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Discussion Starter #1
I have a John Deere 1032 snowblower and I have an issue with my auger drive pulley and/or my impeller shaft. When I engage my auger, everything works, however, my auger drive pulley shifts toward the engine about 3/4" and rubs on my auger idler pulley rod (sparking metal on metal). When it is not running, there is some "play" in the whole impeller shaft as it can slide back and forth about 1". Any ideas on what is causing this, is it normal?
Thanks,
Corey
 

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Yea, sounds like the bushings / shims that are inside the gearbox up front are worn out and allowing the movement of the impeller shaft.

As a temporary fix, you may be able to fit some washers behind the impeller to help hold it in place, however, at that point you are already half way into taking the gear box apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice. Just to confirm (I'm a novice), will I need to remove the auger pulley and the whole auger assembly (including impeller shaft to access the gearbox to investigate?
Corey
 

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Yes, you must remove the front bucket from the machine, then remove the pulley, then pull the whole auger/impeller assembly out of the front of the bucket. Most times the hardest part it getting the impeller pulley off the shaft as the rust usually holds on quite well.

This guy has some gearbox rebuild videos on his youtube channel if you search. Most of them are MTD, but it is the same basic process.
https://www.youtube.com/user/donyboy73

It can be difficult to find parts for JD blowers though.

While you are taking things apart, it is a good time to pull the shear pins off as well and make sure the augers spin on their shafts and are not rusted in place as well. If you have grease nipples you can use a grease gun and then spin them around to move the grease. If you don't, then make sure you clean and grease the shafts before putting them back on.

***

Actually, first thing to check would be make sure the whole shaft is sliding back and forth and your issue isn't just the pulley is loose. Don't want to go through all the trouble of taking everything apart if it is not needed. Unless of course you just want the experience and to check on all the bearings and grease everything up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all of tips. I got the auger pulley off, but am having issues removing the "pin" that is set in the auger shaft and aligns with the ID slot on the auger pulley. It seems like it is just wedged in there, but haven't had any luck getting it out. Any tips.
Corey
 

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it is most likely a woodruff key or half moon key. Just put a screwdriver on one edge and hit it with a hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry for all the questions. I got the "half-moon" key out and now am trying to get the whole auger unit free, unfortunately, I can't get it through the auger bushing. It slides through OK until the last couple inches and gets caught. Do I need to try to file down the impeller shaft to make it fit?
Corey
 

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Feel that last couple inches, if a little rough, or the holes, or the keyway are raised even a tiny bit just sand it with sandpaper,and if you still feel anything, touch it up with a file.
Sid
 

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Take 320 grit sand paper and polish up that shaft nice and pretty like. then it should slide out of there like a spruced goose.:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all of the help, I'm learning a lot as I go. I got the bushing off but now am stuck on the augers. The left auger slid right off, but the right one is stuck on tight. I tried some PB blaster, a gear puller, an acetylene torch, a hammer, etc. but no budging. Any thoughts? Is this a lost cause and I should cut my losses? Thanks again to everyone for the advice.
Corey
 

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I've used this process in a five gallon bucket with great results.


This guy is a lot more in depth:

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey Everyone,
I tried the electrolysis, soaking the auger under water up to the gearbox. It seemed to work as I saw bubbling and got 0.1 volts showing on the charger. Is there another way to confirm this is working? After running it for about a day and a half I still can't get any movement on the auger. I also tried heating it and cooling it quickly with a propane torch, but no luck there either. Any suggestions?
Thanks
 

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From my experience, as long as it is still bubbling, it is still working. I have found out though, by "refreshing" the sacrificial piece, by brushing it over a trash can or somewhere you are not getting dirty, then your volts or in my case amps.

It appears, that as the sacrificial piece loads up with "rust," it tends to wane. But after refreshing it, the reaction becomes more vigorous. I have also noticed that the size of the sacrificial piece in relation to the size of the piece that you are soaking, should also be taken into consideration. I started with election sign wire, and moved up to rebar sections.

This may take more time, depending on the level of corrosion that you can not see.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm using rebar but don't see a ton of bubbling, should the bubbling be obvious? I don't see any rust in the water or building up on the rebar which makes me question if it is working.
 

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Yes, tiny bubbles that should be obvious.

Could it be the connection?

Can you get the clamp to bite onto the opposite end of the auger axle?

Might try moving it around, until you see it reacting.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm just getting back to this project as winter nears here in Minnesota. I got the augers off and am now trying to get into the gearbox to check everything out. The gearbox is solid and painted yellow, how do I separate the sides to get access to the gears? I removed the 4 bolts holding in the side plate, now there seems to be one screw on it, but not much else. Also, I can see a line where it should separate, but didn't know if I should just start pounding away at it. Any tips are greatly appreciated.
 

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I would think it is just the old gasket holding it together. If you can find a seam a flat screwdriver should pop it right open.
 
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