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i bought a used snowblower and discovered when I removed the shear pins that the augers are frozen.

I put a long pipe wrench on it and applied quite a bit of pressure and it did not only not budge, it didn't turn. 2 questions, if the auger handle was not pressed down, and I turn the auger by hand or with the pipe wrench, why doen't the auger and impeller not turn? The augers do turn when I start the snowblower, and the augers turn when I turn the impeller by hand.

It is an MTD and I was thinking of removing the 12 or so bolts on each of the side panels of the auger housing and using a gear puller, possible with some angle iron against the auger blades, and pull the auger off sideways, out and down the shaft. Any problems with that scenario?
 

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To make sure i get this right, are u asking why the assembly will not turn by hand... the gear ratio will not allow the auger to be turned by hand, u should be able to turn the impeller by hand which will turn the auger. the augers should spin freely without the shear pins installed. But if they Are sized on the shaft, Try some heat and DW-40 on the auger tube might break it loose, if not the assembly will need to be taken out of the bucket and other methods applied.


-efisher-
 

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must be a older model if you can unblolt the bucket sides, my Snapper has the bolts also, Yes you should be able to do that but be very careful not to pull the shaft as you could damage the gearbox, This will save you from having to remove the pulley, But if you have it this far already you should just pull it and replace the bearing, If the auger is that rusted the bearing can't be in much better shape, have to change the auger bearing on one this week myself with a similar issue of rust. Except I can't get the wheels off the axle.
 

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I was in the same position as yourself, the previous owner never broke a sheer pin touting the Yamaha quality, turns out both augers and the impeller were rusted in solid. The best approach would be to remove the side panels, tip the machine on an angle and liberally spray the auger shaft channel with PB Blaster or similar rust busting catalyst. Switch sides, spray again. Try the puller if you have some means of gripping on to it. If it doesn't budge, try a little Map gas. I used propane and was only able to pull one auger off despite repeated applications of PB Blaster, heat and brute force, the other had to be taken to a machine shop.

My guess is the reason you're not able to turn the augers by hand is a result of increased friction from rusted parts, worn bearings, parts out of alignment, dried seals, and perhaps old auger gear oil. As efisher said, the gear ratio makes it difficult to turn while the impeller can be turned easier which in turn rotates the augers. I was barely able to turn mine, if at all as they'd bind.

I'm not sure how the MTD models differ from my older Yamaha YS624 but during rebuild everything, including the new bearings, was generously coated with cold weather snowmobile/snowblower calcium based grease to displace any moisture and to prevent future rusting. New seals and synthetic oil was used in the worm gear casing. I'm now able to easily turn the augers which in turn spin the impeller.
 

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It sounds like you have 2 questions going on here.

1) Augers are frozen to the shaft, it's locked to the shaft without shear pins. You suggest getting a puller on the exposed auger shaft and that is correct. You want to fixture it so you are pulling right down near the tube otherwise you will bend things badly. Your problem is one or more of the following 3 and maybe more.

  • Rust: Bare unprotected metal over time will rust and rust represents growth of the parts. That growth can form a powerful bond. penetrating il and heat are your friends.
  • Hole deformation: The shear pin passes trough the holes in the auger shaft and core tubes. Depending on the material strengths the pin can hammer the hole and cause steel to rise, usually from the shaft, wedging against the ID of the tube. heat and a puller and air wrench may get it to move, Dress the holes with a file afterward to create some relief.
  • Dried grease: For me this is the most common. a film of lubricant remains between the tube and shaft but the lube has dried up to form a gummy paste. this past along the length can lock the parts together just like the 2 above problems. heat to soften the gunk and a puller to creep it off can get it apart. Clean and lube afterwards.
All of the above benefit from using heat. this can ruin seals making fresh seals necessary to complete the job.



2) You cannot back drive the system by turning the augers. At best this is difficult. You are back driving at a ratio of something like 10 or 12 to 1. Also, if the auger is disengaged so you are not also back driving the engine you may be applying an auger drive brake adding to the load.



Fully disengaged, a good efficient oil bath worm drive will back drive with firm boot pressure on an auger tip.
 

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There is a brake on the auger and if the auger lever is not applied you will be fighting the brake.

As also said above you are fighting the worm gear ratio which is very hard to back drive.

You need to free up the augers from the shaft or you risk damaging the gears. Your sheer pins are no longer effective while it is frozen.

Use whatever methods you have at hand to free them up. Take it apart if you have to. Apply Heat, penetrating oil, air hammer etc. I have done this before and it is tough. You need to try to rotate it and press/hammer them out. Keep trying to rotate it as you hammer on it to break up the rust.

You will get it. Stay persistent. Good luck.
 

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GEvening Guys, Good conversation.....I've had great luck with PB Blaster* and Air Hammer method. I let the PB soak in for 1-2 hours, then hit it with the hammer along the shaft, next to the supports, on both sides. Spin the shaft 90* and repeat. I go around at least 1 complete revolution. if it's not freed up. soak it again and then more hammer love. I only use heat as a last resort, due to the amount of oil at that point, and of course the paint damage. I also use that process on the wheels, but instead of a hammer head in the air hammer, I use a 12" blunt end shaft. I'll hit along the inside hub, and then along the weld point where the center is welded to the hub, breaking it loose, (hopefully) and pushing it off at the same time. Usually worx, as I've only had to burn off 1 wheel and 1 auger this year. After cleaning, I use Marine grease for lube. GLuck, J
 

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May I suggest: If you take it apart, drill, thread, and install grease fittings on the augers--as some already have from the factory. This way you can keep it lubed and free.
 
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