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Discussion Starter #1
My neighbor asked me to look at his Ariens Compact 24. He doesn't know the exact history, other than the PO broke it then let it sit for a few years. Once I get the motor checked out, I need to work on the auger housing. It looks like the machine was run for a while without skid shoes, and the bottom of the bucket, including the scraper bar, bent up a bit, causing the auger to hit the bucket and blow out the shear pin. My question is how to bend the bucket lip back down again? Should I pound on it, or try to bend it back a bit? The picture kind of shows how the left auger (right in this pic) comes in contact with the scraper bar screw head, and the other auger does a bit too.

Thanks
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In the center pic the scraper looks fairly level so there should be lots of clearance. I wonder if the auger assembly has dropped. Perhaps lift up on the auger near the side bearings and check for play. The gear box does not have a brace and should not move up and down since it looks like a long auger shaft. Perhaps it needs a brace if there is up and down movement with the gearbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks Town for the reply. There is no noticeable play in the auger assembly itself. Further info: I removed the shear pin from the right side auger (it was bent and tough to remove) and now the 2 augers can freely spin on the shaft. But the impeller is difficult to spin. I have the belt off of the engine, but still on the impeller pulley, and even using the belt by hand it is tough to rotate. I assume there is a problem in the impeller bearing? The blades themselves are not rubbing the housing. I've not yet worked on Ariens auger assemblies.

thanks
 

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There is a brake shoe that touches the impeller pulley. If you press the impeller clutch lever you will release the brake and since the crank impeller pulley does not have the belt(s) attached the impeller should spin unless the bearing is seized or the gearbox has failed. I use a cable tie to keep the clutch applied to use for this purpose and impeller operation with engine running for whatever reason I want to see the impeller or auger operation.

Those impeller bearings can fail and seize so no movement in shaft, or they can wear and get loose to allow sideways impeller shaft movement. Also check the oil level in the gearbox. You cannot see the proper level so you need a dipstick to measure oil level from top of gearbox under fill plug and gasket. Your owner manual will give the distance, mine is between 2.38" and 2.63" from the top of plug opening. The thin red L3 oil can leak from the impeller seal on the rear of gearbox and could seize the gearbox.

Good luck.
 

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Here is a pic of the trans of my machine showing the brake at the very bottom of the pic. The brake is actively pressing against the impeller pulley in this pic. You will see the two rivets that hold the friction material to the brake housing, and just above is the white roller that moves toward the brake when impeller clutch is applied to release the brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks Town, I had forgot about the brake until I went back out. Duh. So I removed the auger housing from the main housing, and then the auger assembly from its housing. Even with the impact wrench on low pressure, I broke 2 of the 4 screws holding the housings together (or they were already broke), and 3 of the 6 screws attaching the housing to the 2 auger shaft (rake shaft) bushings. The impeller bearing seems good, and the impeller shaft seems straight still. Then I finally got a good look at the scraper bar, ugh. Someone had used the machine without a bar for quite some time, then with the bar but without the skid shoes (I think) for a while as well. Anyways, I bent and pounded the bottom of the housing, with the scraper bar attached, to a point where I will test fit the auger assembly again. We'll see how much of a difference I made. The attached pics are before bending.

Couple of questions, how are the auger shaft bushings attached to the shaft, I just see a plastic sleeve and the bushing. Also, I am doing this on the cheap for a neighbor, so should I replace the impeller and auger bearings, or try to reuse? I know if it were my machine, I would replace (and also blast and paint everything). Also, does anyone have a used recoil starter assembly for sale, there was none on this machine, and I hate using the electric starter during maintenance.

Thanks
 

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Which engine does it have ? Can’t tell from the pics, is it Tecumseh, Briggs it the AX which is made by LCT
 

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@PAUL,


I have one of those Workmate tables ... They are the greatest, .. I just used mine today for welding on, as well as grinding on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Daunte: it has the B&S 205cc engine, see pic. Let me know if you need other pics or info.

Oneacer: yep, I love my WorkMate tables. I have 2 full size tables, and 2 table top versions, all bought for $10 or less each.
 

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I have a blower with that same engine, I’ll see if I can find a part number and see if eBay has one, B&S unfortunately rivets a lot of there starters on so to change the pull cord you need to remove the housing which apparently your buddy did NOT want to do, May have to pop rivet the new one on.
 

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.......

Couple of questions, how are the auger shaft bushings attached to the shaft, I just see a plastic sleeve and the bushing. Also, I am doing this on the cheap for a neighbor, so should I replace the impeller and auger bearings, or try to reuse? I know if it were my machine, I would replace (and also blast and paint everything). Also, does anyone have a used recoil starter assembly for sale, there was none on this machine, and I hate using the electric starter during maintenance.

Thanks
The plastic bushings are the wear item so if there is no wear (no movement) then no need to replace. Since they are cheap then your call. On my machine with short auger inside shaft the auger assembly is installed with the plastic bushing inside the outer auger shaft and then the bushing housing installed. The auger assembly is then pushed into the bucket and aligned with the impeller housing noting the bearing impeller side cup is in place with the screw threads fully engaged in the impeller housing. Then loosely attach the auger bushing assembly. Then attach the impeller bearing to the shaft and secure the outer housing to the impeller side housing. You should be able to secure the auger bushing housing and the impeller bearing housing in alignment. Looking at the parts for the full width auger shaft (Pro model) they appear to be very similar to my short auger shaft bushings, so your probable long auger inner shaft would use the same process.

The impeller bearing is very expensive. I have replaced 2 (on my 3rd) on my machine. The first was good after 2 years but I replaced it since the machine was apart. The new bearing from Ariens lasted 2 years and was not smooth running, a notchy feel, so it was replaced and the new one is still working fine after 1 year. So if your bearing is smooth running then I would re-use it since a new one may be short lived. Ensure there is no free play between bearing and shaft. A lot of salt and water buildup at EOD in my area causes snowblower to become a water pump sometimes so likely a reason for bearing failure.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks again Town. As I mentioned, this is my first Ariens 2 stage disassembly, so I appreciate the tips. The impeller bearing seems ok, so I will re-use. I (lightly) pounded off the auger shaft bushings, one came off real easy. I think I will replace the plastic bushings, and maybe the metal bushings too. One of the metal end bushings has 2 broken screws in it, and now 1 broken easy out too. And I know that sometimes the easy out can mess up threads, and I don't want that. I need to ask my neighbor if he is willing to spend $40 on these items.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So as I am looking over the disassembled parts of the auger assembly, I noticed that the auger shaft appears not-centered relative to the gearbox. The left side shaft (this was the side that sheared the pin) has 1-1/2" exposed beyond the auger, and the right side only 3/4". Did something slip when the pins were sheared, or when I was removing the auger end bushings? Maybe when I was pounding on the bushing to remove it?

Do I need to take apart the gearbox now? and did I potentially damage anything or just slid the shaft on its key?

Thanks.
 

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So as I am looking over the disassembled parts of the auger assembly, I noticed that the auger shaft appears not-centered relative to the gearbox. The left side shaft (this was the side that sheared the pin) has 1-1/2" exposed beyond the auger, and the right side only 3/4". Did something slip when the pins were sheared, or when I was removing the auger end bushings? Maybe when I was pounding on the bushing to remove it?

Do I need to take apart the gearbox now? and did I potentially damage anything or just slid the shaft on its key?

Thanks.
The inner auger shaft has a semi circular keyway that the key fits into so the shaft movement is limited to the width of the wheel gear keyway since there are fittings between the wheel gear and the seals. There should be a little movement of the shaft sideways but very small and not 3/4" or more. I think the gearbox has a problem so remove the two outer auger shafts as a first step. Likely you will see the problem then. Good opportunity to take the gearbox apart to get a good look at any internal damage. New front metal seal, two side seals and impeller shaft seal would be required as well as top cover gasket and some L3 oil. Plus any damaged parts.

The damage was likely done when the shear pin encountered something solid so it broke to save the gearbox. I don't think it would be anything you did.

Good luck.
 

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Rather than trying to pound the scraper bar and auger shell back into alignment, try using a larger adjustable wrench. Open the jaws of the adjustable wrench just enough to slip into place and bend the metal back into shape. It will take a little time since you're bending a small area but this technique will give you much more control over trial and error hammer blows.

Some prior owner failed to properly maintain this machine (no skid snows and auger shell wear) so you're wise to carefully check all other major components.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Rod: thanks, I was able to most bend the housing back to level, with a little local pounding around the bumps. It seemed to work, we'll see during assembly. And yes, the machine was run improperly and not maintained. Always a shame.

Town: thanks, I actually was able to very lightly pound the shaft back into place, 3/8" movement which split the difference. I barely tapped on the shaft end, propping the gearbox stationary. From the drawings it appears that this unit has 1 long auger shaft, and the worm wheel (circular gear) is keyed into it. So I think the shaft can slide left and right along the length of the key a bit. Of course the resistance to this movement is that gear against the stationary worm gear from the impeller shaft. Does this make sense?

I drained the gearbox, and from what I can tell everything looks ok. I may still take the gearbox apart if it is easy just to see everything. Thanks again for the replies. Now I know a little bit about Ariems 2 stage auger systems.
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Rod: thanks, I was able to most bend the housing back to level, with a little local pounding around the bumps. It seemed to work, we'll see during assembly. And yes, the machine was run improperly and not maintained. Always a shame.

Town: thanks, I actually was able to very lightly pound the shaft back into place, 3/8" movement which split the difference. I barely tapped on the shaft end, propping the gearbox stationary. From the drawings it appears that this unit has 1 long auger shaft, and the worm wheel (circular gear) is keyed into it. So I think the shaft can slide left and right along the length of the key a bit. Of course the resistance to this movement is that gear against the stationary worm gear from the impeller shaft. Does this make sense?

I drained the gearbox, and from what I can tell everything looks ok. I may still take the gearbox apart if it is easy just to see everything. Thanks again for the replies. Now I know a little bit about Ariems 2 stage auger systems.
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To make sense there would need to be a long keyway cut into the inner auger shaft. That is not typically the case. There is usually a half moon key and keyway in the auger shaft which limits side movement to the width of the worm gear up to the washer and bushing on each side of the worm gear. I don't think there can be an allowance of 3/8" movement of the auger shaft left and right for 3/4" total movement. To get that excess movement I would think the shaft with half moon key would push the washer and bushing and the seal outward. You would see this because the seal should fit snugly into the gearbox.

I would remove the outer auger to get a better look at the inner auger shaft and the gear case seals. Something is not correct there, but I am not experienced enough to know what caused the problem.

Just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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I'm confused by your terms "outer" and "inner" auger shafts. I generally reference the shafts as an impeller shaft and an auger shaft. I think the 24" auger shaft slipped a bit left to right, similar to the motion when removing or installing its worm gear on it. See item #21 on this diagram: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/ariens/sno-thros-and-brushes/920-series-sno-thro/920014-035000-074999-compact-24/gear-case-and-impeller

thanks again.
I referenced the part 21 as the inner auger shaft to distinguish from the outer auger shaft which has the strakes and ribbon to move snow from sides to the middle. This was due to me referencing both parts and did not want to confuse. Wrong strategy obviously.
 

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Daunte: it has the B&S 205cc engine, see pic. Let me know if you need other pics or info.

Oneacer: yep, I love my WorkMate tables. I have 2 full size tables, and 2 table top versions, all bought for $10 or less each.
could not find much used but there is a new one on ebay although not as cheap as I hoped to find but none the less you can get one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pull-Start-Recoil-Starter-For-Briggs-Stratton-900-Series-INTEK-Motor-205cc/273543519160?epid=23023248606&hash=item3fb076dbb8:g:63YAAOSw07lbiB4I
 
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