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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, new guy here but not to forums in general.

I have a 30 inch craftsman professional series 247.88830

The halogen bulb is pitiful. Keeps burning out, the bulb isn’t loose and I notice the plastic lense started to melt a little on the top. Plus the chute blocks most the light.

I have done some searching around and I am not totally sure what I want to do. I read the threads about converting ac to dc to use led lights. The end result looks awesome. But I am not totally sure I wanna mess with wiring. The converter looks easy, but I don’t feel like messing with capacitors. Has anyone done a magnetic battery led flood light? Thinking of mounting it up front on the auger shield.

I have been eyeing this light. It doesn’t list the lumens though.



https://www.amazon.com/OYOCO-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Spotlights-Floodlights/dp/B07D7TBVKB/ref=asc_df_B07D7TBVKB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242033512944&hvpos=2o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3028149764164124266&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003022&hvtargid=pla-523710023259&psc=1
 

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I don't blame you at all for not wanting to mess with adding a capacitor. And I don't know why others think it is needed. My guess.....without actually viewing the voltage with an oscilloscope both with and without a capacitor is that a cap will make little difference in the viewed waveforms WHILE a load is connected.

There is one possible shortcoming using rectified power to energize leds. That is the peak rectified voltage may cause shorter LED life.
 

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This works great on my blower. Nice, bright, and portable. See if you can still find one.
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0Myzjr4Ndig
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Is it magnetic?????

500 or 1000 lumens??? They offer both.

IP65 or higher rated????: IP65 Enclosure - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against water projected from a nozzle. IP66 Enclosure - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against heavy seas or powerful jets of water. IP 67 Enclosures - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against immersion.


Cool light!!!
 

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:welcome: to SBF raminator157

If you search on Amazon, Ebay, ... you'll find a lot of the newer stuff runs on ac. Might be listed as CAN bus compliant. They have their own converter built in. Just bypass your halogen bulb and you're good to go. I'd recommend going with a flood light but you can do a spot if you prefer.

Or instead of building a converter you can just get one for $13 off Amazon and you don't need to worry about the LED working on AC . https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-Converter-Voltage-Supply-Waterproof/dp/B00QLDH2C4/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=12VAC+to+12VDC&qid=1578956614&s=automotive&sr=1-25

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Welcome to the SBF from Gettysburg.
 

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the capacitors are not as bad to deal with as you think. they hook up positive and negative just like led lights. they are just used to smooth out the power going to the lights so you don't get a flicker. you can think of them like batteries. they charge up when getting power and discharge when they stop getting power for that fraction of a second as the flywheel spins around. i sometimes use them to to keep my stereo on for a few seconds after shutting the key off on my vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the reply, I did not think to look for a LED light that auto converts it. I have started looking but haven't found much. A plug and play option would be awesome. Is their any other terms I should look for? I see some that say 12 & 24 volts DC. Nothing about AC. Do you know the highest wattage led light Ill be able to use?


Thanks
:welcome: to SBF raminator157

If you search on Amazon, Ebay, ... you'll find a lot of the newer stuff runs on ac. Might be listed as CAN bus compliant. They have their own converter built in. Just bypass your halogen bulb and you're good to go. I'd recommend going with a flood light but you can do a spot if you prefer.

Or instead of building a converter you can just get one for $13 off Amazon and you don't need to worry about the LED working on AC . https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Converter-Voltage-Supply-Waterproof/dp/B00QLDH2C4/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=12VAC+to+12VDC&qid=1578956614&s=automotive&sr=1-25

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As a starting point, you could look up the current halogen bulb, and see how many watts it draws. That should give you at least a point of reference for what you should be able to draw.

Or, if you could connect a multimeter between the alternator and the light (if it has a connector somewhere), you could measure the voltage, and current draw, to figure out your present power draw, if specs on the bulb weren't available.
 

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When in doubt I default to 18 watt. Being that you have a 1141 bulb and they are rated at 18 watts that might be all you have available. Now a 1141 and a 1156 are the same except for amp draw/light output. A stock 1156 incandescent will put out more light but only if there is enough power to drive it. Since yours has the 1141 I'd stay away from the 1156 incandescent.
To me it doesn't look like a halogen. 18 watt is to my knowledge the smallest stator they use. If you post the numbers off the engine we might be able to look up to see what that engine actually has as it could be anywhere from 18 to 60 depending on how it was spec'd to be built for craftsman.

You other option rather than a whole new housing is replacing the bulb with an LED. Looking only at SuperBrightLEDs they have an 1156 that runs on 10~18 VAC, 10~30 VDC. You can run a 1156 LED because it has a lower current draw and would easily stay under the 18 watts the incandescent 1141 would draw.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/1156-led-light-bulb-51-smd-led-tower-ba15s-base-with-lens/4477/
The LED is a little longer than your present bulb so you'd want to make sure you have the room.

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Discussion Starter #11
I guess part of my issue might have been I was using a 1157 bulb. But I still want better light. I am willing to spend some money for a LED flood light or light bar that mounts on the front of the snow blower. If I can get a plug and play. I will get the numbers off my engine tonight.


When in doubt I default to 18 watt. Being that you have a 1141 bulb and they are rated at 18 watts that might be all you have available. Now a 1141 and a 1156 are the same except for amp draw/light output. A stock 1156 incandescent will put out more light but only if there is enough power to drive it. Since yours has the 1141 I'd stay away from the 1156 incandescent.
To me it doesn't look like a halogen. 18 watt is to my knowledge the smallest stator they use. If you post the numbers off the engine we might be able to look up to see what that engine actually has as it could be anywhere from 18 to 60 depending on how it was spec'd to be built for craftsman.

You other option rather than a whole new housing is replacing the bulb with an LED. Looking only at SuperBrightLEDs they have an 1156 that runs on 10~18 VAC, 10~30 VDC. You can run a 1156 LED because it has a lower current draw and would easily stay under the 18 watts the incandescent 1141 would draw.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/1156-led-light-bulb-51-smd-led-tower-ba15s-base-with-lens/4477/
The LED is a little longer than your present bulb so you'd want to make sure you have the room.

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I think you mean 1156 as that is the single contact and the 1157 is the dual contact (tail / stop light).
The thing about going with a bigger/brighter light is that if you can't supply the power to drive the bulb then you might actually end up with less light output.

Think of it like a garden hose. It's only going to pass a set amount of water. Without a nozzle you don't have much pressure at the end. That's like putting a 100 watt light at the end of that stator wire. It never gets enough power to light up fully or light up much. Now if you put a nozzle on the end of the hose ... A smaller bulb will be driven to full efficiency and put out all it can. Upgrading to that 1156 might have been more than the stator can fully drive.
An 1156 is rated at 21 watts and an 1157 is 8/27 watts (approximately).

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I was finally able to track down the stator #951-11961 but it doesn't say on any of the parts sites what the rating of it is :icon_cussing_black: Maybe someone else might have better luck. It might say in the owners/operators manual or sales literature.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/416mtwuauz-0071-247/id-951-11961

Man it's frustrating. You can always do a trial and error. Add (in series) the desired LED to the circuit with your stock headlight and with the hand warmers ON see if the stock headlight stays the same or dims. If it dims you'd need to remove the stock light and you'd be good to just run the one LED. If it doesn't dim you can replace the stock light with a second LED !! That's assuming you use 18 Watt LEDs.

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Discussion Starter #15
So I ended up using the snow blower today. I measured voltage at the bulb plug and I have 20 volts AC. Tatar’s with hand warmers going and no light on.


I was finally able to track down the stator #951-11961 but it doesn't say on any of the parts sites what the rating of it is
Maybe someone else might have better luck. It might say in the owners/operators manual or sales literature.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/416mtwuauz-0071-247/id-951-11961

Man it's frustrating. You can always do a trial and error. Add (in series) the desired LED to the circuit with your stock headlight and with the hand warmers ON see if the stock headlight stays the same or dims. If it dims you'd need to remove the stock light and you'd be good to just run the one LED. If it doesn't dim you can replace the stock light with a second LED !! That's assuming you use 18 Watt LEDs.

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Is it magnetic?????

500 or 1000 lumens??? They offer both.

IP65 or higher rated????: IP65 Enclosure - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against water projected from a nozzle. IP66 Enclosure - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against heavy seas or powerful jets of water. IP 67 Enclosures - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against immersion.


Cool light!!!
Its not magnetic. It's an LED work light. Drilled the top of my bucket and bolted it down using nylon clips and wingnuts for easy removing and recharging. 1000 Lumins. The 1000 Lumin light has been discontinued at Lowes but Walmart sells one, a 1000 Lumin for $15.00. Different manufacturer. Highly recommend them. Worked great for me yesterday in nearly 6 inches of wet stuff.
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Is it magnetic?????

500 or 1000 lumens??? They offer both.

IP65 or higher rated????: IP65 Enclosure - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against water projected from a nozzle. IP66 Enclosure - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against heavy seas or powerful jets of water. IP 67 Enclosures - IP rated as "dust tight" and protected against immersion.


Cool light!!!
I have seen this style come in higher intensities but 1000 Lumins works great for me. Used the flash mode yesterday. Raining. Better viability for safety sake. Gets their attention. Easily recharged with a USB cable.
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I looked at the ones at Walmart. They aren’t waterproof which worries me.

Its not magnetic. It's an LED work light. Drilled the top of my bucket and bolted it down using nylon clips and wingnuts for easy removing and recharging. 1000 Lumins. The 1000 Lumin light has been discontinued at Lowes but Walmart sells one, a 1000 Lumin for $15.00. Different manufacturer. Highly recommend them. Worked great for me yesterday in nearly 6 inches of wet stuff.
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I created an OP on the lights I found on Amazon for $20 after an extensive search. I've included 3 photos - see the arrows. I purchased a set of two bike headlights that attach to the handlebar arms - and the attaching hardware is incuded. They are water resistant (IPX4 - spray nozzle, 10 minutes), 700 lumens each, rechargeable, and can swivel. The battery lasts about 10 hours between charges, which for me is a full season as I only use the lights 3-4 times a season.

If you need more information, let me know.
 

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I created an OP on the lights I found on Amazon for $20 after an extensive search. I've included 3 photos - see the arrows. I purchased a set of two bike headlights that attach to the handlebar arms - and the attaching hardware is incuded. They are water resistant (IP04 - spray nozzle, 10 minutes), 700 lumens each, rechargeable, and can swivel. The battery lasts about 10 hours between charges, which for me is a full season as I only use the lights 3-4 times a season.

If you need more information, let me know.
Ok lets us know!!!! Cool job.
 
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