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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Omg what a hassle for you. My apologies the snowblower gods are not smiling down upon you. Internet search says adjust choke while running to richen mixture to see if you are running too lean. Or you can try this

This model doesnt have a throttle.
Adjusting the choke...when it's running, I tried that, but it started backfiring & blowing black smoke (which I think is poorly ignited gas)
I thought that the black screw in the pic adjusted the air/fuel mix, but it didn't seem to work.
I'll be learning more about how these carbs work & how they're SUPPOSED to operated tomorrow.
DAY FREAKING FOUR...馃槰馃槶馃槰
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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That black screw does nothing more than hold the pilot jet in on any carb I have seen.

If you had the carb off it's likey a linkage problem.

As lean as the EPA forces these engines to run, I seriously doubt that any significant overspeed could be due to mixture, or even the carb for that matter.

If you move the throttle plate/linkage with your hand, will it slow down?, If so, the problem isn't the carb . . .
 

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ST824, Plat 24, Snow-Joe
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Blue flame is oxygen rich, and is a result of the fuel/air mixture not completing combustion until it passes through the exhaust. I think anyway lol. A spark plug issue could cause this. Are you at the point you voided the warranty and that's why you keep trying? Its fun for us to help but not sure how much you should endure...
 

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This model doesnt have a throttle.
Adjusting the choke...when it's running, I tried that, but it started backfiring & blowing black smoke (which I think is poorly ignited gas)
I thought that the black screw in the pic adjusted the air/fuel mix, but it didn't seem to work.
I'll be learning more about how these carbs work & how they're SUPPOSED to operated tomorrow.
DAY FREAKING FOUR...馃槰馃槶馃槰
Black Smoke Means It Is Running A Rich Mixture.
 

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HAS IT GOT Fresh Oil In It Now???? The BLOODY SHEER PIN Issue Some One Might Just Have Put It On Finger Tight. If You Had Oil Coming Out The Exhaust Either The Carb Filled The Crank Case. or bad rings beside the other thing I Talked About Here..
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Took the day off (no snow for a week predicted). I'm going to fuss w/ the linkages on Tuesday.
AAAaand probably be ordering a new carb on Wed...
I'm sure I'm missing one tiny liddle thing in this repair at this stage.
 

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That black screw does nothing more than hold the pilot jet in on any carb I have seen.

If you had the carb off it's likey a linkage problem.

As lean as the EPA forces these engines to run, I seriously doubt that any significant overspeed could be due to mixture, or even the carb for that matter.

If you move the throttle plate/linkage with your hand, will it slow down?, If so, the problem isn't the carb . . .
The black plastic screw adjusts the idle speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
OK, I didn't touch that beast at all today. I had to catch up on other stuff, and it's still no snow for the week. I'll be checking in tomorrow.
Now Falstaff said he admired my tenacity. I'm a thick-headed Irishman. Translate into 'too stupid to quit'! LOL
More to come!
 

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When you started to take the carb apart, did you screw the jet screws all the way in (until seated) counting the turns? After cleaning, did you screw said jets in to softly seated and then back them out to the original position? If not, you might have changed the settings. My Honda manual says to screw the pilot jet (idle jet) out 1.5 turns from seated, and then while the warmed engine is running, turn the black plastic jet screw in or out to the smoothest running position. Then stop and set high speed rpms w/ a tach.

If the machine is still under warranty, my vote would be to take advantage of that, get the machine running properly, and then maintain it regularly.
 

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It seems you may have a carb linkage problem. In operation there is usually a spring trying to open the carb valve and a link from the governor trying to close the valve. Under normal conditions , with full throttle, the 2 forces are equal and the engine runs at the "governed speed" usually about 3000-3600rpm. The faster the engine speed the greater the force trying to close the carb valve.
My first assumption would not be an internal governor problem. Since you have removed and re-installed the carb I would suspect a linkage and/or spring problem.
Did you take any pictures of the linkage before you started to remove the carb? If not I would start looking for pictures and/or illustrations of the carb linkage.
If this is indeed the problem it will surely be much simpler to fix than taking the engine apart.
Just my $0.02
 

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I've been absent from the site for quite a while and got back on it with this thread. At risk of insulting pretty much everyone on here, I'm with Wrenchit and wondering why this machine hasn't gone back to whoever sold it, warranty in hand and asking when the new machine will be delivered to replace this problem machine.
I understand offering advice on the various issues with this particular machine and all have merit, but.... man... I'd be at the door of the company that sold it to me
Sorry in advance if I offend/insult anyone

to Jim M58, Good luck with the Ariens, I hope you resolve whatever the problem(s) is (are)
I have a 68 Ariens as well as 2 from the 70s and 80s, I run the newer (lol) ones on 8-10 snowblowing sidewalk jobs each storm and rarely have any problems,
 
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