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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, I know this issue is in the threads here somewhere because Ive skimmed over it once already, but now that I acctually need the info on it I cant find it.

Anyhow.... I was taking apart the auger on my Gilson so that I could grease the shaft and replace the sheer pins and after many pain staking hours of drilling and pounding out one of the old pins and getting one of the augers off, I found the other to be rusted on pretty good, it wont even budge.

What I would like to know is if some one can tell me the best way to go about getting the auger off the shaft with out damaging either of the two. Ive tried spaying some blaster in it but that seemed to fall pretty short.

So if anyone can point me to some threads, videos or anything that might help me out on this, would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks
Cody
 

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Most people use heat and a shop press.

Some people use pipe wrenches to twist them.

Some people wedge 2x4s in the rakes and twist them.

Some people use a floor jack and a chain wrapped around it.

I used 2 jack stands to support the rake and then a sledge hammer on the shaft. Make sure you put something on the end of the shaft so it doesn't mushroom. I used the original bolt that went through the side of my Ariens.

Most people use a combination of everything above and probably something else too.
 

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Rusted Augers

Very timely as I'm starting to work on a auger assembly from a parts machine that the augers are froze to the shaft by rust from being left outside in the elements too long by the guy I bought it from.

I'm just starting to work on it, so it's early. One thing I did do is make a driver I can put pressure on the end of the auger over the shaft. It's a piece of 1" i.d. pipe I welded a cap on, thinking when it's ready I can slip that over the shaft and dry driving the auger a little (one end on a block of wood so it's outside the chassis) and maybe knock it loose.

One thing I've seen relating to old machinery before on badly rusted parts is possibly setting up an electrolys tank. Have it deep enough that one whole auger will fit but not so deep the gear case is submersed and see if that will loosen it up, then flip it and do the other side. Right now it's just in the thought stage but it may be an option if required.

Right now I'm just smacking the auger shaft every so often with a hammer and shooting some PB Blaster down the end gap to see if it will work in. Next will be trying a torch and heat it up a little. After that if it's still frozen, I'll have to decide what to try.

I don't have a hydraulic press, but I've tried a gear puller with a bearing splitter on it and so far it's refusing to budge.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Right now I'm just smacking the auger shaft every so often with a hammer and shooting some PB Blaster down the end gap to see if it will work in.
Paul

Yeah Ive been doing this as well with no resault. If I had access to a torch this would be a fairly easy job from what Ive seen and read, but... Im stuck (no pun intended)

Like I said before, there is a thread here some where showing how to get the auger off with out heat but I cant find it. Oh well.

Thanks Paul, let me know what you have come up with

Cody
 

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Heat

Cody

All I have right now is a propane torch with a rose tip (think that's what it's called) to spread the flame out so you can heat something in a wider area. I've also been looking at a MAPP gas torch if propane doesn't get hot enough. From what I've read, it's supposed to actually get hotter than a pure acetaline (spelling?) torch like plumbers use. I really don't want to mess with a oxy/acetaline torch and having that around for the little time I would use it. I also thought about taking it out somewhere and and it heated and pressed but for now I'd rather tinker with it myself.

I haven't ruled out the electrolys tank either, but you have to be careful of aluminum etc as it can destoy that. This auger has an aluminum gearbox so that's why I could only do half at a time till I can get one auger off the shaft. Still thinking on that one.

That parts machine only cost me $20 (minus motor) and I've already gotten that much in parts off it. The only reason I'm tinkering with the auger in the first place is I'm thinking about swapping it out (if I can get it all fixed up) with the auger assembly on a 10hp 32" 3 stage I bought. That one works just fine now but the auger width is too wide to get through the garage door between the back yard and the garage. I have another 7hp with a 26" auger and it fits through the door just fine so I'm toying with the idea if I can swap out the auger assembly on the big one I may keep that one rather than sell it.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ive been spraying some spray lube on it all week, hoping that it will drip between the auger and the shaft. As of right now, nothing, but probably wednesday next week Ill actually have time to get out and mess with it and see if it comes loose.

Cody
 

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Finally got some movement

Well I've been working on this for a long time and I finally got some movement on the augers. Shooting PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and WD40 between the end of the auger and shaft almost daily along with the hole the shear pins go through. I made a 2x4 stand that has a hole for the shaft in it so the shaft is vertical. Well I've heated the auger sleeve with a mapp & propane torches, shoved a pair of 2x4's through it and suspended it then using a piece of steel on the end of the shaft, beat on it with a hammer - nothing.
Last night I added some angle iron on the 2x4's and got a bigger hammer. With it suspended, I got about 1/4" of movement on each auger section so they're loose at least.
I'm getting use of a hydraulic press, rig them in there and use the torches to heat the center shaft and will try to press the shaft out.

That's where I'm at right now. At least with movement I think it's salvagable. The now exposed areas are solid rust. I'm sure that's from the PO leaving it outside for a year or two.

Long as I can get it apart, then it's on to rebuilding the housing next.

Just providing an update for others. Hope it helps.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I've been working on this for a long time and I finally got some movement on the augers. Shooting PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and WD40 between the end of the auger and shaft almost daily along with the hole the shear pins go through. I made a 2x4 stand that has a hole for the shaft in it so the shaft is vertical. Well I've heated the auger sleeve with a mapp & propane torches, shoved a pair of 2x4's through it and suspended it then using a piece of steel on the end of the shaft, beat on it with a hammer - nothing.
Last night I added some angle iron on the 2x4's and got a bigger hammer. With it suspended, I got about 1/4" of movement on each auger section so they're loose at least.
I'm getting use of a hydraulic press, rig them in there and use the torches to heat the center shaft and will try to press the shaft out.

That's where I'm at right now. At least with movement I think it's salvagable. The now exposed areas are solid rust. I'm sure that's from the PO leaving it outside for a year or two.

Long as I can get it apart, then it's on to rebuilding the housing next.

Just providing an update for others. Hope it helps.

Paul
Hey Paul,

Thanks for the update on this. I still havent got mine to move butas I said before I dont have a torch to heat it up and I think that could be my biggest problem right now. Building a stand for it to sit on is pretty genious. Im honistly surprised I hadnt thought of that seeing how Im constantly building contraptions for holding things while I work on them. I guess Ill have to get busy on it. Again thanks for the update. Keep me posted.

Cody
 

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Rust

Cody

If you look for a torch, be aware that a MAPP torch definitely heats more and faster than a propane torch does but probably not as hot as an ony/acetaline torch would. Along with that, I got a Bernzomatic and don't get the cheapest one (around $40, model 4000 IIRC). That one looks like it only has a on/off valve as far as I could tell so it's all-or-nothing. I ended up getting the next higher model (8000 IIRC) which was about $50 but it has a flame adjustment valve on it.

I found you just can't slide the auger into a hydraulic press (if both augers and gearbox are still on the shaft) because the horizontal pieces of the press have a welded insert between them making a single unit. I have some heavy angle iron I think will work in it's place so when the time comes, I can slip those through the auger and then clamp them onto the press on the press pins. I found HF has a 12 ton press on sale right now for $99 (they have a store local to me), and it's something I'll use again so I picked one up to work on this one.
Once I get the augers off, I'm thinking about running a 1" drill through the center of the auger shafts to help remove any rust along with and deformation that occurred to it in the past from hammer banging.

If you were closer to Mpls, I'd say drop by some weekend and we could make a day out of beating the crap out of auger assemblies :D

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you were closer to Mpls, I'd say drop by some weekend and we could make a day out of beating the crap out of auger assemblies :D

Paul

Yeah you could bet that if I was close, Id be there. LOL. My neighbors dad has a good torch and as done a lot of work on snowblowers, (he built a twin engine 36 hp blower a few years ago) I just have to get some free time to get out there and get to work on it. I really appreciate the invite, and like I said if I was closer Id be there.

Cody
 

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Update

Latest: they're off. I worked on the auger assembly this weekend and was able to get the 2 auger sections off the shaft today. I had to use a hydraulic press - found out no matter of heat would have helped. Between the PB Blaster, WD40 & liquid Wrench, it had soaked the whole length of the shaft. Problem there was a little ridge near the end of the one end of the auger shaft plus the junk in the augers had the consistency of caulk, it was almost glued together.

I could not use the hydraulic press 'out-of-the-box'. The Apron on the hydraulic press where the arbor plates fit on this one has 2 pieces of metal welded between then so big stuff won't fit between them. Instead I used a pair of 1 1/2" heavy walled square tube in place of the press apron that came with the press. Slipped the rectangular tubes through the auger and rested the outside support/braces on them then set them on the pins in the press frame. Raised the auger alittle and slipped the arbor plates under the support/braces on the outer end of the auger. I then was able to press the shaft, as soon as I got movement then it all downhill from there. One side I had to press about 3" and the shaft fell loose, the other was only about 1"-2".

Now I'm going to disassemble the auger gear then I can start doing cleanup on them and start rebuilding the auger housing.

That's it, hope it's helped.

Paul
 

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How do you ensure that you don't damage the gear box with the 2x4 method. Isn't there chance of damaging the gear box since that is what the shear pins are for?

Also, I noticed many use WD-40 or PB Blaster and then added heat...... what do you do about any chance of fire/explosion since those products are flammable?
 

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Personally I like heating and spraying in the middle of the back yard. In the summer months there's a garden hose available while in the winter there's snow. You can definitely have a flash when using an aerosol can or something flammable.
Yup I know it's an old thread but it's useful to someone asking a question.
 

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Sorry everyone.......I should have been more clear...... I meant that after people use some kind of lubricant and the find it doesn't work, they will then use a torch some time later to help loosen things up. I didn't mean at the same time. I'm wondering why even after some time this doesn't cause a problem (explosion/fire).

Good news is that we got the augers off the gear shafts.....
 
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