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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At the end of last March I bought a Kraken. Snow was done for the season so I stabilized the fuel, put the battery on a tender and covered it in the corner of the garage. Yesterday, I decided to clean the garage and needed to move the blower. Well, what do you know. She cranks fine but will not start. I pulled the plug and it appears it's not getting fuel. With Monday being labor day, my selling dealer is closed for the long weekend. Before I make the two hour round trip for warranty service next Tuesday, does anyone have any suggestions on something simple I can check at home?

PS: I have servicing dealers closer but bought where I did because they were the only place that had a Kraken to sell. Are dealers generally willing to service machines not sold by them or am I best served making the trip to the selling dealer?
 

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I have not operated a fuel injection unit ... please let us know what the issue was when you find it.

If it is getting spark when you turn it over, and getting no fuel as you state, then I would assume some sort of pump, injector, or other delivery system on board. Doesn't your manual cover this scenario?
 

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There was another long thread here somewhere about the EFI on the Ariens ... pretty much came down to battery, electronic and/or fuel pump issues ....

They sell you an expensive machine like that, and the manual does not cover in its troubleshooting section "No Start" ..... :) lol, a bit odd.

All my machines are carbs, they all get treated fuel, I periodically start all my equipment throughout the year, and I never have issues, and that includes my 60-year-old machines as well ....
 

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I wonder how many years they tested this electronic fuel injection system on these snowblowers in the real-world application before they mass produced them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, I read through that thread. It looks like I'll be taking it to the dealer next week. The machine literally has 10 minutes of run time on it. Loaded it on the truck, unloaded at home and ran it for a bit after installing an hour meter to track usage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Just pulled out the hard copy of the manual as opposed to the PDF I was reading earlier. Here there is a "no start" in the trouble shooting. Most suggestions are beyond obvious but the very last one is, "fuse is blown." The solution is, "see dealer for repair." I found the fuse panel and all are good.
 

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does anyone have any suggestions on something simple I can check at home?
This all should be covered in your manual but.............

So if the ECU(the blowers computer if you will) on your Kraken is roughly the same as my Ariens EFI's ECU that resides up under the dash, there are diagnostic LED's embedded in the potting of the ECU, if its getting power when you turn the key to "on", they'll be blinking in a certain sequence, are they blinking and if so, what is the sequence?

Example when the key is first turned JUST to "on"(you should also hear some R2D2 noises coming from the engine[throttle servo]), the Red LED blinks rapidly a bunch, then the Green LED blinks twice and the Red LED blinks 7 times, this is the dreaded error code 27. This pattern repeats indefinitely while the key remains on.

There are a few Kraken owners here that might chime in on this soon to confirm things..........

Font Parallel Transparency Diagram Document
 

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I wonder how many years they tested this electronic fuel injection system on these snowblowers in the real-world application before they mass produced them.
My understanding is Ariens has been running this FI system in "some of our higher end mowers for many years now before we've added it to our resent blower line up" I never confirmed this with any mower ppl or did much research on this statement and I bought the farm........Might be true, might be half true or I too bough ocean front in Arizona.

I think there might be a bad run/lot of fuel pumps out there.............Seems there is a trend developing there with 7.2V EFI's, but none with 12V EFI Kraken........Yet? BUT, I don't think as many Kraken's were sold as there were with the other types of EFI's, not many in the "test group".
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
OK, just went out and checked. The fuel pump does seem to come on with the key as I can hear it run for a few seconds when I turn the key to position 2. As far as the ECU lights, the red light comes on when I turn the key on, stays lit for about 4 seconds and then goes out. The green light flashes continually and doesn't stop. No servo sounds when key is turned on. I checked both my owners manual and my snow engine manual and neither had anything about the diagnostic leds so I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is normal.
 

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Sounds like the ECU thinks all is well with that green flashing LED....Hmmm

CHECKING TROUBLE CODES
The blinking red LED light on the ECU displays trouble
codes. Its sequence indicates a particular system
malfunction by blinking as many times as the first digit of a
trouble code, pausing, and then blinking as many times as
the second digit of a trouble code.
For example, the red LED will indicate low fuel pressure
(27) by blinking twice, pausing, and blinking seven more
times.(My mistake from post #12's example, I didn't memorize this section)
IMPORTANT: More than one trouble code may be present.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT mistake a constant red (non-
blinking) LED for a trouble code. Red LED will illuminate
when the ignition switch is turned to the “ON” position and
the fuel pump is pressurizing, which may last for up to 30
seconds.
A blinking green LED indicates the ECU processor is
operating correctly, even if a sub-component of the ECU
(e.g.: barometric pressure sensor) has failed. A constant
illuminated green (not blinking) LED indicates the ECU may
be experiencing a low battery voltage condition or need
replacement. See EFI Trouble Code Identification on
page 73.

(Close enough to get an idea)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Very helpful. Thanks! As I said, I can hear the pump pressurizing and the red light stays on while that's happening. So, it doesn't appear to be the pump. Maybe I'll pull the cover and make sure nothing is loose at the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK, I just went out and left the key on for a longer time. Now I'm getting different behavior from the red LED. 7 rapid flashes and two longer flashes. Since there is no code 72, I'm guessing it's code 27 which seems to mean low fuel pressure. So, maybe a bad pump after all?
 

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Yes......The dreaded 27!! So if there is good gas in the tank, battery all charged up and fuel shut off valve (if applicable) is open. The pump might be hanging up......This, I think, is a "thing" now.

I reckon I should go try to start mine.......Geeesh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did some probing based on the other thread and the service guide you posted. The ECU is putting out over 12v on the pump lead. (Green wire.) However, after it passes through the throttle body, there is a 2 volt loss when tested at the pump. 10.24v is what I'm reading at the wires connected to the pump. According to the guide on the 7.2 setup, anything less than 7.2 at the pump says to replace the TB if the ECU is outputting the correct voltage. So, if all things are equal, anything less than 12v at my pump would also mean a failed TB controller. That is unless that the voltage drop to 10.24 is by design. Without a proper service guide on the Kraken, it's hard to say for sure.
 

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I did some probing based on the other thread and the service guide you posted. The ECU is putting out over 12v on the pump lead. (Green wire.)
Yes, the pumps high side feed, that sounds right.

However, after it passes through the throttle body, there is a 2 volt loss when tested at the pump. 10.24v is what I'm reading at the wires connected to the pump.
The wire passes though? it's not a solid wire going from the ECU to the pump?

According to the guide on the 7.2 setup, anything less than 7.2 at the pump says to replace the TB if the ECU is outputting the correct voltage.
I'm not clear why or how the TB relates to the pump's electrical hook ups?

So, if all things are equal, anything less than 12v at my pump would also mean a failed TB controller. That is unless that the voltage drop to 10.24 is by design. Without a proper service guide on the Kraken, it's hard to say for sure.
What in the world is in the TB that there would be a need to run the pump's supply voltage through? Got a picture? I might have to run out to the shed and look at mine, I don't recall this path for the pump.
 
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