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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, i am new to this forum and i owned a Ariens deluxe 24 prior to the platinum 24 sho. I am also a gear head and own my own car electronics company with more than 20 years experience. I also already moded the sho with an Led bar and a custom switch and led turn On notification for the led bar as well as led On notification for the OEM heated hand warmers.

So I recently bought the Platinum 24 Sho(2 weeks ago) and we got hit with the biggest snowstorm of the winter last friday (20 inches). So uppon using the snowblower which was quite a treat i noticed that the engine did bog down quite a bit from the snow drift that was very compacted and heavy. I checked the rpm and it reads 3500, in the manual it says it should run at 3600 rpm +- 100rpm, is there a way to set it higher and is it safe for the engine? Will it add more power??
 

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Hi, i am new to this forum and i own a Ariens deluxe 24 prior to the platinum 24 sho. I am also a gear head and own my own car electronics company with more than 20 years experience. I also already moded the sho with an Led bar and a custom switch and led turn On notification for the led bar as well as led On notification for the heated hand warmers.

So I recently bought the Platinum 24 Sho(2 weeks ago) and we got hit with the biggest snowstorm of the winter last friday (20 inches). So uppon using the snowblower which was quite a treat i noticed that the engine did bog down quite a bit from the snow drift that was very compacted and heavy. I checked the rpm and it reads 3500, in the manual it says it should run at 3600 rpm +- 100rpm, is there a way to set it higher and is it safe for the engine? Will it add more power??
Just use it the rings may have not seated good yet..It can take several hours sometimes.
The extra 100 RPM will not cure a bog.
Also your machine has a high impeller speed which consumes alot of power.
You can sneak in a little choke and see if it help the bog...if it does you can increase your main jet size.
I would use the machine for a few more hours before I become concerned as it will probably pick up on power

What was the RPM pulling down to?


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First post needs a hearty welcome..Hearty Welcome from the Burg.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I didn't have the rpm installed when i use the snowblower this weekend. I just checked it today so I don't know how low it gets. Ill probably install the rpm meter and do a run in the backyard just for reference this week and see the results.

I also read a post on this forum that someone bumped the rpm +200 and he said it made quite a difference!
 

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There are 3 holes the governor spring can go into, I believe stock is the center hole, I forget which way increases it but moving to the next hole will bring up the rpm slightly but I would wait until it's broken in before changing it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There are 3 holes the governor spring can go into, I believe stock is the center hole, I forget which way increases it but moving to the next hole will bring up the rpm slightly but I would wait until it's broken in before changing it up.
Ok ill do that, and how long is the breaking in process??
 

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I didn't have the rpm installed when i use the snowblower this weekend. I just checked it today so I don't know how low it gets. Ill probably install the rpm meter and do a run in the backyard just for reference this week and see the results.

I also read a post on this forum that someone bumped the rpm +200 and he said it made quite a difference!
You shouldn't need to increase the speed on that machine.. already has a high impeller speed and a large engine... I guess you always could later but I would be more interested in seeing if the power picks up while stock...it should be a beast..
You can always blow some snow if front of you to give it a real workout and increase your working time.
If you are comfortable with checking your valve clearance you could do that very early on..an exhaust valve with to small a clearance can rob you of power..the exhaust valve heats up during a good workout ..closes the clearance and then the valve isn't closed all the way...the power will return after sitting a short spell



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Good advice here from Shovel and Dauntae.

Another thing you'll want to check after the break-in period is your auger belt tension. This is the belt closest to the auger and is adjusted by moving the tension pulley (refer to your manual for details).

The Platinum 24 SHO is a top notch machine.
 

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Ok ill do that, and how long is the breaking in process??
That's a good question.. I have seen some Chevrolets that didn't really start running until about 100 thousand miles lol
I have driven a Hyundai with 30 miles on it that would accelerate like a champ.
These Chinese small engines we have are actually pretty decent but it can take a few hours as with any engine to seat the rings.
There are many schools of thought on how to do a break in..load the engine and unload seems to be the most accepted for a low hour engine..we want to generate heat.but we may have areas of the rings that are touching the wall and other areas that aren't..that higher friction area is already running hotter ..so we don't want to lug the engine.. you are broke in when the oil film on the cylinder wall is sealing the rings..this may take several hours or longer.

As a side note you can speed up the break in with the fuel method without a load.
Run full throttle... push primer bulb..the extra fuel washes the oil away giving the rings more contact area..it is cooling at the same time....a pump...let it clear out..then give it another pump in a few seconds...a cycle of ten or so... let it run a minute or two and repeat.. five sets of ten is good enough....it's just a way to get a head start with the break in...still needs to be worked however


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Honestly with how much oil these small engines hold, I'd go ahead and change the oil now. I'll bet it looks nice and sparkly! I put a new 8 hp B&S on my blower this season and changed oil after each of the first three "storms" we got here. Which was only something like 30-45 minutes of blowing time and each time the oil cleaned up a bit with less sparkles in it. Pretty much all these engines are splash lubricated so no filter to remove any of this fine metallic swarf and it will just have to get scrapped off by the oil ring on each revolution.


Paranoid.. maybe a little but for the cost of 1/2 a quart or so of dino oil, not a big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I didn't have the rpm installed when i use the snowblower this weekend. I just checked it today so I don't know how low it gets. Ill probably install the rpm meter and do a run in the backyard just for reference this week and see the results.

I also read a post on this forum that someone bumped the rpm +200 and he said it made quite a difference!
You shouldn't need to increase the speed on that machine.. already has a high impeller speed and a large engine... I guess you always could later but I would be more interested in seeing if the power picks up while stock...it should be a beast..
You can always blow some snow if front of you to give it a real workout and increase your working time.
If you are comfortable with checking your valve clearance you could do that very early on..an exhaust valve with to small a clearance can rob you of power..the exhaust valve heats up during a good workout ..closes the clearance and then the valve isn't closed all the way...the power will return after sitting a short spell



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Yes im not quite that comfortable checking the valve clearance a this point, ill let that be for now. Another 5 inches of snow this morning and continuing to fall....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good advice here from Shovel and Dauntae.

Another thing you'll want to check after the break-in period is your auger belt tension. This is the belt closest to the auger and is adjusted by moving the tension pulley (refer to your manual for details).

The Platinum 24 SHO is a top notch machine.
Thanks for the advice, ill definitely check that later on. How long is the breaking in period??
 

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To increase the governed speed of your LCT engine there are two choices:

- move the governor spring from the 3rd hole to the 4th hole outermost hole) in the governor arm which will increase engine rpm by approx 200 rpm.

- move the fixed mount for the governor spring away from the governor arm by a very small amount to get a variable rpm increase.

The governor arm and spring are mounted under the gas tank, so the snow shielding around the tank needs to be removed for access. The governor arm and spring mounting are close to the PTO "front" side of the engine. Attached are some pics of my 414cc engine. The first pic shows the stock setup for my machine that was 3,450 rpm instead of 3,600 or 3,700 rpm. The second pic shows the spring moved to the outer hole on the governor arm which brought my rpm to my target 3,700 rpm.

LCT engines like to run fast so are spec'd to 3,850 +/- 50 rpm, so last year I adjusted the fixed end of spring to increase rpm to 3,900 rpm. I like that setting even better than 3,700 rpm. Produces lots of power to run a 6 bladed impeller and a 3.25" (SHO is 2.75" stock) engine pulley giving 1,447 impeller rpm and an impeller tip speed of 60 mph.

I do not worry about an engine breakin period and LCT do not give any info for that. First oil change was within the month. Back in the day we used to follow the manufacturers guidelines for new and modified engines, but that was a long time ago.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
To increase the governed speed of your LCT engine there are two choices:

- move the governor spring from the 3rd hole to the 4th hole outermost hole) in the governor arm which will increase engine rpm by approx 200 rpm.

- move the fixed mount for the governor spring away from the governor arm by a very small amount to get a variable rpm increase.

The governor arm and spring are mounted under the gas tank, so the snow shielding around the tank needs to be removed for access. The governor arm and spring mounting are close to the PTO "front" side of the engine. Attached are some pics of my 414cc engine. The first pic shows the stock setup for my machine that was 3,450 rpm instead of 3,600 or 3,700 rpm. The second pic shows the spring moved to the outer hole on the governor arm which brought my rpm to my target 3,700 rpm.

LCT engines like to run fast so are spec'd to 3,850 +/- 50 rpm, so last year I adjusted the fixed end of spring to increase rpm to 3,900 rpm. I like that setting even better than 3,700 rpm. Produces lots of power to run a 6 bladed impeller and a 3.25" (SHO is 2.75" stock) engine pulley giving 1,447 impeller rpm and an impeller tip speed of 60 mph.

I do not worry about an engine breakin period and LCT do not give any info for that. First oil change was within the month. Back in the day we used to follow the manufacturers guidelines for new and modified engines, but that was a long time ago.

Good luck.
Thanks Town! Thats an easy way to increase the rpm and power. I removed a few panels yesterday to see how everything looked and saws the governor arm under the gas tank but it only has 3 holes and its set in the middle hole. Do u recommend doing that rpm mod now since the engine is new? Others recommended that i wait a bit for proper engine break-in. I used it maybe a total of 3 hours so far as we had a big snowstorm last weekend(20 inches) and an additional 8 inches today.
 

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Yes im not quite that comfortable checking the valve clearance a this point, ill let that be for now. Another 5 inches of snow this morning and continuing to fall....
Be sure to hook the tach up to see how much your RPM is falling.
You can blow that five inches in front of you and just keep going to increase the load



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Thanks Town! Thats an easy way to increase the rpm and power. I removed a few panels yesterday to see how everything looked and saws the governor arm under the gas tank but it only has 3 holes and its set in the middle hole. Do u recommend doing that rpm mod now since the engine is new? Others recommended that i wait a bit for proper engine break-in. I used it maybe a total of 3 hours so far as we had a big snowstorm last weekend(20 inches) and an additional 8 inches today.
I could not stand the 3,450 rpm because it did not have enough power to blow the snow we get here. I bought my Platinum in mid January and changed the governor spring hole in February once I figured out the governor operation and how to access it. I don't bother with a break-in period, but others do.

I am not concerned with a break-in process for engines because new engine manufacturers (Ford/Lincoln, Jeep and Chevrolet) for new cars do not have a break-in procedure that is worth anything. My 2003 Craftsman blower with 11hp Tecumseh does not even mention a break-in process. The Ariens manual does not cover the LCT engine and refers to LCT for engine spec's. LCT does not cover break-in either, but does recommend changing the oil in a month after purchase/use.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes im not quite that comfortable checking the valve clearance a this point, ill let that be for now. Another 5 inches of snow this morning and continuing to fall....
Be sure to hook the tach up to see how much your RPM is falling.
You can blow that five inches in front of you and just keep going to increase the load



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Ok so i changed the governor hole to the last one before blowing that 8inches of snow that fell last night and today. It boosted the rpm to 3780. Now the 8inches didnt make the rpm drop at all but the snow is powdered snow and not heavy, the end of driveway snowplow pile however was alot heavier and made the rpm dropped to 3400/3500, is that normal?
 

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Ok so i changed the governor hole to the last one before blowing that 8inches of snow that fell last night and today. It boosted the rpm to 3780. Now the 8inches didnt make the rpm drop at all but the snow is powdered snow and not heavy, the end of driveway snowplow pile however was alot heavier and made the rpm dropped to 3400/3500, is that normal?
It depends mainly on the gear that you were using at the time. Sounds like you were using a high gear that would handle the 8" but not the heavier EOD snow at that speed. If that is the case then it is normal.

Did you try different gears for the EOD to better match engine power to the travel speed?
 

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Ok so i changed the governor hole to the last one before blowing that 8inches of snow that fell last night and today. It boosted the rpm to 3780. Now the 8inches didnt make the rpm drop at all but the snow is powdered snow and not heavy, the end of driveway snowplow pile however was alot heavier and made the rpm dropped to 3400/3500, is that normal?
That's governor droop which is normal.
The outermost hole will let the engine droop more before it opens the carb all the way although your no load high RPM is higher...the reason it increases your RPM as the hole isn't in perfect relation with the angle and due to reduced leverage on the spring it simulates a stiffer spring...the first hole for the linkage allows the least amount of droop..an engine is more apt to hunt in that hole..then we have the middle hole for stock..a balance of droop vs the possibility of hunting.
The percentage difference of droop across the holes can be a fair amount.
Governor droop is generally 10 to 15 percent.. with you in the outermost hole it may be a little more.. but let's go with 15 percent..when the engine is fully loaded just to the point of full governor..your engine speed would be 3213 RPM.
As we can see you weren't approaching that number so actually have plenty of power to spare.
I would give it a real good workout..lots of snow and see what the engine pulls down to... If your end of driveway was already deep and tough ... I would say that big engine is fine as it wasn't being pulled to full governor yet.
Remember you have a high speed Impeller which requires alot of power.. so given the same task you will use more power than a typical machine... It looks as if that engine is fine from what I am reading

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