I just purchased the same carb and it was missing the Welch plug on the bottom of the carb. Still have the motor apart so I haven’t had a chance to fire it up. Carb was from Amazon and it cost $12 bucks. Welch plug cost $1.15.Doubt I will ever buy a cheap Chinese carb again.
Price: $12.99 + No Import Fees Deposit & $7.38 Shipping to Canada Details
Sold by Carbour and Fulfilled by Amazon.
Seems to have good reviews, was better price even with US to CAD conversion , but with all the troubles and forwarding the cost of shipping for return, will buy canadian amazon next time. Also much faster took about 10 days.
Did you verify that the carb bowl was correctly oriented with regard to the float hinge? The hinge should be centered on the higher flat section of the bowl. Otherwise, the float can get hung up and either have the needle valve locked open or shut.
Yes opened it, bowl right direction deep end opposite of hinge, has a dimple near the center, float and needle ok moves up and down and hooked up, washer at the bottom good gasket does not leak ...
This thing should start after couple of primer pushes no hassle of any kind.
luck of the draw. have had some poor chinese carbs for Honda until I found a really good USA company with better quality chinese carbs. havent had any problems since.
I have bought Many of them on ebay from Dannwon, $12 or so shipped. VERY Fast Shipping, and I eventually got a bad one. Seller didn't want to bother with a return, and I had another one in 2 days. On another note, You should have spent the extra $2 for the adjustable one.
You are right for the adjustable, didn't know if you could substitute. Was not sure if the jet and rest of the carb was different or adapted to new engine.
Started a thread asking this question and got my answer.
THREE yes 3 in a row over the last month, not one worked,all looked ok from the outside,even marked with the oem name, i have even gotten bad 2 stroke carbs .amazon is like ebay filled with bad egg sellers selling off junk, most of the time your ok, other times,buyer beware.
2 had the idle mixture screw bonded in place .( yes i know many are now preset at the factory and made non adjustable) judging by how far in the needle stuck into the idle port it was fully seated, before the head was broken off. dropping the bowl one didn't even have a drilled out main jet,the extra the junk included, the gaskets were either to small or too big for a smaller or larger motor with smaller/bigger ports . one didn't even fit over the studs ,it was for a smaller motor, filers included in one box i could see there was nothing inside to even work as a filter, one filter the material was floating around loose inside, the primer bulbs who knows what they were made for, fuel hose in one case was simple vacuum hose not double layered vapor proof needed for 10% e gas.
we all try to save money , cheap isn't always good, and knowing this stuff comes from china, i wonder how much is in reality rejects from the assembly line that failed Q control ???
I am still of the opinion that if the existing carb is in decent shape, rebuilding is the fastest/cheapest/most reliable way to get a machine back up the fastest. You *KNOW* what you have fits, and does not have any mfg. defects . . . others are a total crapshoot!
I try to salvage the original carb if it was an adjustable one to begin with, but I've have several flips where the non-adjustable carb was ditched in favor of the $12-15 adjustable carbs from ebay/amazon and they ran perfectly with minimal adjustments afterwards.
What I don't like on the aftermarket carbs:
fuel bowl gasket tend to swell up
the fuel bowl can rust
the welch plug is often missing
If anyone wants a laugh, check out this carb that never should have passed QA:
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