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Discussion Starter #1
How do I go about replacing this black plastic spacer on the auger shaft of my Craftsman (247.88830) ? Shown in pic with hose clamp around it. :confused:
 

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unbolt the side plate pull off the auger. polish up the shaft with 320 grit sand paper. yank it out put the new one in. since you are already dirty you might as well do the other side too. I would also check them seals on the gear box.:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool: LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP!!! MAHALO
 

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This is very easy. Shouldn't take more than about 2 minutes... *sarcasm*

Remove the clip holding the chute crank on and slide that out of the way.
Remove the belt cover.
Unhook the belt.
Unhook the spring from the idler pulley and handle that tightens the belt.
(I pulled mine off after separating the scoop and drive sections.)
Remove the 2 bolts on each side holding the front scoop to the drive section.
Tilt the handles back and lift the scoop out of the pivot.
Tip the front scoop section flat on the ground and remove the bolt holding the large pulley on.
(I used an axe handle through the chute to hold the impeller.)
Remove the 2 screws on each side of the augers.
Slide the whole gearbox assembly out the front.
Remove the shear pins and slide everything off the side as needed.

If you happen to remove the augers on both sides don't mix them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
unbolt the side plate pull off the auger. polish up the shaft with 320 grit sand paper. yank it out put the new one in. since you are already dirty you might as well do the other side too. I would also check them seals on the gear box.:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool: LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP!!! MAHALO
What would be the reason for polishing the shaft?
 

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I'm just curious. What do these spacers do? Is it just a filler? The auger is pinned to the shaft, so it's not going to move inward any. I guess it would make it easier to find the shear-pin holes if they sheared. Any real reason i'm not seeing?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is very easy. Shouldn't take more than about 2 minutes... *sarcasm*

Remove the clip holding the chute crank on and slide that out of the way.
Remove the belt cover.
Unhook the belt.
Unhook the spring from the idler pulley and handle that tightens the belt.
(I pulled mine off after separating the scoop and drive sections.)
Remove the 2 bolts on each side holding the front scoop to the drive section.
Tilt the handles back and lift the scoop out of the pivot.
Tip the front scoop section flat on the ground and remove the bolt holding the large pulley on.
(I used an axe handle through the chute to hold the impeller.)
Remove the 2 screws on each side of the augers.
Slide the whole gearbox assembly out the front.
Remove the shear pins and slide everything off the side as needed.

If you happen to remove the augers on both sides don't mix them up.
Still need to do this. Kinda nervous about taking it this much apart. Maybe you could tell me more about doing this such as -
Is it really as straight forward as you make it sound?
Is reassembly difficult?
What could happen if it's not replaced?
 

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I think they are just there to keep the augers lined up in case you break a shear pin. I suppose the auger could slide over and get tangled on the gear box or something. Being as you have a new machine it should be pretty easy to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh. I should get new seals?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
unbolt the side plate pull off the auger. polish up the shaft with 320 grit sand paper. yank it out put the new one in. since you are already dirty you might as well do the other side too. I would also check them seals on the gear box.:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool: LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP!!! MAHALO
Can it really be done like this? It sure sounds easier than the other way.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It is not leaking.
 

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Just a suggestion follow what Shryp described to you as you will find out you won't be able to pull from the front only and yes get new seals. Good Luck
 

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if you are looking for an easy fix, I would just leave it all intact and remove the broken plastic piece. It looks like the rough edges could damage the gearbox seal if you leave it, so if you decide not to replace it, at least remove it. If you ever need to replace a broken shear pin and you cant find the hole in the shaft, remember to slide the auger outward.

this is all contingent on it having no other purpose. I cant see any reason for it to be there.
 

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Ok....if you want a lazy fix.

1.Measure the shaft diameter.
2. find a 2 piece shaft collar of that diameter. Try McMaster Carr, Grainer, Zorro etc.
3. Cut the plastic spacer out.
4. install the split shaft collar up against the auger.

You can probably get an Aluminum one for around 10.
 

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2 mins, Shryp?
It took me longer then that to read it.:D
 

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He doesn't need to mess with any seals to get to that bushing. Just pull the 'T' of the gearbox out and slide the augers off of one side and put it back together. No seals to damage. Also, this machine is only like 2 years old so it should come apart easily.
 

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Bushings

He doesn't need to mess with any seals to get to that bushing. Just pull the 'T' of the gearbox out and slide the augers off of one side and put it back together. No seals to damage. Also, this machine is only like 2 years old so it should come apart easily.
Do the end panels of the auger assembly unbolt or are they welded on (which I suspect they are). If they bolt on, unbolt them and go from the ends. If welded then you have to pull the augers along with the impeller to gain access to them.

From what little I can see, I suspect they are just some form of alignment bushing. If you know someone with metal working equipment, if feasible I'd see if you can get some bronze replacements made as they'll last a lot longer than plastic ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well upon closer inspection today, I notice that the gear box is in deed leaking. But I wonder if not having the correct oil in it could cause that. Since I've been unable to find out what should be used, I've been using 3-in-1 oil. Maybe it's too thin ?

Any suggestions where I should get the seals from? I also want to get a spare set of cables.

What more do I have to do to replace the seals?
 
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