This is something you can try without taking the carburetor off. And if you get it running again, if it is available in your area, use ethanol free fuel. Even high-test fuel has ethanol added unless it states it is ethanol free. Here is instructions from Sea Foam on how to clean a dirty or plugged carburetor. HOW2_GummedUp-Carb.pdf (seafoamworks.com)I've had a snowblower for 12 years. I bought it 2nd hand. It was kind of small, but it did the job. My problem w/it was that it didn't have a reverse (20" model) and my hip has gone bad (got a brand spankin' new one this August...)
For Christmas last year my wife bought me an Ariens 920025. I was SO excited!
Put in the gas (hi-test w/ stabilizer), and fired it up.
It wasn't doing a great job, but it's an Ariens! I locked up both wheels b/c it was getting caught up in some drifts (I'm in Canada). Still, that little 20" MTD grabbed and flung the snow better w/ an engine half the size.
My neighbor came over (this is the FIRST time I used it) and told me that only one side of the auger was turning.
Looked at it, and saw that there was no shear bolt. Luckily Ariens sent spares.
No shear bolt was installed at the factory.
I threw in one of the spares, and voila, we're blowin' snow....
NOTE: I sent Ariens and email about this and got NO response. Oh boy; not good.
(Please note I stored it the same way I had stored the previous one: just parked it)
Now it's not starting. At all. Crank- nada; electric start, nope.
When I went to check the spark plug, and saw oil dripping out the exhaust port.
Does anyone here? ANYONE have any idea? I think I got a lemon, and it's 53 weeks old. I'm shafted, aren't I?
|Warranty Code||Product Group||Warranty Period|
|SA||Professional Sno-Thro||3 Years Residential Use. 1 Year Commercial Use.|
|SB||Compact, Deluxe and Platinum Sno-Thro and Path-Pro||3 Years Residential Use. 90 Days Commercial Use.|
|SC||Sno-Tek||2 Years Residential Use. 90 Days Commercial Use.|
|SD||Deluxe and Platinum EFI Sno-Thro||3 Years Residential Use. 90 Days Commercial Use.|
|SE||920-Series Classic Sno-Thro||3 Years Residential Use. 90 Days Commercial Use.|
|Ariens AX||Ariens- and Yamaha-branded engines are warranted by the manufacturer and the warranty is administrated by Ariens Company. Refer to the engine manual for warranty statements.|
|Briggs & Stratton, Kawasaki, Kohler, Subaru||Covered by the engine manufacturer’s warranty.|
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s warranty statements.
|Globally except Australia or New Zealand:||Australia or New Zealand:|
|Ariens Company 655 W. Ryan Street Brillion, WI 54110 Phone: (920) 756 - 4688 www.ariens.com|
I agree. If the float stuck and gas drained into the crank case and overfilled it this could happen. Shear pins are a minor issue. Thats why there’s spares with most new blowers. At the end of the season turn off your fuel and run the carb dry. If you have excess fuel in the engine block, drain it all out, add the recommended amount of 5w-30 synthetic oil, add new treated fuel (with stabil), prime the carb and try starting it. Good luck.Check your oil level. It sounds like maybe the fuel tank emptied into the crankcase through the carb. You don't want to get it started with a crankcase full of gasoline.
She's runnin' now! Thanks for your advice. I'm going to be posting a more comprehensive take on what happened. One point to make: I drained the carb into a glass jar, the tank into a separate container and put fresh gas (Premium Octane from Canadian Tire which has the rep up here to have 0 ethanol in it). AAand I poured some of the fresh gas into a glass jar and there was no difference in color, viscosity (OK, I just swirled it like I was checking the 'legs' of a glass of wine). No debris in the first 2 jars either.So.... Did this machine sit for months unused, maybe from April 2022 to November 2022? Did you leave gasoline in it? It sounds like you have gummed up gasoline in your carburetor.
It's runnin now! But thank you for the vid and advice.Most of the OHV engines on snowblowers use a Honda-style carburetor with a 10mm bolt holding the carb bowl. Yes, there must be hundreds of carb clean videos on youtube.
I don't know if yours has a fuel shutoff valve or not, but if it does, close the fuel valve before attempting to disassemble the carburetor. If not, have a suitable container to catch the dripping fuel when you undo that 10mm bolt.
Do this in a well-ventilated area or outside.
If you happen to have a can of carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner, that would be ideal. A small metal wire (from a twist-tie or a metal brush) would also be useful to have to clean the main jet and/or the emulsion tube.
Yeah, I gave the ez fix first but w/ no success. It's running now, but I wasn't able to isolate what the actual problem was. I THINK it must have been a piece of grit in one of the ports- I'm suspecting the red doo-hicky b/c that one has only 1 port at the base of it. Sure I could be wrong, but that spot looks to me like it could be a choke point.Does the carb have a drain in it and do you have a fuel shutoff? Turn off the fuel and drain the carb if possible.
You can try spraying some carb cleaner into the carb throttle plate when it's open using the choke. I did this trick to get my Toro started a few weeks back. I used stabilizer as well but left the fuel in.
Check out these videos.
Thanks man.@Jim_M58, some thoughts... Checking the shear bolts is a "before every use" thing and also could have broken early in your first use. Putting the machine away for the year in the new era of sketchy fuel is also covered in the manual. I don't think you should be blaming the machine. Please start by taking a few minutes to re-read your manuals and I think you'll have a happier experience with your Ariens going forward.
You can download digital copies here: Operator's Manuals - Ariens
Yeah, I know, I know...rookie w/ a new toy not looking after it; I getcha'.Spend some time reading threads in this forum and you will likely see that some of your issues may be self-inflicted. Gotta say that it sounds like you might have broken the shear pin in the snow drift before your neighbor pointed out that one side wasn't rotating. I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to respond to a shear pin issue when it was doing what was supposed to do. The schmoo running out the exhaust is also not the manufactures fault. Trying to start a blower on dead fuel will result in that 95% of the time. Hang in there and we will attempt to help you clear these things up.
That guy's something else, huh? WOW. I didn't find one pertinent to my problem, but wow does he know his stuff. Thanks.Watch this guy on Youtube......he goes into detail when cleaning and rebuilding carbs, gummed up fuel systems are the death of so many snow blowers, lawnmowers and the like. I personally only use fresh marine grade ethanol free gas, I use it before it gets old, and I always completely drain my gas tanks and carbs when I store them so that the fuel delivery system does not get all gummed up, also..... I have stopped using gas stabilizer, many may crucify me here for saying that but where I live I have easy access to Marine grade ethanol free gas.
Yeah, I hear ya.Just remember snow blowers requirement maintenance. Most of them are basic in design and you just need to do a few simple things to keep them going for a long time. Learn how to baby your machines and you'll be a happy camper. If you think you just need to gas and go and be problem free, then tell us what you're smoking 🤣🤣🤣 (just kidding).
Shear pins are designed to prevent costly damage to your gear box. Get some extras and learn how to replace them before winter.
🍺Did you buy the machine from a dealer or big box store?
Did you contact them regarding the "missing" shear bolt?
- Got it from Rona, and no I didn't contact them.
I think it probably could have sheared during your first use, but either way you are only out a couple bucks.
Not a prob: it came w/ 2 spares.
I think your new machine is the entry level Ariens Classic with the 208cc engine (approx. 6.5HP)?
It is definitely a step up from your older machine both feature and quality wise. It will process more snow and toss it further, but don't expect that it will "blow the doors off" the old machine performance wise. You went from a 5 hp 20" machine to a 6.5HP 24" machine, pretty close to the same HP to bucket width ratio.
- yeah, here's the thing: the big ass label sez 9.5 ft-lbs... As a rookie when it comes to engines I interpreted that as HP. (Stop with that smirk already; I'm just a homeowner when it comes to engines, okayyyy? LOL) But yeah, you're right (and obviously, catching that bucket ratio shows you know what you're talking about.) So I got suckered (kinda).
Hope you get it sorted out and running well, we just got 12" of wet heavy snow and expect another 12" tomorrow through Sunday.
- Dodged a bullet here in K-town. We got that 6" dump (well, to US it's a dump, okay? lol and just a dusting the next day)
Thanks man. 🍺🍺🍺The goo in the exhaust muffler is the unburned liquid (can't call it "fuel" after it was in the carb all summer) which has now been drawn thru the carb and then cycled thru the engine.
Your problem with the starting is NOT an Ariens issue. Any other brand engine in similar circumstances would result in the exact same manner.
A few four questions-
Does your Ariens' engine have fuel shut off valve?
If so, was this turned to the "off" position over the summer?
- no it wasn't.
Did your previous snowblower's engine have a fuel shut off valve?
If so, did you turn it off every year?
Reason that I ask all this, is because if the fuel was left on or, if there is no fuel shut off, here's what happens: Throughout the summer, the gasoline in the carb float bowl is evaporating off the light hydrocarbons. The carb then allows more fuel to enter the carb, and then the process continues. Eventually, you have a carb full of heavy hydrocarbons which will only burn in a camp fire. Winter gas has a lower vapor pressure and is much more likely to evaporate off than summer gas.
- that's a revelation to yours truly; no kidding. I won't test your statement about heavy hydrocarbons in my fire pit this summer tho'; I'll take your word for it!
Empty the carb bowl, drain all of the gas from the tank that you can, add fresh gas, and then fire it up. You may need to replace the spark plug.
- kept the old plug (cleaned it up all sparkly tho'. OK, I'll confess that I forgot to grab one when I went to get the carb cleaner...) , but followed all your other advice during the repair.
Hope all of this helps.
Thanks man.I got a free Compact 24 from some gals a couple of years abo and they said they hated the Ariens 24 and since I only had one in the past (ST-824) I took it when they tossed it on the curb because it looked like new. After I spent some time on it, the 24 ran so poorly and did not blow snow well like the OP said his does. Well it turned out no matter how I cleaned the carb this engine just wouldn't work so I bought a new carb off Amazon
- after reading this I went on Amazon. I'll be honest, it was bit overwhelming. Sure, I found pretty much identical carbs, but my logic was that I was replacing one crummy carb w/ the same crummy carb. I'll probably be asking 'what's a better carb that fits this model' in the future and suck some more wisdom from you guys.
It's running pretty good now, and was doing a great job last winter.
As far as I'm concerned, it's a crummy carb the mnfr put on this machine to save a couple of bucks.
and we were off to the races. That blower really impressed me after getting it running right, so much so my Son now has it but has not used it in 2 years. Two weeks ago I fired it up on 2 year old gas, after 4 pulls it fired right off, why? because I only use non-oxy fuel in my engines. Clean the carb out and get some good gas in the new machine, it will blow snow.