leaving the key on or just was a loose connection to the battery, not sure BUT I did check the charge current to the NiCad once up and running, it was charging and up around 8.5VDC .
You are EXACTLY correct as in the end the dealer reluctantly says it was the BATTERY the entire time. This dealer obviously does not have a tech who knows how to trouble shoot these EFI machines. I would of done all the diagnosing myself and most likely would of discovered the issue in the end preventing all this frustration. But as a Brand new 3k machine (yes I'm an idiot) I was not working on it and brought it in. I am sure I will be experiencing more issues in the future with this machine if I keep it, but will most likely be selling it as soon as it arrives home. Back to Carbs and nothing more then a stator for a light.
 

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I get that some folks want to stick with carbs because it’s what they know - I too have an ultrasonic cleaner that’ll become a boat anchor when carbs are canceled. But, for the record, the weak link in this post is the inexperienced (being kind) dealer/mechanic - not the $25 FI battery.
 

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I get that some folks want to stick with carbs because it’s what they know - I too have an ultrasonic cleaner that’ll become a boat anchor when carbs are canceled. But, for the record, the weak link in this post is the inexperienced (being kind) dealer/mechanic - not the $25 FI battery.
I would have to agree with that, but this machine should never of had any issue especially when it is brand new.
 

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You are EXACTLY correct as in the end the dealer reluctantly says it was the BATTERY the entire time. This dealer obviously does not have a tech who knows how to trouble shoot these EFI machines. I would of done all the diagnosing myself and most likely would of discovered the issue in the end preventing all this frustration. But as a Brand new 3k machine (yes I'm an idiot) I was not working on it and brought it in. I am sure I will be experiencing more issues in the future with this machine if I keep it, but will most likely be selling it as soon as it arrives home. Back to Carbs and nothing more then a stator for a light.
If it does prove to have been the battery all along, that is the simplest of possible fixes. I would personally give the machine a second chance. At least while it's under warranty. Of course if you don't have a back up machine in case this one goes down again, that can influence the decision to hang on to it. Either way I understand your frustration and wanting to move on from it. Good luck either way.
 

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Long post, AGAIN.....apologies gents

So I think, and as eluded to earlier this Molex connector (see included picture below) is flaky.............I've verified that since the stator provides the ECU its AC signal (for tach, battery charge source, etc), the ECU(its PCB components) then is/are also conditioning (rectify, filter and regulate) this AC stator signal that it sends as DC back out to charge the NiMh battery.

Yes.....Once the machine starts, you can unplug the NiMh and she continues to run like a top as the stator(magneto) now obviously can provide the ECU its necessary power(and AC freq for tach etc) to run things........I've just ran mine this way.

Sooooooo, the point here? If the battery connector is flaky as mine seems to be, the battery got me started and yet was not properly charging once running (vibration in the dash is perhaps making the connector flake out). i.e., Each time it started, it took the battery down just a bit, BUT this also meant it was slowly getting weaker and weaker a little bit each time because it's not really getting charged back up while running until POOF!!!!..........Insane ops of over priming and gas leaking out onto the tire, starting but shortly after dying AND error code "27", low fuel pressure!!!

This is my theory and I'm sticking to it because I'm not sure I've quite starting doing my own stunts yet by leaving ignition keys on by accident.....LOL. But, the net effect s/would have a similar outcome........

Seriously though, the connector is flaky (shitty pin engagement) while plugged and locked together because if I wiggle it about AND with the key on(but not running), the ECU's power cycles on and off telling me it has a flaky connection........ALSO the wall charger "charging" indicator light flips around from green to red if i wiggle the connector.

I can only assume it's doing the same while plugged into the ECU and running..I'll be replacing this connector with a bit more positive engagement connector. Perhaps I just got the only bad one, BUT...........

I've already tore into this thing down to the stator and back out just because that's what I do, it's a sickness I have......... HOWEVER, IMHO it's still a simple and well designed machine. The exception (as I have found and I'm not a snow blower design engineer) as stated above, is the Molex connector (and a firmware update, see insanity ops above) they've used that connects the ECU's output to the battery.

The stator, bridge rectifier, injector, pump and all associated connectors/wiring including the fuse box, sensor interconnects and electric chute/deflector hardware all seem very solid and of high quality components IMH[O] Opinion/Observation........

I think I'll keep mine, anyone wants to sell theirs? I'll buy it!!!

Tire Land vehicle Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Automotive lighting
 

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That's the ticket 👍
 

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nice job and no need really for shrink wrap butt connectors.
Thanks and nope no butts here!! When spliced in, I heatshrink over the soldered splices though, BUT once in, the pins in these connectors fit together much tighter and they're a much higher quality connector then the old school Molex "type" they've used.

Not sure why Ariens went back to the 60's era here on this particular, but think the REAL problem is these are actually Chinese knock off Molex "types" as the tolerances are s**t unlike the real McCoys are.....Sloppy engineering on Ariens part to have allowed this out for production IMHO, it will bite them!!

Oh well got'er fixed up nice and snug, just need it to DUMP now!!........Picked up the connectors at the local Autozone, can also do the Amazon thing.
 

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I agree that letting this machine out with an open
splice like that is bad especially since they did not
use any automotive sealing gel.

Would using the non-conductive sealing gel from NAPA
that they use for light bulbs that comes in an aerosol
can work just as well??

In a real pinch one could use the orange-colored 3M brand
direct burial tubes that are used by the folks at Invisible Fence
for wire splices using wire nuts that have the same type of gel
to waterproof a splice or unsoldered connection.
 

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Figured I would renew this thread.
Today I attempted to start the machine- NO START. Immediately noticed it would just beep once and not make all the r2d2 noises it does when fine. Charged the battery and still nothing. I will be checking the fuel pump tomorrow and performing all necessary tests as per the shop manual. What a joke this technology is and a GIANT mistake by me getting caught up in purchasing it.
 

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Figured I would renew this thread.
Today I attempted to start the machine- NO START. Immediately noticed it would just beep once and not make all the r2d2 noises it does when fine. Charged the battery and still nothing. I will be checking the fuel pump tomorrow and performing all necessary tests as per the shop manual. What a joke this technology is and a GIANT mistake by me getting caught up in purchasing it.
Sorry to hear of your non-start issue. Your Kraken has the latest technology and perhaps uses the 12 volt battery to power the EFI system instead of the small included battery in the older systems? So you may have connection issues when you removed and re-installed your battery.

A new thread would likely be better to avoid any confusion with the older system, if it doesn't work the same way.
 
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Figured I would renew this thread.
Today I attempted to start the machine- NO START. Immediately noticed it would just beep once and not make all the r2d2 noises it does when fine. Charged the battery and still nothing. I will be checking the fuel pump tomorrow and performing all necessary tests as per the shop manual. What a joke this technology is and a GIANT mistake by me getting caught up in purchasing it.
agreed..similar problems with my 2019 deluxe 30 efi . Dealer has agreed to exchange it for a Deluxe SHO 28 inch * 921048, carburetor model.
And Ariens would not honor the warranty because it was a fuel injection problem, just waiting for them to put it together and will pick it up soon , yessss.
 

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agreed..similar problems with my 2019 deluxe 30 efi . Dealer has agreed to exchange it for a Deluxe SHO 28 inch * 921048, carburetor model.
And Ariens would not honor the warranty because it was a fuel injection problem, just waiting for them to put it together and will pick it up soon , yessss.
You're lucky your dealer was so cooperative. I didn't have such luck. These machines should be running on 12 v's not 7.2. It's not enough to kick these fuel pumps when they bind (for whatever reason that is)
 

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You're lucky your dealer was so cooperative. I didn't have such luck. These machines should be running on 12 v's not 7.2. It's not enough to kick these fuel pumps when they bind (for whatever reason that is)
to be more precise...l am putting out 500$ for the exchange but l am happy to get the sho 28 with carb...
 

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You're lucky your dealer was so cooperative. I didn't have such luck. These machines should be running on 12 v's not 7.2. It's not enough to kick these fuel pumps when they bind (for whatever reason that is)
doesn't matter if it is a 12v pump of 7.2v pump. a stuck pump is a stuck pump. a 12v pump is just as likely to stick as a 6v pump. fuel injection is not really there yet to be used in a seasonal application. i almost feel like they will get electric snowblowers right before they get all the bugs worked out of fuel injected snowblowers.
 
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