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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Question for all of you. I have a low hour 2014 Ariens Professional 28. It stalls at low idle.

Stats:
Briggs and Stratton engine
Sat for 2 years but with stable and the non ethanol small engine fuel you buy at home depot in the tank filled to the brim.

It started right up but had a good size puff of white smoke then went away. Bad fuel? I drained the fuel and put in fresh.

I cleaned the carb with a half can or more of carb cleaner. Then replaced the spark plug.

It runs like a top from mid to high rpm but stalls at low RPM.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
 

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You might have missed the pilot (low speed) jet when you were cleaning the carb? It's usually up top, while the main (high speed) jet is down bottom in the center column inside the float bowl.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tabora. I really appreciate the help.

I never took the carb off. I sprayed it into carb while running.

Is that a pic of the same carb I have?
 

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...I never took the carb off. I sprayed it into carb while running...
If you only sprayed it into the carb throat, you missed cleaning about 90% of the carb. You need to take off the bowl, remove the main jet and emulsion tube, and clean the pilot jet, too. See here:
 

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Tabora is correct, you have a clogged "Slow Jet".
Non Ethanol gas goes bad/stale just as fast as Ethanol gas does.
I am not a big "Fan" of Ethanol fuel, but it does burn cleaner, the Ethanol acts as a Solvent to remove gum and varnish, plus as an "Oxidizer" to help it burn cleaner in the combustion chamber before it goes out the exhaust pipe.
The problem with Ethanol is it attracts water out of the air and has less "BTU Volumetric Efficiency", meaning "Heat" when it burns, thus creating less heat, or expanding air, to push the piston down harder, thus creating less power and lower fuel economy.
The trick with any fuel, whether it be Non Ethanol, or Ethanol, is to keep it in a Sealed Container that is full with less "Air Space" to help slow down the "Oxidizing Effect" or going "Stale" from the lighter solvents and chemicals it is made with from evaporating out of it before it is used. That is another reason to use a fuel "Stabilizer" year round in your power equipment fuel, and keep the fuel tank either Full of gas, or drain it out completely. Don't leave a quarter tank of gas and the rest air in it or it will go bad fast.
In a lot of occasions, we have seen Non Ethanol fuel leave more gum and varnish in the carburetors than Ethanol fuel does because of the Ethanol acting as a Solvent to help dissolve the varnish.
As you all know, Ethanol is a type of alcohol, and many carburetor cleaning solvents and fuel additives have an Alcohol based solution in them as the Active ingredient. Your "Sea Foam" has a good amount of Alcohol in it.
 

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I've used both Tru Fuel and VP non ethanol gases. Both seem to work very well. I prefer the VP because it's less expensive and you can buy containers in 1 quart, 1 gallon, 5 Gallon, all the way up to 55 gallon drums. They state its good for at least 2 years in the steel containers. I don't use these regularly during the season, opting for non-ethanol gas from my local stations, but I do use um for my last use and than fill the tank to the top and put it away. I haven't had any rust inside my tanks doing it this way compared to leaving them dry and empty. Good information above. Thanks for posting those videos.
 
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