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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
Been working on my JD1032 since it failed to really run right the first snow the other day. I am on to my Auger flights right now, but I am having a problem getting them off. Am I missing something, or are they rusted on? I took out the shear pins, and have been soaking PB in it. Pic below.

20160125_133618 (450x800).jpg
 

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Thanks guys. Kind of figured. I have been using PB, but I think it is time to step it up to Acetone and ATF. Also, my little blue torch might need an acetylene brother.
 

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Thanks guys. Kind of figured. I have been using PB, but I think it is time to step it up to Acetone and ATF. Also, my little blue torch might need an acetylene brother.
Or at least step it up to MAPP if you're talking about a handheld propane.
That is if you haven't tried it already :huh:

Best bet is heat it up and wait a few seconds and then start to apply the penetrating fluid. Don't do it red hot but hot. As it cools it naturally wicks the fluid in.

 

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thank you all. and thanks for the reply JT in my pm! Going to start a new thread with the rebuild of this monster. NOT going to be a stock fancy boy rebuild. going to be a working machine with some cool add ons.....because i can.
 

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Been poking at the flights off and on this morning. Got a bottle jack and some chain and started applying pressure. Homemade penetrating oil, heat, pressure.....nothing. ugh! I will win.....hopefully.
 

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Wow, good luck!

Could you try rotating them, rather than attempting to just slide them? Something like sticking a 2x4 through each auger, holding one 2x4 steady, and using the other one to twist the auger on the shaft?
 

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It may be nothing but old grease that has dried. My toughest ones were nothing more than that. It seemed that with Gilson had applied some sort of lube on the shaft that had staying power. Over the years that grease would dry to form a gummy bond. With all of that surface area it can be a formidable bond. I have needed to prop a MAP gas torch on there and let the whole thing heat soak for half an hour. The with a 3/4 inch gear puller and a special jig I use to attach an air hammer will slowly get it to creep from the shaft. Advance penetrating solvents can help liquefy some of this stuff but it's a long way in.

Pete
 

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Thanks guys. I got back at it after a break and really heated the crap out of it. You could see rust colored penetrating oil come out the top/end (nearest the bottle jack). I have been using ATF/Acetone mixture...so it goes in red...heats and comes out rust. Lots of heating/banging/etc. Oh, yeah, still not apart.
 

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For what it is worth. On the most stubborn augers I had I found that too much heat works against you.

I heated the heck out of a set and it wouldnt budge. After a few hours of heat/hammer/puller work. I noticed that after an immense amount of heat it wouldn't move but as it cooled a little I could tighten the puller and it would move a bit.

So I let it cool then applied heat but not concentrated in one area and not glowing. Once I figured that out they were off in about a half hour.

My theory, if you apply too much heat the auger tube heats up and expands then transfers heat to the auger shaft and that expands. You end up where you started with no heat.

The idea is to find the sweet spot where the tube is heated enough to expand away from the shaft a bit but not so much that everything expands.

Maybe it will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have been actually going with that idea. Not glowing red, but gentle heating to hit just the auger and not the actual auger. Trying to expand the auger, not the shaft. More snow today, early dismissal.....maybe another attack on it.
 

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As was said, i think you really want a temperature difference between the two parts, not just making them both hot, since they are both the same material.

You could leave the whole thing outside overnight, to make it all cold. Then go along the tube of the auger with the torch, to try expand the auge tube, more so than the inner shaft itself.
 

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I have removed a couple of sets of stuck Ariens augers. I have to say that they were some of the toughest fights I have ever had with machinery; and I have been fixing salt-water-use boat engines for more than forty years. I made a hybrid, heavy duty puller, using 1/2" steel plates and long, grade 8 1/2-20 bolts. However, like has been said, I noticed that too much heat didn't help. Oxy/Acetelene didn't help it to move. I finally just stuck them in a corner and kept putting a spray of PB Blaster down the shaft, every time or two that I walked by it. I also would tap around the tubes with a hammer. After about two weeks of this, I set up my puller and used two Mapp gas torches at once. They finally started to move but fought me all the way off.
 

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I've used this method, with a five gallon bucket, doing one side at a time. It will pull all the paint off, and you will probably need to do it in an area that won't freeze. And of course there will be the question of what to do about the naked steel this time of the year.

 

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These are all good ideas. I hope one of them works for you. I had exactly the same problem on my 726. (see my posts) Eventually gave up and cut the one remaining stuck auger lengthwise all the way down. Thought the unit was toast. A freind at work was kind enough to provide welding skills and I finished it off.
The point is: Don't give up, It's a machine worth saving.
Wish I had one as a stablemate to my JD.
 

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There has been a lot of good advice in this thread. But there is another rusted-on-augers thread at the moment, here:
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/ariens-snowblowers/85601-st824-auger-usted-shaft.html

I realize yours is already taken apart. And you've applied a lot of force so far, with no success.

But if you have some deep, heavy snow around, you could try something non-destructively. Reassemble the machine, but remove the shear pins. And use it to clear the heaviest snow you can find, hard and fast. It's possible the torque on the augers, from the snow, plus the vibration, might get them to spin on the shaft.

This method would have been easier to try before removing the augers assembly, of course. And there's not the slightest guarantee it would work.

But if you were running into other roadblocks, it could be something to try. If nothing else, if a storm came, you could use it for snow-removal purposes, just with the shear pins removed. Clear your driveway, and possibly coax some movement out of the augers at the same time.
 
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