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Most likely it should have the MTD equivalent of a "00" grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Do the end panels of the auger assembly unbolt or are they welded on (which I suspect they are). If they bolt on, unbolt them and go from the ends. If welded then you have to pull the augers along with the impeller to gain access to them.

From what little I can see, I suspect they are just some form of alignment bushing. If you know someone with metal working equipment, if feasible I'd see if you can get some bronze replacements made as they'll last a lot longer than plastic ones.
Thanks for the advice, HCBPH.

There are 2 bolts on the outside of the scoop on each side. The parts diagram shows it all coming out the front & not being welded. I'm figuring Shryp would know if it's welded or not.

Oh and the reason for replacing it isn't because it wore out. It's because the auger "found" the dogs leash while blowing last year. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Most likely it should have the MTD equivalent of a "00" grease.
If it's suppose to be a grease then maybe the seals aren't bad after all. Right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
But there is no zerk fitting only a blue plastic plug on top so I don't see how I could get grease in there.
 

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Look at the donyboy73 gearcase rebuild videos. He has a Noma and a Cub Cadet/MTD and they both just use a tube of grease that gets squeezed in when you are putting the 2 halves together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks, Shryp. I'm checking that out now.
 

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Gearcase lube

I checked a couple of the manuals I have on some older Craftsman blowers. They list using 30 weight oil in the auger gear case. I've had to rebuild a couple in the past where the PO had used a heavy grease instead of oil. The grease stuck to the sides of the case and was not lubing the gears. If you plan to use a grease instead of oil, I'd use a mix of white grease and some oil so it's kind of a slurry so it will at least flow when it's cold outside (which is obvious when blowing snow).

If your manual lists something, that's what I'd use first. Just some thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Thanks for researching that for me, HCBPH. I appreciate that.

My manual doesn't say anything about that. But obviously something should be in there. It has a small plastic plug on the top. So, I'm thinking it would be oil not grease. Seems to me that oil would do a better job of lubing things in there than grease would.

So, now I need decide...do I replace the seals or not. It is leaking. But I'm thinking that could be due to there being the 3 to 1 oil that I put in there which is probably thinner than the motor oil that should be in there. Your thoughts.....
 

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Gearbox

I did a little looking at a couple of newer machine manuals I have, here's what I think you're going to have to do to fix it.
2 bolts on either end of the housing are holding a bearing with a short sleeve on the ends of the auger rakes, they have to come off. The pulley has to come off then the whole thing should slide out. Then pull the pins, and if they aren't rusted on the rakes should come off the auger shaft. Now you can unbolt the auger gearcase halves and pull it apart. Watch the bushings and seals when taking it apart. Check them over and replacing them is now a good time. If you have to replace the seal or bushing on the impeller shaft, removing the roll pins and pulling the impeller was easier for me. Take pictures as you go along.
Replace whatever is needed then reassemble.

Me, I'd check the bolts on the case to insure they are tight (don't overtorque or you could break them or strip out the holes) along with replacing the oil you have with new 30 wt as yours is too thin IMO. Try it and see if it's sealed up or not. You can always tear it down any time but it's not fun to do if you don't have to.

Good luck

PS - here's one that I had to rebuild that was packed with grease. The bushings and seals were shot in it.
 

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The impeller on my Troy Bilt 2620 had no roll pins. It just slid on over a D shaped shaft.
 

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If your manual lists something, that's what I'd use first. Just some thoughts.
Or try the manufacturers customer service for info.

"00" grease is made to flow. It's almost a grease but not quite an oil. It's used a lot in riding mower transmission since they are used in such a wide variety of temperatures and they carry a lot more stress on their gears.
One place to get it is Oreilly auto parts P/N 7-06612. Usually needs to be ordered and it's a day to get it.

I don't even know what to say about using 3in1 :confused: Thought it was a joke at first. It's way too thin and not in any way a proper lube for this application considering both temperature and load on your gearbox.
If there is any wear at all on those seals that stuff will just all drip out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Dog Leash Syndrome

Thanks again, HCBPH.

Where would you suggest I get the seals from? And would you recommend bushings too?

My whole reason for doing this is to replace a plastic auger spacer that got messed up when it encountered a dogs leash last winter. I kinda enjoy diggin' in to jobs like this. And if it was spring time (when I told myself I would do this & not wait till it's about to snow again), I'd already be doing it. Now, of course, I'm very concerned about something going afoul & it being out of service when I need it. Errrr. I'm really good at being my own worst enemy! :mad::mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Yeah as you found out there really is 3-In-One oil. It was the only thing I had that would fit in the little hole on top of the gear box & figured it was better than nothing. Since then I bought a small oil can.
 

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These videos show the grease.


 
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Misc

Thanks again, HCBPH.

Where would you suggest I get the seals from? And would you recommend bushings too?
For parts, I'd start with Sears. If you can't find them there, then I'd start online. For bushings, if they're loose or seem worn I'd replace them. If you have the thing apart and have to do it later, that means more time and seal etc again. IMO, do it once and be done with it.
 

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There was no doubt that 3in1 existed as I've used it for sewing machines and light lubricating around the house. So much better than WD40. I was just amazed anyone would grab it and use it to try and top off a gear box, any gear box.

When you have gears carrying that kind of pressure on them putting in the wrong oil can take it from just being low and that's ok to diluting the good stuff and causing a failure in the face of the gears metal.
 

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You can get the 00 grease from Stens.

Stens 770-123 Replacement "00" Grease or Snapper 7061017


You could also try NAPA or Tractor Supply.

Hard to think the seals are bad after only two seasons of use. The 3 in 1 oil will flow out of very small clearances.

Some here have used Mobil 1 grease. It is rated down to some very low temperature like -40F.

The plug at the top is not very useful. It maybe more of a vent and or a way to check what is in there.

That instructional video is excellent.
 
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So much for Sears customer support. I sent them an email requesting the proper fluid to use in the gear case and this is the reply:
Josh_S, December 03, 2014

Thanks for the inquiry and for being a valued member.

Originally, I think the gearbox had 80W90 gear oil. You can use any axle grease in the gearbox. I prefer White Lithium Grease. It seems to do better in the cold temperatures.

I hope this helps and thanks for using SearsPartsDirect.com. We appreciate your business.



I was expecting a reply that said XXXX is the recommended fluid/grease and not "I think" and "I prefer".
Due to the temperatures a snow blower operates in I would stick with the 80W90 or 00 grease as actual grease in my opinion is too thick and won't flow. Like Shryp pointed out that it gets pushed to the side. 00 won't do that as it's too fluid.
I do like Mobil 1 synthetic for a lot of lubricating purposes but the gear case isn't one of them. That's my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thanks Kiss4aFrog. I appreciate you checking into that.

Using an oil sounds better to me than a grease but I'm not familiar with 00 grease. I'm thinking though that if I used the oil I'd have to assemble it dry then add the oil. If I went with the grease, I might be able to add it prior to assembly.
 

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The 90w gear oil is a much better lubricant for a worm drive. This is what is used in most industrial applications. The down side it is that it can leak out. You need sound seals. If it leaks out in the middle of a storm you will be pissed. And If you don't catch it right a way there may be some permanent damage to the worm gear.

The #00 grease is considered a good enough lubricant and wont leak out. It has been used in a lot of machines over the years and there is a good history of it working well.

Only YOU can decide what you are willing to deal with based on the pros and cons.

If you do choose to use an oil. DON't use synthetic. It will for sure leak.

Only
 
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