I’m sure any grease is fine, as long as you do it yearly. If you want a little extra protection with all the moisture the auger is exposed to, a water resistant grease would be preferable. If you do a lot if work (in areas where they use salt on roads) with EOD piles, in the roadway, or clearing areas where cars drip salt water into the snow, a water resistant grease that resists salt water would be preferable.
Auger grease fittings...
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I had one come off my 1971 Ariens sno thro, tried to hammer it back in but it won't hold. So I went ahead and bought another machine for $25 just for its parts.
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Luckily these old ariens can be found for cheap money around me.
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This is the grease I use. It's also waterproof and it also contains anti-sieze to prorect bare steel from corrosion.
Lucas Oil Red N Tacky Grease/10x1(3x3oz) https://a.co/d/2lN2MUD
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Those are pressed in fittings, as they don't have the clearance for a threaded fitting. ... they are usually pulled out over time by using a grease gun that was not released properly and yanked it off. Usually, the holes have been blown out/deformed. They do sell oversize press in zerk fittings, but just putting a zerk fitting in the end of the grease gun and holding it there will usually work fine, or just spray a lube in there as well as the shear pin holes and ends of the augers, and spin the augers, works fine as well, as many don't even have any zerk fittings. You just want to assure that the don't rust weld to the shaft over time from not moving. You want to pull the pins annually to assure you have free movement as well, in order that the shear pins will do their intended job.
Me neither.
It would be nice if they came with a threaded bushing from the factory.
CCMoe
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When I come across a blower with no auger grease zerks, I use a chain and cable spray at the ends and remove the sheer pins and hit it there as well, and then spin it while spraying at those open connection points .... never had one even try and rust weld up.
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... your poor wife .... 😳
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On the rake that the zerk fittings fell off i simply sprayed PB Blaster in the holes as i spun it around the shaft, the other rake i greased using the zerk fittings. recently when i was taking that whole assembly apart both rakes came off the shaft the same, both spun freely. I guess if you're missing the zerk fittings and you spray some type of penetrating oil in the holes during routine maintenance you should be fine.
I was just looking at some parts i have laying around and it looks like you can fit longer fittings if needed, the originals are very shallow. Installing longer fittings would probably work.
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I was just looking at some parts i have laying around and it looks like you can fit longer fittings if needed, the originals are very shallow. Installing longer fittings would probably work.
VAN,
I would think that tubing is thick enough to tap and install a threaded zerk.
CCMoe
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Can always look at the shear bolts to gauge the thickness of everything, assuming the correct ones are installed. Measure from the bottom of the bolt head to the indent where it's designed to shear.
That's what I did last fall on my 1974 10,000 series.
It only makes sense to install a threaded zerk, why have ice chunks knock the pressed in zerk loose until it falls out.
CCMoe
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