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Discussion Starter #1
there are a lot of paint choices out there. wondering what people have great success with in matching the iconic "creamsicle" paint scheme of vintage blowers. for those who have several years on their refresh jobs, how is it holding up? before/after pics welcome.
 

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I use on the Ariens, the Rustoleum Allis Chalmers Orange and any white gloss for the wheels.

I choose to use black on engines, as well as handle bars, unless the bars are a good chrome still.

The original older older Ariens used a white like a Vintage white, it was a softer white, not a bright white.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i wonder if ariens ever put out their own touch up paints, or it their vintage color codes are available.

for white, i prefer the soft white over a stark white.
 

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1620 chevy orange, Rustoleum Canvas white
 

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I'm actually in the process of repainting the inside of the bucket, belly and chute since O had to pull the assembly out to replave my impeller. I used Rustoleum Chevy engine block orange $5.44 a can, grey primer under it and rustoleum automotive enamel gloss as the top coat to make it last longer. Shell white, for the white. All paint at 4 to 5 a can, no more. One can covered all of that with a quarter left over on the orange. It beats paying 15 bucks a can from Ariens and its a better paint, high heat enamel to 500 degrees.
 

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since O had to pull the assembly out to replave my impeller.
you should ad some bracing behind the impeller vanes to prevent the vanes from being able to be bent back so far in the future.
 

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you should ad some bracing behind the impeller vanes to prevent the vanes from being able to be bent back so far in the future.
Thats a good idea. I noticed in 1973 they switched to the more modern impeller that ran until the early 2000's. It had braces behind it, to add more support, like you mentioned, but even with one of them, it still would have got bent, I hit a landscape stone about 4 inches x 4 inches in diameter. 70-72 was an in between for redisign for them, they had just upgraded the augers from the old style that used angle Iron bent into a V and the added kickers on the inner augers that came out further an inch and a half and were bent to act as kickers to help kick the snow back to the impeller, but they still had that older style impeller. Were gonna try not to hit anymore landscape stones, thats what really bent that one badly out of shape like that. The rest of them slightly bend over time, but evenly, so it stays balanced and still throws snow well, but when I hit that stone, it really knocked it out of balance, bad. We use these machines commercially, so unfortunately we don't always know where things are hidden. I will say this, these machines are very easy to work on. As soon as you remove the two housing bushings from the bucket, that entire rake assembly pulls right out of their easily without having to break the unit in half and the old impeller slid off like butter after tapping the roll pins out. I put anti sieze on the shaft, so if the impeller ever has to come off again, it won't be difficult. If I didn't go thru the process of repainting all of that, I could have had the old impeller off and the new one on and completely reassembled in an hour, theirs no pulley behind the bucket to worry about fighting to get off. The end of the rake assembly is a splined shaft that slides right into the throw out clutch assembly back their. I was amazed how easy it was the other day when I did the same repair process on my 71", 24" wide machine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thats a good idea. I noticed in 1973 they switched to the more modern impeller that ran until the early 2000's. It had braces behind it, to add more support, like you mentioned, but even with one of them, it still would have got bent, I hit a landscape stone about 4 inches x 4 inches in diameter. 70-72 was an in between for redisign for them, they had just upgraded the augers from the old style that used angle Iron bent into a V and the added kickers on the inner augers that came out further an inch and a half and were bent to act as kickers to help kick the snow back to the impeller, but they still had that older style impeller. Were gonna try not to hit anymore landscape stones, thats what really bent that one badly out of shape like that. The rest of them slightly bend over time, but evenly, so it stays balanced and still throws snow well, but when I hit that stone, it really knocked it out of balance, bad. We use these machines commercially, so unfortunately we don't always know where things are hidden. I will say this, these machines are very easy to work on. As soon as you remove the two housing bushings from the bucket, that entire rake assembly pulls right out of their easily without having to break the unit in half and the old impeller slid off like butter after tapping the roll pins out. I put anti sieze on the shaft, so if the impeller ever has to come off again, it won't be difficult. If I didn't go thru the process of repainting all of that, I could have had the old impeller off and the new one on and completely reassembled in an hour, theirs no pulley behind the bucket to worry about fighting to get off. The end of the rake assembly is a splined shaft that slides right into the throw out clutch assembly back their. I was amazed how easy it was the other day when I did the same repair process on my 71", 24" wide machine.
dusty,

i have to remove the augers on two 10ML60 machines due to the augers being seized to the shafts and not spinning free with the shear bolts removed. it sounds like you are saying removal is easy, and accomplished from the front. is that so? you also said you smeared anti seize on the auger shaft (impeller also?), did you consider installing grease fittings?
 

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I painted my 1986 Ariens and found Rustoleum Orange #214084 to be perfect. I found it at both Walmart and Home Depot.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
seems like the older ariens orange is a deeper color than the brighter orange produced since perhaps after the 10k series?
 

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As I stated, I found the Allis Chalmers Orange by Rustoleum to be spot on for the early Ariens deeper orange.
 

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If your doing a full on restoration, any orange on the darker side will do ..... As no one will really know unless you park it next to an original from that era ..... Otherwise, go with the Allis Chalmers Orange.
 

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dusty,

i have to remove the augers on two 10ML60 machines due to the augers being seized to the shafts and not spinning free with the shear bolts removed. it sounds like you are saying removal is easy, and accomplished from the front. is that so? you also said you smeared anti seize on the auger shaft (impeller also?), did you consider installing great fittings?
Sorry, I wasn't alerted that you commented. My augers were not frozen fortunately, they have been greased regularly, so that wasn't something I had to worry about. But as far as the entire rake assembly itself, yes it comes out easily. Just remove the two bushing and bushing supports from the housing. After that the entire assembly will slide right out of the bucket. Be careful not to scratch your housing pulling it out, if you do, no big deal. Their are already grease fitting on the augers, if they were greased regularly, they should be free, if they weren't, thats when they freeze. As far as the impeller, yea I got lucky mine weren't siezed, they often are. Once you get the impeller off, slathering anti sieze kn that shaft dhould stop that from happening again. As far the augers themselves, your gonna need an oxy acetalyne torch to heat them up red hot and than quench them with cold water to get them off of their. They can put up a real fight. I know guys get tye impellers pressed off at shops, not sure if you can do that with the augers. Start adding a good penatrant into the inside of the augers in between them and the shaft now, something like kroil, let them soak a weak, than hit them with a torch and start tapping them to get them off. Good luck. I had an auger siezed into a Simplicity I had. I just left it, because that is the biggest pita trying to get those siezed augers off their. Good luck!
 

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If your doing a full on restoration, any orange on the darker side will do ..... As no one will really know unless you park it next to an original from that era ..... Otherwise, go with the Allis Chalmers Orange.
I had to pull the rake assembly out to replace my Impellers. I figured while I was in their, now was the time to repaint the housing, belly, chute and deflector mainly for the flow of snow. Snow flows off the shiny painted surfaces much easier than rough bare metal. Its interesting you mentioned the Allis Chalmers Orange, because I have a pair of Simplicity skid shoes from the Era Allis Chalmers owned Simplicity and had the same orange and someone had painted them, I guess they got painted with the housing when they did it, its that same chevy engine block orange on those too, that I painted them, but next time I'll try out the Allis Chalmers Orange. Very hard to tell what is and isn't Ariens, its impossible to duplicate the old pre 1980 Orange anyway, it had lead in it and was a slighly different shade of Orange, but as far as their modern orange today, the chevy engine block orange is like a dead on match. I painted the top of this housing in one section where the original paint was gone. I cant tell where the old starts and the new begins it blended nicely.
 

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seems like the older ariens orange is a deeper color than the brighter orange produced since perhaps after the 10k series?
The older machines had lead in the paint, the last year they used that paint was 1980, in 81 the lead came out. You'll see that many of the machines from the 80's and 90's have the paint peeling off in sheets, you wont see that on any machine built from 1980 and back that lead paint holds up really well, its on their like baked on enamel and it wont come off. I got my first bottle of Chevy engine block orange at Home Depot. After that I ordered two cans from www.GoVets.com delivered to my door for about the same price. It shipped from Grainger industrial supplies. Thats where I get my Orange from now for these machines. The primer and gloss I got at the home depot. I get all my other paints for any machines I paint primarily at home depot, occasionally Lowes.
 
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