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Discussion Starter #1
Picked this up and haven't had time to mess with her much. I'm leaning towards it being a 71...but not entirely sure.

First snowblower I've ever had. Bought it from a guy that said if you have patience itll start. I got it running after playing with the choke...but I dont even know how to operate the thing.

Has a new belt, the guy I got it from said it has a new carb put on it. He was sick of "being patient". Got her for 20 bucks.



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That is probably a good surmise …. I have 2 of these series, with a Predator, and a B&S on them … they run great.... just did a complete ground up restore on one.


You probably want to get or fashion a belt cover, as well as some XTrac snow tires, unless you don't mind bouncing the machine to death with the lawn tire chains.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is probably a good surmise …. I have 2 of these series, with a Predator, and a B&S on them … they run great.... just did a complete ground up restore on one.





You probably want to get or fashion a belt cover, as well as some XTrac snow tires, unless you don't mind bouncing the machine to death with the lawn tire chains.
Lol, yeah I know absolutely nothing about snowblowers.

I've been able to take a ford 302 motor and tear it down and rebuild it in 30 days.

Figured this will be less knuckle busting, with a smaller machine. Has a 7hp Tecumseh sticker on the motor...

Definitely seems to need a new cable on the left hand side. I have to do everything manually at the motor to get anything to move.

Basically, I'm looking to get an accurate year so I have a starting point for parts....maybe an operator's manual. A little bit of monkeying around I'll figure her out.

I've had her running for about 30 seconds but that's was it this far.

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Couple more pictures, of the cable I believe needs to be replaced. Also, I'm sure this probably didnt come the factory looking like this, but looks a little wonky by the choke to me. Been wrong before though.


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So, Only God knows what that conduit bracket is doing there?

Your missing the heater box for over the carb area.

Also, in case your not aware, that black spring button at the carb is a manual prime. You choke it, and hold that in for a couple pulls when it is cold, helps greatly in starting it.

That level up by the handle controls the engine speed.

It also looks like you might have to pull the recoil cover, and rewind the recoil. That pull cord is not suppose to hang limp like that.
 

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Also, by the looks of the machine, and how its been lacking in the care dept., I would not be surprised if you need a new friction disc. On that model, many of the upper and lower friction bracket rods are rust welded in there tube counterparts, thus rendering what would have been a relatively easy friction disc replacement, into one that will require a further tear down to get that friction disc replaced.
 

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I'm guessing the guy meant to say....
" New Carb for this Machine "
As I didn't see a new carb anywhere in your pixx. Nice old machine, just a little bit of love and it will be as new again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Havent been able to get her started besides the very first time. Pulled the carb bowl and it had ice in the bowl. Cleaned it all up but still nothing. Turns over freely...

Also I'm assuming full choke is all the way to the front of the machine, half choke in the middle and no joke all the way back by the handle?

Gaskets in the bowel are definitely needing new ones. A gave her a shot of starting fluid at the spark plug prior to pulling off the bowel. Gonna go play with her some more after I warm up

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Looks like a good candidate for a Harbor Freight Predator 212 cc. $99.00. Also, pull the bottom cover, and check the lower end.
 

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Havent been able to get her started besides the very first time. Pulled the carb bowl and it had ice in the bowl. Cleaned it all up but still nothing. Turns over freely...

Also I'm assuming full choke is all the way to the front of the machine, half choke in the middle and no joke all the way back by the handle?

Gaskets in the bowel are definitely needing new ones. A gave her a shot of starting fluid at the spark plug prior to pulling off the bowel. Gonna go play with her some more after I warm up
If the bowl had ice in it, the tank and fuel line might also be icy. If you can bring it in somewhere to warm up and melt, that would be ideal. I'd drain the tank and line, maybe change the fuel line if feasible (it's old, and even if it's not degraded yet, it will eventually).

At a minimum, you can briefly pull the fuel line off the carb, and see if you're currently getting fuel flow, revealing if you have a second ice problem.

Then give it fresh gas, since that stuff may not be good.
 

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https://sites.google.com/site/scotlawrence/

Everything you ever wanted to know about the model history of the old Ariens snowblowers is contained within this website. You have a 10,000 series machine there. It's built like a tank. It moves a lot of snow. The sheet metal auger housing ("bucket"), impeller housing and tractor drive housing are all heavy gauge metal. Compare it to one of the snowblowers you see parked outside a big box store to see the difference. I own three and a half Ariens 10,000 series machines myself.

Its gearshift and clutch controls are rod-operated (no cables to break). The clutch and gearshift functions are similar to a manual shift car in that you let out the clutch and the machine advances or reverses. There are two levers just behind the attachment. One lever is twisted to couple the PTO pulley to the impeller shaft. The other lever is raised (engine should be running slow) to tighten the drive belt until the engine applies power to the tractor drive and the attachment.

You can leave the attachment uncoupled then tighten the drive belt in order to apply engine power to the tractor drive alone. This is travel mode which allows you to drive the machine to where the work is located without having a spinning auger in front of you. Caution - This machine is capable of powering its impeller and tractor drive while in gear and advancing while NO operator is present! Don't ever walk out in front of the machine while its auger is turning. It's got enough torque to fling heavy wet snow and I suspect it wouldn't readily stall if it were to catch a pants cuff...

Remove the auger shear bolts, apply grease to the zerk fittings on the auger tubes and manually spin the augers to distribute grease between the auger tubes and auger shafts. Replace shear bolts. Don't overtighten.

I like the snow chains on my gravel driveway. There is a lot of operating experience with these machines at this forum. With a little patience, you'll be able to resolve any problem with that machine.

Your machine has provisions for installation of an air cleaner assembly because it's capable of powering Ariens Trac-Team attachments (mower, tiller, etc) as well as the Sno-Thro attachment.

For sticky throttle wires, I've applied chain lubricant directly on the spiral-wound wire cladding the throttle wire. Wipe off any excess lubricant.
 

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Basically, I'm looking to get an accurate year so I have a starting point for parts....maybe an operator's manual.
You won't need the year to get if refurbished.

Use the model number 910962 and the serial number off the white sticker. Then go to the Ariens web site to download the Owner's Manual, Parts Manual and Service Manual.

Your engine is a Tecumseh H70. You can find the technical manuals in the "sticky" section at the top of this forum. For parts, Google "Tecumseh H70-130067A".
 

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Also I'm assuming full choke is all the way to the front of the machine, half choke in the middle and no joke all the way back by the handle?
It's been a while since I've worked on this series. Simply examine the position of the choke's butterfly plate in the carb body. Full choke is when the butterfly plate is fully closed (restricting air flow) and no choke is when the butterfly is open or perpendicular to the carb opening to allow normal air flow.

I'd guess that conduit bracket is a makeshift way to hold the choke lever to a partially closed position to keep it running. You'll naturally want to get rid of that bracket. I'd rebuild the carb (or order a $12 Chinese carb), replace the rubber fuel lines, drain the gas tank, add fresh ethanol-free fuel and go from there. You'll also want to check for spark and replace the plug.
 

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Also I'm assuming full choke is all the way to the front of the machine, half choke in the middle and no joke all the way back by the handle?
Opposite. ;) Full choke is all the way back toward the handlebars, and No choke is toward the front of the machine.

Look at the end of the choke lever..it's in the shape of an arrow! :) and the arrow is pointing to choke. And it probably has the word "choke" stamped into the metal, (mine does)

Your snowblower is probably a 1971, the Tecumseh serial number will tell us for sure.

Scot
 

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Yes that Tecumseh definitely looks like a strong candidate for a $99 Predator replacement. I say that because it looks very similar (in terms of condition) to the one I recently replaced on my '73 Ariens.

IMHO, once you get that amount of rust/deterioration on a vintage Tecumseh, don't be surprised if you start experiencing multiple issues. In my case they began with the recoil start, which on my machine literally started disintegrating when I tried to start the engine after taking it out of storage last spring. I thought "OK, yes, some of these components have a lifespan, so I'll replace the starter." I did that, which involved not just simply getting a replacement starter but also having to search on ebay to find the special bolts Tecumseh used in the 70s to secure them to the engine.

After making the repair -which involved multiple "spark plug disconnected" tests- where the new starter did properly engage and I could hear the normal piston and valve compression sounds) I then reconnected the spark plug and tried starting the engine. It did turn over and run....for about 15 seconds...before abruptly stopping, with a rather nasty sounding rattling/ crunching sound.

I subsequently found chunks of the piston channel section of the engine block inside the starter housing.

I mentioned what happened to a neighbor of mine who is an industrial engineer, and after he looked at the remains of that 47 year old motor stated "amazing it lasted that long before succumbing to metal fatigue".

Next stop was at the local Harbor Freight.
 

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I agree with the predator swap, it will be cheaper in the long run and a whole lot less frustrating than what you are attempting !
 

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Nice find! My Ariens has 3hp - but starts easy every time - just doesn't throw snow very far. Another post suggests a cover over the belts (got to keep them dry). And take off the chains - unless you have DEEP snow!

There are 2 levers on right side by belts - they engage drive belt & Auger belt, would be SMART to disengage them when starting - and see/watch how they engage! Bigger engines (HP) throw snow better & farther. (parts will be harder to find - but will last forever. :nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Can anyone tell me what I'm missing ? I got her fired up after messing with the screw underneath the carb bowl. I can engage the Auger but it just pops out like it's missing something to keep it in. Like a rod of some sort? This thing is all Bob the buildered up...


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