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Discussion Starter #1
So I initially thought I had a slightly seized auger but now I’m guessing I have another issue going on. When I take out the shear bolt on the left side auger(looking at from front of bucket) the auger housing is hard to turn for about 10 revolutions then frees up. Put the pin back in and remove same thing. Seems like theirs a good sized gap from the piece that shear bolt goes through and auger. When tightened it pulls them together. A piece of concrete was hit from previous owner and did shear pin. Augers spin fine normally and make no noise? I’m worried if I use the blower I’ll hit something and that shaft won’t move to break the pin. Any ideas?
 

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if this is a Honda then take augers out. takes 5-10 minutes.

remove impeller pin
then remove 4 side bolts on both sides of housing. if you have a 928 you also have to remove 2 bolts on top of auger gearbox that hold the bracket.

then slide whole auger assembly out.

i bet the auger gearbox shafts and the where they fit into augers need to cleaned , reamed , etc. you can remove impeller and clean that out too and the apply antiseize grease to all shafts.

you can also inspect side bearings and replace or repack with grease while your at it. unless the auger itself is tweeked or bent ( which you can bend back with some large locking pliers ) they should run a lot smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
FYI I removed side bolts and sprayed kroil and anti seize in while spinning augers. Once i got them spinning free today their was anti seize coming out where the shear pin goes. Seems like it’s something with putting shear pin in and something being off. Does my pic look normal orangputeh?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just don’t get why every time I put the shear pin in and take it back out it spins hard till I spin it a bunch of times. Seems like something with the gap between the auger and where the bolt goes thru. I’m by no means an expert on this stuff so all your help is appreciated.
 

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Perhaps you are cranking down too tight on the shear pin and crushing the augur? On most blowers the pins use locks nuts, and you only tighten to just snug, not gorilla tight . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It’s possible. I tighten both sides till they stop. Right side their is no gap and left side their is and the auger and bolt mount pulls tight. Maybe on the left I should just make snug. Bolt would basically be even to 1 thread tight, don’t know if that would come undone...
 

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Shear bolts should only be done up finger tight. You should be able to turn them in the holes after you are done tightening them up. The idea is that the bolt carries the torque from the internal shaft to the auger rake at the point of contact between the bolt and the rake pipe. If you mash the auger pipe tight with the shear bolt, and basically squeeze the auger pipe onto the internal drive shaft, you are defeating the purpose of the shear bolt. You may also be deforming the auger pipe.

If you have some weird dragging going on now, you should probably disassemble the auger assembly and find out why. Maybe there are some burrs in the inside of some holes or some part of the auger pipe is flattened. You might just need to clean the iinternal drive shaft of old grease and crap, then relubricate it and reassemble everything. Guessing at what might be causing it will probably not get you as good an answer as actually taking it apart and seeing what is going on.

Make sure you add grease to the auger drive shafts through the zerk fittings while the shear bolts are out, and then spin the rakes on the drive sharts to spread the grease around. This is simply to keep water from creating rust inside the auger pipes and seizing them to the internal drive shaft. Also, add grease to the shear bolts when reinstalling them.
 

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Shear bolts should only be done up finger tight. You should be able to turn them in the holes after you are done tightening them up. The idea is that the bolt carries the torque from the internal shaft to the auger rake at the point of contact between the bolt and the rake pipe. If you mash the auger pipe tight with the shear bolt, and basically squeeze the auger pipe onto the internal drive shaft, you are defeating the purpose of the shear bolt. You may also be deforming the auger pipe.

If you have some weird dragging going on now, you should probably disassemble the auger assembly and find out why. Maybe there are some burrs in the inside of some holes or some part of the auger pipe is flattened. You might just need to clean the iinternal drive shaft of old grease and crap, then relubricate it and reassemble everything. Guessing at what might be causing it will probably not get you as good an answer as actually taking it apart and seeing what is going on.

Make sure you add grease to the auger drive shafts through the zerk fittings while the shear bolts are out, and then spin the rakes on the drive sharts to spread the grease around. This is simply to keep water from creating rust inside the auger pipes and seizing them to the internal drive shaft. Also, add grease to the shear bolts when reinstalling them.
ya, that's what i said.

he wants an easy fix....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Shear bolts should only be done up finger tight. You should be able to turn them in the holes after you are done tightening them up. The idea is that the bolt carries the torque from the internal shaft to the auger rake at the point of contact between the bolt and the rake pipe. If you mash the auger pipe tight with the shear bolt, and basically squeeze the auger pipe onto the internal drive shaft, you are defeating the purpose of the shear bolt. You may also be deforming the auger pipe.

If you have some weird dragging going on now, you should probably disassemble the auger assembly and find out why. Maybe there are some burrs in the inside of some holes or some part of the auger pipe is flattened. You might just need to clean the iinternal drive shaft of old grease and crap, then relubricate it and reassemble everything. Guessing at what might be causing it will probably not get you as good an answer as actually taking it apart and seeing what is going on.

Make sure you add grease to the auger drive shafts through the zerk fittings while the shear bolts are out, and then spin the rakes on the drive sharts to spread the grease around. This is simply to keep water from creating rust inside the auger pipes and seizing them to the internal drive shaft. Also, add grease to the shear bolts when reinstalling them.
ya, that's what i said.

he wants an easy fix....
I said I didn’t know much about the auger assembly on these snowblowers. Yes I would prefer the easy fix. It’s unfair to assume everyone is as mechanically inclined as you and can take apart an auger assembly and trouble shoot every situation. I came to this site to gain some knowledge about this snowblower because I had some questions about it and wanted to care for and maintain the machine. When I have a day to tackle the job I will have to pull everything apart and go from there. I’ve never heard of shear bolts being finger tight on a Honda. YouTube videos about replacing Honda shear bolts say the opposite that you should tighten and the auger and shear bolt block or whatever it’s called will pull together. I put a pic up with my post asking if their is supposed to be a gap there. I still don’t know why there is but if the bolts should move that’s how I will tighten them. Sorry I’m only going by what I know.
 

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I said I didn’t know much about the auger assembly on these snowblowers. Yes I would prefer the easy fix. It’s unfair to assume everyone is as mechanically inclined as you and can take apart an auger assembly and trouble shoot every situation. I came to this site to gain some knowledge about this snowblower because I had some questions about it and wanted to care for and maintain the machine. When I have a day to tackle the job I will have to pull everything apart and go from there. I’ve never heard of shear bolts being finger tight on a Honda. YouTube videos about replacing Honda shear bolts say the opposite that you should tighten and the auger and shear bolt block or whatever it’s called will pull together. I put a pic up with my post asking if their is supposed to be a gap there. I still don’t know why there is but if the bolts should move that’s how I will tighten them. Sorry I’m only going by what I know.
I apologize if you took my remarks the wrong way. i have run into so many people that want an easy fix and then make things worse and then want me to fix their problem. Now if the augers were tweeked that may cause that gap. maybe it is something else. That gap is NOT supposed to be there. If it is not fixed you will just keep breaking shear pins. I do not just finger tight shear pins. I keep them tight.

What happens when they are loose is they break easily and they elongate the holes and make matters worse. I am not a Honda certified mechanic so if one is on this forum maybe they can put their two cents in.

Maybe post a picture of the entire auger assembly and maybe we can see something obvious. It has been my hard learned experience to take the auger assembly out and do things right so you will be good to go for several seasons and have no more problems.

Your description of the problem was rather good and that is why I suggested taking the auger assembly out instead of just using penetrating oil. The hangup you mentioned is a concern. You do not want to have a seized auger if the shear pin breaks. That force has to go somewhere and it is usually to the auger gearbox where the case can maybe crack and then you are looking at a really expensive repair.

It's really very easy if it's a Honda.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I said I didn’t know much about the auger assembly on these snowblowers. Yes I would prefer the easy fix. It’s unfair to assume everyone is as mechanically inclined as you and can take apart an auger assembly and trouble shoot every situation. I came to this site to gain some knowledge about this snowblower because I had some questions about it and wanted to care for and maintain the machine. When I have a day to tackle the job I will have to pull everything apart and go from there. I’ve never heard of shear bolts being finger tight on a Honda. YouTube videos about replacing Honda shear bolts say the opposite that you should tighten and the auger and shear bolt block or whatever it’s called will pull together. I put a pic up with my post asking if their is supposed to be a gap there. I still don’t know why there is but if the bolts should move that’s how I will tighten them. Sorry I’m only going by what I know.
I apologize if you took my remarks the wrong way. i have run into so many people that want an easy fix and then make things worse and then want me to fix their problem. Now if the augers were tweeked that may cause that gap. maybe it is something else. That gap is NOT supposed to be there. If it is not fixed you will just keep breaking shear pins. I do not just finger tight shear pins. I keep them tight.

What happens when they are loose is they break easily and they elongate the holes and make matters worse. I am not a Honda certified mechanic so if one is on this forum maybe they can put their two cents in.

Maybe post a picture of the entire auger assembly and maybe we can see something obvious. It has been my hard learned experience to take the auger assembly out and do things right so you will be good to go for several seasons and have no more problems.

Your description of the problem was rather good and that is why I suggested taking the auger assembly out instead of just using penetrating oil. The hangup you mentioned is a concern. You do not want to have a seized auger if the shear pin breaks. That force has to go somewhere and it is usually to the auger gearbox where the case can maybe crack and then you are looking at a really expensive repair.

It's really very easy if it's a Honda.
It’s ok I can understand if you’ve fixed a lot of people’s shortcuts that can be frustrating. I’m not looking for the easy way. If I don’t feel comfortable pulling it apart I’ll take it to a dealer to get looked at. The machine is a 928 wheel model with very low hours. Prob around 15. I will attach a pic. Everything looks fine except for the block not being tight on the left side. More then likely I will just take in to a tech since I don’t have the know how to troubleshoot if something is wrong
 

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It’s ok I can understand if you’ve fixed a lot of people’s shortcuts that can be frustrating. I’m not looking for the easy way. If I don’t feel comfortable pulling it apart I’ll take it to a dealer to get looked at. The machine is a 928 wheel model with very low hours. Prob around 15. I will attach a pic. Everything looks fine except for the block not being tight on the left side. More then likely I will just take in to a tech since I don’t have the know how to troubleshoot if something is wrong
wow. just 15 hours? the right side looks perfect. can not see the left side so good. the augers don't look bent to me but can not tell from this angle. is this a HSS928 or HS928?
 

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It’s ok I can understand if you’ve fixed a lot of people’s shortcuts that can be frustrating. I’m not looking for the easy way. If I don’t feel comfortable pulling it apart I’ll take it to a dealer to get looked at. The machine is a 928 wheel model with very low hours. Prob around 15. I will attach a pic. Everything looks fine except for the block not being tight on the left side. More then likely I will just take in to a tech since I don’t have the know how to troubleshoot if something is wrong
wow. just 15 hours? the right side looks perfect. can not see the left side so good. the augers don't look bent to me but can not tell from this angle. is this a HSS928 or HS928?
Yeah it’s in nice shape. It’s a hs. I cut my teeth growing up on a hs55 so I look at this machine as the pinnacle of the hs wheeled units. Not to mention it’s the last year of the Japan made units. I know what I have and that’s why I want to fix it the right way.
 

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Yeah it’s in nice shape. It’s a hs. I cut my teeth growing up on a hs55 so I look at this machine as the pinnacle of the hs wheeled units. Not to mention it’s the last year of the Japan made units. I know what I have and that’s why I want to fix it the right way.
The first time I took the augers and impeller out of my HS80 it only took about 20 minutes or so, and that included extra time dealing with a blown impeller bearing. As @orangputeh said, it's an easy job on Hondas and even easier on the HS928 than on your old HS55; everything comes out and goes back in very logically. If there's something hanging up the rotation, it should be pretty obvious once you have it apart. Don't be afraid to tackle this job.
 

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The first time I took the augers and impeller out of my HS80 it only took about 20 minutes or so, and that included extra time dealing with a blown impeller bearing. As @orangputeh said, it's an easy job on Hondas and even easier on the HS928 than on your old HS55; everything comes out and goes back in very logically. If there's something hanging up the rotation, it should be pretty obvious once you have it apart. Don't be afraid to tackle this job.

@tabora. what do you think is causing that gap on such a low hour machine.? If something was hit I am thinking the inside cross plate of auger maybe was bent out? How can that be bent back in if that is the case?

I was also thinking if the the end bolts were loosened ( which he already did ) and then retightened uniformly maybe that may close that gap? ( also loosen the bolts on top of auger gearbox connecting the support bracket? )

I have seen this gap on other machines. usually that cross plate on auger is bent out. the fact that the OP mentioned that the auger does not spin freely suggests that that left auger was tweaked somehow.I agree with you that maybe they should be removed for proper inspection.
 

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Tough to diagnose this issue without pulling the auger rakes from the auger shaft. Really need to pull the rakes from the shafts, inspect the auger tube opening and auger shaft for any distortion, clean the inside of the auger tubes with a plumbers steel bristle pipe cleaning brush, clean the auger shafts with 00 Grade Steel Wool, wipe the auger tube clean with brake cleaner on a paper towel attached to a wooden dowel or screwdriver, wipe the auger shaft clean with brake cleaner and paper towel. Blow everything clean with compressed air. Apply anti seize to auger tube and shaft, and reassemble the unit. I torque sheer pins the same way I torque oil drain plugs on automotive oil pan.... hand tight plus 1/4 turn.
 

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:iagree: I think all of us agree that it's tough to diagnose this fully without removing the auger assembly. In my experience on several brands of blowers, once the assembly is out it's easy to compare the parts and see what is out of kilter, and then repair the culprit. I think @orangputeh is correct and the cross plate may be bent. Easy to fix that (hopefully) with the auger on the bench.
 

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:iagree: I think all of us agree that it's tough to diagnose this fully without removing the auger assembly. In my experience on several brands of blowers, once the assembly is out it's easy to compare the parts and see what is out of kilter, and then repair the culprit. I think @orangputeh is correct and the cross plate may be bent. Easy to fix that (hopefully) with the auger on the bench.
It's funny you mentioned this. I am servicing my son in laws 928 that has the same exact problem with both sides. looking straight down on auger you can see how that cross plate is slightly bent out from him hitting something. The auger blade was also bent almost flat over. Pulled that back over with the assembly still in the bucket and was able to get cross plate almost straightened also using a pry bar.

The augers and impeller spun freely with the shears removed so did not feel it necessary to remove them. Not sure what the problem is with the original poster because of course we can not see in person.

The trouble with this gap is you can probably get a shear pin in there and force the plate over but they will break more frequently .
 

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It's funny you mentioned this. I am servicing my son in laws 928 that has the same exact problem with both sides. looking straight down on auger you can see how that cross plate is slightly bent out from him hitting something. The auger blade was also bent almost flat over. Pulled that back over with the assembly still in the bucket and was able to get cross plate almost straightened also using a pry bar.

The augers and impeller spun freely with the shears removed so did not feel it necessary to remove them. Not sure what the problem is with the original poster because of course we can not see in person.

The trouble with this gap is you can probably get a shear pin in there and force the plate over but they will break more frequently .
First time I pulled the auger rakes on my HS928, I wasn't expecting the auger shafts to be so short (wasn't a member on this site yet :wink2:). I just assumed the auger shafts ran the entire length of the auger tubes. Shorter auger shafts mean less "contact area" for the augers to seize to the shafts, however I wonder if full length auger shafts would provide more strength and rigidity to the auger tube and crossplate in the event the auger encounters a solid object?? Gotta think the hollow auger tube and crossplate would be more prone to "deflecting" or distorting when striking a solid object?? Still think that's the most plausible theory relative to the original posters question.
 

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First time I pulled the auger rakes on my HS928, I wasn't expecting the auger shafts to be so short (wasn't a member on this site yet :wink2:). I just assumed the auger shafts ran the entire length of the auger tubes. Shorter auger shafts mean less "contact area" for the augers to seize to the shafts, however I wonder if full length auger shafts would provide more strength and rigidity to the auger tube and crossplate in the event the auger encounters a solid object?? Gotta think the hollow auger tube and crossplate would be more prone to "deflecting" or distorting when striking a solid object?? Still think that's the most plausible theory relative to the original posters question.
the old Honda's HS50-55-70=80 have the full shafts and then they changed to the stubbies for some reason. The older ones are built like tanks. Everything is thicker. You see less bent augers on them even though it happens. With the impeller kit I put on my old 80 I prefer it to my 828 or 928. Just more solid.

I have yet to see seized augers on the older ones but am sure they exist . They also use impeller shear pins as shear pins for the augers and they do not break as much.
 
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