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Hello, I guessing it needs an adjustment but why would the auger and impeller continue to spin after the handle has been released?
 

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We are going to need a little more info. If its an old (1970's) Ariens there is an engagement lever for the auger and an engagement lever for the drive if both are in the auger is supposed to run regardless of the hand control.

What type of unit do you have? How old?
 

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impeller..

My 78 Ariens has a spring loaded lever with a brake pad (rubber) on it and when impeller released the pad is suppose to spring back against the big impeller pulley to stop it (I think). when impeller is engaged the lever is forced away from pulley. but mine never stopped either so.. Not sure if they really work or not. I know those pads get wore and/or hard from time as well as spring tension.
 

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Most likely either the belt is too short or the adjustment needs fixed. Most have 2 adjustments, one on the cable/rod and the other on the idler pulley against the belt. If you have the manual that should tell you specifically how to adjust it, or you can look on youtube for videos.
 

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every time I saw that problem with a machine, it was the belt was too short- what he said.
 

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I had the same thing happen with two Hondas I worked on. Went to the dealership with my concerns and talked to a technician. He said a couple of turns after releasing the handle is normal, because everything is running free from the grease and new bearings. If it runs 30 seconds or more, you have a problem. Hope this helps.
 

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Is the belt new? When I put a new belt on mine, I had to pin the handle down and let it run 20 minutes or more to wear in the belt a bit.
 

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Probably not your issue, but I had this happen on a Ariens 724 over the summer. One of the belt cover screws was missing. I discovered the screw I replaced it with was too long and was pushing the idler bracket in. Doh. Screw was only an inch long. I made it a half inch long. I almost didn't catch it because I had removed it to look at the belts and idler to see what happened.
 

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One other suggestion, make sure you have the correct belt type! I just went to the school of "hard knocks" with the same issue.
I'm doing the Honda engine swap in another thread, same machine but older.
A stock belt for that machine if it is the same as mine is a 35" belt (Snapper 7015152YP). A standard 4L350 will fit but will not clutch properly and just keep going. You need the 4LK350 same exact size but it is designed with more cloth in the belt to allow it to slip when the tension is released. That's why OE belts are a good idea!!
There is also a bell crank that the idler is mounted to, the bottom has what they call a tube brake, (short chunk of 5/16 hose) I smoked mine with the standard belt, parts places want $12 for it but any good 5/16 reinforced fuel hose will do. If yours is spinning with the handle released you can bet the "tube brake" is toast.
 
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